Strik3r

was a great day i really enjoyed the drive.. got a bit sunburnt though nice to finally meet some people in person and see some old friends again. Looking forward to attending more events over the next few months. I have some pics that ill put up tonight.

good car, good price, will sell very quick no doubt. one minor correction, i think the stock GTR 0-100 km/h time is somewhere closer to 5 seconds not 4.3, but I could be wrong

sweet as. mudgeraba meet works out heaps better for me See you all on sunday !

wrong forum mate - this is for whole car sales only. repost in the car parts and accessories forum or hopefully one of the mods will move this one for you.

its not safe. you need a dyno - you have no idea what you are doing to your air fuel ratios. thats the opposite to most people.. usually you want to take a bit out of the top end (4000-7000) because the stock ECU runs a bit rich and when you up the boost/free the exhaust it runs even richer. normally its +'s at the low rpm's and -'s at the top end, but again, this will depend heavily on your exact modifications and engine setup. icemm - there is no point in tuninig your AFC at all without a dyno. you wont get any increased performance without having it done properly on a dyno or at least with a wideband O2 sensor in the car. Leave it all at 0% until you can get it to a dyno - that big turbo will make it tricky to drive around on stock ECU, so keep it off boost till you can get it tuned.

a 'new' one will cost a lot more than $100. (closer to $1000 - thanks Nissan!) 2nd hand you should be able to find them for $50-$100 max i'd resolder it anyway. visual inspection of solder will tell you very little. Resolder it just to be sure and see if it works then. otherwise, could just be borked.

pillar guages are only a safety issue if they impair your vision. normal sized ones (boost guages, etc.) are fine. steering wheel.. bleh fair enough. Pod filter, hes full of shit. i understand why you didnt want to argue too much if you had the other parts of the car that were defectable, but i get pissed off at dumb shit cops handing out incorrect defects.

err.. unshielded pod ? pillar guages ? how exactly are they defects (unless you have a 10" pillar guage) ? also by wheel i assume you mean steering wheel ? Whats wrong with it ?

f**k i love your car choy

im coming - will be at harbour town meet.

standard turbos are ceramic wheels and you shouldnt put any more than 1 bar through them. if you have N1 steel wheel turbos, they can take about 1.4 bar. the GTR's have a boost restrictor you can remove to see an instant 1 bar without the need for a controller, but you may want to get 1 to have more control. There should be a guide on how to remove the restrictor somewhere in teh DIY section.

marry me so i can have it ? i think its legal if we go to tasmania :< hah, one day i'll own one of these. best of luck with the sale mate

yea tbh, id rather save up another 5k and pay ~30k for one with a rebuilt engine.. that way ive got reliabilty and the poential for a lot more power.

p.s. i sent him a PM and got the following reply: just give me a call and i will answer all questions i will take $23000 without rims also 270kilowatts 1 bar boost standard turbos gearbox perfect clutch perfect sound system is kenwood with panasonic colour cd player with remote it is also pre wired for a sub in the boot also does 270kw at the wheels sound right for stock turbs @ 1 bar with no cams ?

i figure $22k for car without rims $2k for some rims removal of stupid guage and installation of boost guage $100 momo steering wheel $200 Electronic Boost Controller $400 and ill prob spend $1k on the sound system total $25.7k for a GTR setup pretty close to how i'd want it.. down the track, $1k for some coilovers i think its still running stock clutch so prob another $1k there once it lets go (though he says current one is in 'perfect' condition)

agreed.. but i can remove the stickers, and he said he'll take $23k without the rims (which means if i squeeze him, $22k). then i can spend $2k on some nice 18" rims.. the other thing thats gay is the giant f**koff tacho and shift light he has to the right of the steering wheel... that'd be going the day i got it.

should i buy this --> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t189591.html

the price is good... pm sent with some questions.

burn motherf**ker burn

he sold it a while ago mate. new owner is on the gold coast.

im curious to know at what tempreature that temp guage starts to move from its happy 'middle' position.

still havent really gotten a response to my question.. sounds like i should try and get a shroud made up or a bracket mounted for the old shroud ? can i get away without one or is it risky ?

its got to be forged internals. that motor wouldnt last 3 months running 350rwkw through stock internals.

well let me put it this way. i have an aftermarket radiator that doesnt fit the shroud. Its been fine so far, even on the hot days i havn't seen the temp guage move (although im well aware it prob doesnt start moving till 100+degrees - not a good temp). so do i: a) keep going as is - from all reports its fine, especially since the radiator i have is better than the stock one. b) get a big thermo with custom shroud made up or c) try and somehow get a new shroud made for the standard clutch fan that will mount to my rad.

why would it run too hot in summer ? shouldnt the fan be able to cool just as well as a clutch fan ?