Strik3r

i'd say they are about what you should be aiming for... Are you sure you dont want to pay a tuner $150 to do it on a dyno ? Then you can observe how they set the AFR's, and tweak the tune on the road.

im running a t04z in my time attack GTR... 1 bar by low 4k ish, full boost (25psi) around 5000rpm. With an 8800 rev limit, that gives me a fairly wide power band to work with.

Cruising 14-14.5 Under load 12.5-13 WOT low revs 12.5 WOT medium revs 12 WOT high revs etc. 12

*bump* no interest in these ? Guess I will keep them till i need them.

is your BOV plummed back ? if its atmo, then thats your problem. Changing AFM's wont do anything for this particular issue.

-_^ i thought someone would have a fairly immediate answer

I recently had my PFC Djetro tuned (see other thread for dyno graphs). I did some research today and found a few things that were wrong, a few of which have been easy fixes (idle ignition control turned off, cold start (water temp correction) settings not quite right, cranking settings not quite right). I was checking out the injector settings and noticed that the scaling was at 44% and latency correction was at +0.06 ms. I checked the SARD website and for my 1000cc injectors they say 0.97-1ms injector latency.. so the scaling is correct 440/1000 * 100 = 44% but the latency should be (0.97 or 1)-0.77 = +0.20ms to +0.23ms. What effect does this have on my engine/tune ? Can I simply change it to the correct values and go, or will the tune have been done around this incorrect setting and therefore need adjusting? And as a bonus question, what effect would tuning with this setting have had on the cars performance / tune. See http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...hs-t243375.html for the graphs.... I should note that before the tune, i was driving the car (on a run in tune) fine with my spark plugs gapped at 1.1mm (would rev right through to limiter (8800rpm). When we tuned it, we did a full reset and started from scratch. The first thing that happend was that once the base tune was dialed in, the car wouldn't rev past about 7000rpm.. We gapped the plugs down to 0.8mm and suddenly it revved to the limiter... Could this have been caused by the injector latency setting being wrong ? Cheers !

$20k ?? wtf ?? must be worth that in 2nd hand parts alone... gl with the sale, cant take long.

bump

I have a set of Ferodo DS 3000 pads (Product code: FCP1562R) that have never been used (box was opened only to look at the part). I purchased these pads to suit the rear brembo's on an r33 GTR but i believe they will fit onto the rears of a 32/34 GTR as well. Will also fit some Evo's (EVO VIII i think) and also some of the STi Subaru's. (based on my googling). From the website: DS3000 is Ferodo's premium racing compound and has set the standard across circuit racing and the World Rally Championship. DS3000 has contributed to countless wins and podium positions in the WRC, BTCC, STW and is now experiencing major success in Indycar and NASCAR applications. The main characteristics of the DS3000 compound are: reduced bedding in time (approximately 50% quicker than other materials) extremely high friction level (0,62 coefficient of friction) at any temperature or speed higher initial bite predictability, in all conditions, when braking into the corner because of the flat friction curve less off brake between the brake pedal and throttle When using this material with light inertia racing cars, as a general rule, it is necessary to apply less brake pedal pressure than you would normally expect. This will avoid over-braking and the generation of excessive heat in the braking system and discs. You will find most sites say 'For race use / not suitable for road use'. There is nothing illegal about having them on your car on the road, they just don't work as well at lower tempreatures... I have had no issues with them on the streets. The perfect pad for someone who see's the track regularly enough to want a proper brake pad, and will still work fine on the roads. I've been told the RRP on these is somewhere around $350+ depending on where you go. I'll sell for $300 pickup or buyer pays postage. Happy to do C.O.D. or anything else. Item is located on the Gold Coast in Qld, but can be picked up from either GC or South East brisbane. Pm me any questions. Contactable via PM, email (gervase AT allegro DOT com DOT au) or phone (0400 412 580). Cheers.

not sure on air temp. Am going to do a pressure test of the intake side of the engine to check for leaks soon. I can't get a log of that run, but if I go back I'll make sure I have my USB stick so I can dump some log files of any future runs. Fairly sure it has aftermaket valves/springs/etc. Am going to confirm and also check what the cams are set at. Will update this thread once I know more.

prev owner said 400awkw @ 1.4 bar.. but it wasnt a quick tune.... He spent some $2k on tuning.. including running the engine in on the dyno. Said it was a 'safe and rich' tune cause he had had experiences where there was no 'good' fuel available at some track locations. Theoretically i guess if the dyno he was on was reading happy he could have been making what I am now..... still, something has to be holding it back.

Dan from ERD did the build. I'm actually not sure if it has adjustable gears or not, will find out. yea its a 14psi wastegate. The boost controller obviously controls this. im going to check the vac lines running to/from the stepper motor to make sure they arent dirty and will replace the filters too. about 20-21 degrees i believe. *could* be a boost leak, but if you look at the graph, it holds 1.4 bar near the end.. If it was a leak, i know the HKS EVC would just make the turbo spool more and more to try and get the pressure on the intake up to the desired amount. Might measure the pressure output at the compressor wheel and see if we are getting any big pressure drop off. That being said, its still holding 1.4 bar right through to the end, and its holding that boost while the power plummets. Dunno if i can get a screenshot of the maps/timing or not... might chase it up. As far as the turbo running out of puff.. Garret t04z is definately not running out of puff at 1.4 bar . Ya, will prob try dropping the exhaust to confirm its not an issue.. but the exhaust has nothing in it.. no cat, single rear muffler, and the external gate is quite large too, so the effective exhaust size up top is pretty huge.

Went to have the car tuned on monday and ran into some problems. I wont go into details - rather let the dyno graphs speak for themselves, but in essence 1) Can't seem to hold/maintain higher boost pressures. We had the actuator duty cycle set at 65 to produce the high boost plot you can see in the graphs below. When we set it to 75 or 85 it made no difference to the plot (for reference, 85 should have generated about 1.8bar of boost). This COULD be related to the HKS EVC settings. I've since checked the manual and there is a 'Boost Offset' setting that may help us sort this out, but it may not be the problem. 2) Loses power dramatically at *about* 7krpm (someone confirm what 155km/hr in 3rd is ?). You can see a 120hp drop from peak at 145km/hr to about 340hp by 8500rpm. The only thing that was noticed was the CAS sensor output starting to wiggle a bit after 7krpm... but it was staying on the same 2 MAP points and wouldn't pull through them. The 2 map points were VERY similar in terms of inj duty and timing, so its not as if one of them is causing it to go backwards. Car mods: Fully built rb26 (all forged good bits including n1 block) Garret t04z turbo. 3.5" turbo back exhaust with external wastegate venting to atmo (not exactly sure on size of gate - HKS job) Tomei pro cams (270degree, 10.2 lift (i think)) Tomei lifters 1000cc Sard injectors, Sard Fuel rail, Sard FPR. 2*044's from surge tank to engine - PLENTY of fuel. HKS EVC V boost controller Splitfire coils, HKS Twin Power CDI system New NGK Copper plugs - heat range 7, 0.8mm gap (had them at 1.1 but took them down to eliminate that as a cause). and finally PFC Djetro so there is no issue with AFM's here. more mods but i dont think they are relevant... Onto the graphs: the plot that ends up slightly richer in the AFR graphs is the high boost graph. Obviously the car should be making a lot more power (i'd expect to see 550-600hp at 1.7 bar), but what is interesting it that the boost drop off happens long before the big power drop., making me believe its 2 seperate issues although it could be one causing both symptoms. You'll notice that on the low boost (1 bar) run, it held boost all the way yet there was still a big power drop at the end. Any ideas ?

shit just realized Splitfires are up to $650.. i got mine for $565 2 or 3 weeks ago

It is commonly water, but can be caused by other things like dan said.

no, as long as your fuel pressure regulator can handle the flow from the new pump (which im sure it will), it will be fine.

i dont know any people risking a $6-8k forged motor putting out close to 500hp on standard rods.. maybe its a Vic thing ? For the sake of <$1k, its worth the peace of mind. weakpoint was referring to the fact that the block and crank can take 800hp+, and stock pistons will generally withstand quite a bit too (if you replace the rings). Im not saying they will fail @ 350.... but your getting close to the limits imo. each to their own, its your motor ! Regardless, it seems to me that your three quarters of the way through a build. Do yourself a favour, save up a few grand and finish it properly. Rods, cams, port+polish, some other headwork (valve springs) and the fuel system and you can hit 600hp+ safely and it will drive better. Although keep in mind 700cc injectors would be getting pretty high duty cycle to try and push out 600hp... i'd be thinking about upgrading those too (shouldnt cost you much if your happy to sell yours and buy second hand). else, just keep the boost to ~21psi and enjoy your 550 horsies

i'd say he'll run out of fuel before he hits that.. also need some pretty decent headwork to pull that sorta a power figure from a t04z... not to mention that hes running stock rods, which are a known weakpoint in the rb26's if you push any more than about 350rwkw you risk bending a rod. not sure how much that fuel pump can support either... you should be talking to your engine builder/tuner about this.

AAC valve might cause the idling problems, but not the misfire under load.. still worth cleaning it out though. what heat range / gap are you running on your plugs ?

ya, that you think subzero is a good workshop makes your opinion a lot less valid :>

pretty ignorant statement there....

http://www.haltech.com.au/ im not trying to be a smartass.. but your trying to do something that at best is going to be a dodgy work around.. and your going to spend a few hundred dollars doing it. You can get $1400-1500 for that PFC of yours.. Sell it, buy a haltech and run a 3 bar map sensor. You wont look back.

a highflowed turbo should get to 18psi easy. Things to look at: - intake pipe like you said (easy fix, brace the pipe or replace it) - exhaust restriction (collapsed cat) - Problem with the actuator on your wastegate. wastegate pressure is probably around 0.95bar.. so if your not getting any higher, i'd say your gate is opening when it shouldnt be. Check the AVCR settings and the actuator as well.

Royal Purple is very good oil.. on par with the Motul. I run the RP10/40 in my forged engine no worries. As already said though, your engine builder should know what oil best suits your application.