Strik3r

quick question, i have a series 2 afm which is the 3 pin varient. what exactly do i cut open to get to these solder points ? any pics anybody has would be helpfull.

humm. i dont even have a soldering iron, but i know someone who does and is quite handy with them. will see how i go over the next few days.

yea but the o2 sensor shouldnt cause a hunting idle. also, the jerking and stalling are not explained by a faulty o2 sensor. I cleaned pod filter and reoiled as well as cleaned afm, but i think putting the fresh oil on the pod filter may have been counter-productive (as someone above said). The problem seemed to have gone away, but then after a bit of driving, it came back. Gonna see how it goes, and in the next day or 2 after the oil has dried out somewhat, reclean the afm with the electrical cleaner. I will mention that the AFM didn't seem particularly dirty or anything when i cleaned it, so not yet convinced that that is the problem. Will update with more info over the next few days.

yes, and im tending to think that this is the case. I might also get a POD filter cleaning kit too. Autobahn should have them yes ?

at least read my post before posting mafia a) ive got an SAFC2. b) car has been driving around fine for months since the tune. problem started past few days. c) rich and retard wouldn't affect the car at idle now would it ?

hmm well, its been raining this morning, so havent had much of a chance to examine much, but when it did briefly stop, i went over most of the piping looking for anything loose - didnt find anything. Also took it for a drive and the car behaved perfectly =\ will monitor and update if i notice it again.

nah no one would have touched it, but i will double check that. i know the turbo timer reading isnt worth much, but when all was working fine, it actually seemed to be relatively close to the mark - 14.2 - 14.9 while cruising and as soon as you start pushing it it dropped to 11.5-12 which is about spot on where the tune is. Even if it was wrong then, just the difference in what its reading now indicates a lot more fuel / richer mixtures. Will update with any info i find out tomorrow morning when i have a chance to give it a good look over. thanks for the input so far guys !

if you mean south as far as gold coast, Bill from Burliegh Smash has done some work on my car. good bloke, fair prices, less if u pay cash.

nothing i guess. but if the fuel pump was dying, wouldnt the mixture be lean and not rediculously rich ? Bosch 040 pump. Been in the car for a few years. Can still here normal fuel pump noise at idle. hi spooky not easily.. im just running a poor ol SAFC2. I can get a 30 second window, but thats about it. will try and pay more attention next time its playing up (or get the passenger to do so). doable, although my AFM is in a cold air box, but i can open her up easily enough. Im not exactly sure what you mean by backfire through the intake.. shoot air back out the filter ? i dont think it is.. although i have no sure way of knowing. Nothing sounds abnormal except the exhaust popping and farting a bit from the extra fuel. if i end up finding the AFM at fault, i swear to god im tracking down a MAP based ECU. sick of stupid AFM's screwing up.

fuel pressure test was carried out a few months ago came back AOK. To add a twist, i took the car for a drive just then and it drove perfectly =\. Next time it happens, ill check AFM voltage. That should clue me in as to whether or not its the AFM or a leak... or something else

yea im leaning towards piping because when i check the SAFC Sensor Chk page, the AFM volts seem about right. or at least i think they are right - 1.2ish volts at idle, 2-2.5 under light throttle, 3 when i started to push it a bit. Will go over the pipes as best as i can tomorrow morning and if i cant find anything, will take it down to slide/murnane.

help me ----> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=182064

Ok so this problem started occuring a few days ago, then went away. This morning when i left for uni it was happening for the first bit, but seemed to sort itself out as i got going, but when i came home this afternoon it was doing it all the way home. The problem: Car majorly struggles to even accerate normally. Any attempt to accelerate results in bad missing, surging and jerking. At times I was struggling to maintain 100km/hr. At Idle the revs fluctuate majorly from a few hundred (almost stalling) to ~1500. Car actually did stall on me when i had the clutch in. Car would probably stall if i left it but i obviously try and keep it going by pumping accel. A/F guage is showing car running rich, even under incredibly light acceleration (5% throttle according to SAFC). AFR's in the 12's and 13's at idle, dropping to 10's and 9's when i try and accelerate (even under light accel). Nothing has changed about the car in the past couple of months. other relevant car details: Splitfire coilpacks Iridium spark plugs, 6 heat range gapped @ 0.8 AFM was replaced with 2nd hand one about 4 months ago after the old one was playing up. o2sensor seems to be working fine based on the sensor output on my apexi pen turbo timer. (and afaik wouldnt cause problems this severe anyway). Car runs 8psi boost most of the time, with the occaisional fling of 12psi. If you need to know anything else, post and ill supply info if i can. The thingsI've come up with is: - a possible leak in the i/c piping ? I dont know how or why this would have happened apart from hitting some bumps and jolting it loose. I took a really quick look and couldnt see anything obvious. I'll take a better look tomorrow in better light. - afm playing up again - something much much worse =\ help would be appreciated.

270-280rwkw is considered the 'safe limit'. I'd be looking at doing the internals pretty soon if you like your car

errrr.. its your engine i guess. it would depend on how bad the pinging is and the condition of the engine. Personally I wouldn't be doing any stabbing until its on a dyno.

it went boom and no ones alive to tell the tale ?

i cant remember the exact number, but pretty sure that much power is beyond the capabilities of stock AFM's. a proper tuner will be able to tell you more. i'd be taking it a bit easy until you've checked out the tune. edit: im presuming the previous owner had it tuned to suit the mods that were on there. Like i said, a proper tuner and a dyno will tell you more.

stock turbo ? if so, change tuners cause this one has no idea. The PFC doesn't retard the timing when it detects knocking - only the stock ECU does. You *could* try taking a few degrees of timing out if you can isolate the trouble spots and get your hands on a hand controller, but better off just taking it real easy like nismoid said and letting your tuner sort it out on the dyno. edit: also, if your still running stock injectors, the engine light could be referring to injector duty cycle. Again, if this is the case, change tuners to someone who knows what they are doing with the rb25. 235rwkw is too much for stock injectors. (im not having a go at your tuner - just suggesting some problems. a stock turbo at 16PSI would be feeding a ncie supply of hot air to your engine which could easily cause knocking.)

pretty much 0 difference for stock turbo. And if you upgrade the turbo you'll need a new dump anyway so if you can get the bellmouth cheaper then go for it ^_^

fark me drunk. let me know if you ever decide to sell it

only post of the day ? slow one in whoretown

how is it not working ? have you had it tuned or can you literally not get the car started ?

humm =\ my shroud doesnt fit my new radiator, so ive been running stock fan with no shroud. I dont have a digital temp readout, but needle has never moved from the dummy guage on the dash... i was planning on putting a couple of thermos in but now you've got me worried =\=\=\

tell your tuner to come for a spin with you and show him the problem. Sounds like they squeezed it a bit hard and it needs more fuel or less timing. They should fix it up for you on the dyno for free since you paid for a full tune.