Strik3r

congrats

i think mine is on the way out so i might definately be interested in this. roughly what am i looking at to get it installed ? My car knowledge is limited so self install is out of the question. im still sucking in deep ones trying to phsych myself up to self-install my SAFC2 edit didn't realize how old this thread is. will pm you.

yup.. always better to be safe than sorry.. remember that the knock sensor is just a microphone. Depnding on the mods your engine has, the engine sound will be different. So when you first calibrate your SAFC, you set the base 'knock value (basically, ambient noise) at 1500 and 3500 i think it was. this tells the SAFC what normal values are for your car. If the raw sensor value jumps by (as someone suggested in that other thread) 50 or 60 from base, then your probably getting some knock.

that raw sensor monitor is the 'volume' being heard by the knock sensors.. knock is only determined to have occured when the volume breaches a certain level ^_^ so basically, your sweet someone with more knowledge and exp better confirm this, but i definately seem to remember reading that.

yea your right, he should sell his car and buy a GTR.. let this be a lesson kids, dont break your AFMs cause it COSTS !

good excuse to upgrade your ECU as well

certainly sounds like it good excuse to upgrade to z32 though. Someone with more knowledge might be able to tell you how to test it, but if you have some sort of o2 voltage monitor, that should give you the info you need to know to work out if its broken ?

mmm, sounds like a lot of trouble. Im happy paying $300 for an SAFC2 that should give me +15-20 rwkw and leave it at that.

Im getting an SAFC2 as well this week. Basically, it depends on what power figure your going for. If your happy with under 200rwkw (12psi with fmic,air filter and exhaust should see you to 190+ depending on other mods) then the SAFC2 can map the airflow to trick the ECU to thinking there is less air at certain rev points where the ECU is R&Ring because it thinks there is too much air flow. As others have said, it is only a bandaid solution, but for my purposes, its enough. in direct answer to your question, yes the SAFC2 will stop the R*R but only to a certain extent. As soon as you want to push that power figure past 200 by upgrading turbo and injectors, your up for a new ECU.

jsut be careful - cops will have yet another thing to rape you for if they see it / pull you over for a 'random' inspection.

thats an expensive quote from just car ? im 22 and have full comp with just car for $1100 a year and im driving a '96 s2 gts-t with quite a few mods (which i declared to Just Car and they are all covered...) although i do have the benefit of getting automatic rating 1 since ive been driving for over 5 years and havent had an accident.. still, i'd be calling them and asking if they cant do a better deal for you..

if for whatever reason this still hasn't sold, i'm interested.. will send a pm

obligatory 'do a search' post in fact, i'll link you straight to the thread ---> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=45218 My own 2c: Do the full exhaust first (front and back), then a pod filter with cold air intakes.. after that, you can look at a front mount intercooler and ECU replacement before moving on to turbo and injectors almost forgot: somewhere early on you'll want a boost controller so you can control how much boost your getting. If your not gonna do anything radical in the near future, a cheap bleed valve will do the trick.

i dont think PFC's for the rb25's are as easy to come by as you think... which is why im considering these other options, especially since im only after 200rwkw... will pm slidewize though and see if he can help tho. aside from getting a PFC, are there any other comments/feeback/info about the piggy backs i listed ??

im in a similar boat at the moment and i agree, the information out there is not conclusive... it isn't that easy to find PFC's and your still up for $600 a tune... as long as you dont want much more than 220rwkw, its probably not necissary either. Here are the obvious options as far as piggy back ECU's go - can anyone provide info as to tuning costs for these and any other information ive missed or am unsure about: Apexi SAFC 2 $320 delivered (2nd hand) + 2 saved maps (cruise / performance) + Knock sensor - 12* 2map Apexi SAFC Neo $430 delivered (new) + brand new interface . 16*2 map - no knock sensor - no saved maps Greddy Emanage Blue: $516.51 delivered with harness + 16*16 map + Ignition Control + injector control - no saved maps/profiles (???) - apparently the timing adjustment is not great - has issues with heating up coils (???) Greddy Emanage Ultimate: $722.91 delivered with harness + ignition control + injector control + 2 saved maps with quick flick switch to swap between. + auto tune (not a huge help, but worth mentioning) + extra inputs for mapping of many other car functions - not a replacement ecu Apexi Power FC (included for reference) ~$1200 with hand controller (2nd hand) + complete ECU replacement + complete control over engine - Difficult to source these days - $600 to tune.

dont skimp on your car cover.. i spent $120 on a top of the range one.. it really protects the car instead of just obscuring it from sight. Its particularly great for when you have to park outside. you can go back to your car and the interior is no where near as hot, and you know your paint and interior have been protected.

you cant leave us hanging like that majorstick.... im soo keen to know what happened now

you wont really know for sure until you try. It will depend entirely on how high flowing the exhaust is. If your only running stock boost, i wouldnt worry too much about the creep.. will just give you a nice little kick in the high range

pm sent

...... hahaha another pub hero #team-encore on GameSurge.... if you really feel like being humiliated.

hey i live on the gold ast and i'm interested. i've sent you a pm

90% its your exhaust. Your not generating enough exhaust to drive your turbo at 10psi. put a turbo back exhaust with a nice 3" dump pipe (total cost < $1000) and you'll hit your 10psi no probs. also i hope your not running a stock turbo on 15PSI.. your really pushing the limit there.. i'd suggest no more than 12 PSI.. and you'd really want to have good intake mods to support that... (FMIC + air filter).

he sent me his bank details... im a bit worried here... i thought he was legit but after reading the confusion in this thread im a bit worried...

he said he'd sell it to me as well in pm.................... so thats 3 people he's 'sold' it to. i was getting more and more skeptical....

im with nismoid on this one. All the reading ive been doing and my own experiences with my car lead me to believe that hitting 200 with a complete stock ECU with no piggy back is near impossible. r'n'r will snap you as soon as you try and get the boost up to the pressure required to pull 200 kw. im actually gonna decrease the boost a bit from mine (its at 12ish atm on stock ECU) to try and avoid a really nasty flat spot in at around 4k revs as i think it will give a better speed. like someone said, the KW figure is a rough guideline at best. If your engine is cutting out from excessive boost at 4k revs, you wont be winning any 1/4 mile races. ive got: custom stainless steel dump pipe highflow stainless steel cat Nismo FMIC CAI + K&N pod filter 500hp fuel pump bleed valve set to ~12 PSI on high. and i get about 185 KW