Strik3r

^^ ditto for me

^^^ This recipe for a nasty accident. Accusump + Activation light is same as what I had in mind, though havent worked out quite how to setup a light on it yet. Will have to wait till we have the unit in our possession to set it up. I have one of Paul Ruzic's Engine Monitors that does oil pressure over RPM warnings. As soon as the alarm comes on the sensor that tripped the alarm is displayed in the middle of the screen. If the alarm comes on i know to clutch in straight away and check out whats wrong.

bump - both items still for sale.

bump - both items still for sale.

bump - both items still for sale.

bump - both items still for sale.

bump - haven't had internet for the last week while moving house - pm's replied to. Still for sale.

bump - haven't had internet for the last week while moving house - pm's replied to. Still for sale.

NPC make some of the best clutches around. Their twins are used in 1000+hp cars. I run an NPC single with 600hp no problems !

pretty sure r33 gts-t is push. the late model 32 GTRs (vspec/vspecII), 33 GTRs and 34 GTRs are all pull and the 34GTT is pull as well. Some boxes are easy to convert from push to pull, others are not - i don't know if the 33gts-t one is or not but will find out and let you know.

its an AWD gearbox. You can chop the transfer case off to make it a RWD box but its a bit of work. gts4 box was about $1k in syncro's and bearings, $200 for cryotreating, cant remember how much for seals, and about $300 in labour to disassemble/assemble the gear cluster. I did some of the labour for gearbox removal/refit myself, but you can probably factor in about 4-5 hours remove and refit for the actual gearbox, and then another $200 in oil.

BUMP - a lot of interest and PM's so far, but no deposit ! First in best dressed.

yea it is solid. BUMP - a lot of interest and PM's, but no deposits so far. First in best dressed.

clutch is a solid centre im pretty sure (will confirm and get back to you), but because its a twin plate, there is a bit of give in it. Probably take some getting used to, but once you get the hang of it its not too hard to drive. Pedal is a fair bit heavier than stock, but I was quite happy with it. KM's on gearbox are a bit unknown. Its the original gearbox that was in the car, which has an aftermarket cluster on it. The cluster reads just over 30000kms now and the car reportedly had ~60000km's on it when the cluster was replaced, so 100,000 km's give or take ? I did about 14000kms on it in the 2 years it was in the car. Yea the speedo sender is the unit near the back of the box that has a plug on it. There is a bolt that holds it in place which you undo then rotate the sender and it should just slide out.

Got some gts4 crown wheel and pinions (front and rear) to swap into my diffs to change the ratios from 4.11 to 4.375. To match them, i also got a gts4 gearbox and fully reconditioned it (new syncro's and bearings, cryotreated gears). Swapped it into the car when I did the diffs and was left with the GTR box. Yup, complete from bellhousing to transfer, only thing missing is the speedo sender.

Item: Rebuilt excedy twin plate clutch (NPC) Condition: FRESHLY REBUILT Price: $900 Location: Brisbane/Yatala Took this clutch out of the car when we did the gearbox swap. Had some wear so decided to get it rebuilt and buy a new push clutch to make the gearbox swap easy and save time. Please note: this is a PULL type clutch. If you have a PUSH type gearbox & Slave cylinder you will need to do a conversion to use this clutch. Also selling the gearbox that was in front of this clutch (1997 r33 series 3 gtr gearbox) - Thread -> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/19...ox-t309999.html Discount for buying both (both for $1750 instead of $1900!). Please feel free to ask any questions. Postage is possibly at buyers expense. Pics:

Item: r33 GTR gearbox. Condition: Good Price: $1k ono Location: Brisbane/Yatala Have an r33 GTR gearbox to sell. Gearbox came out of car in perfect working order. All gears shifted fine, no abnormal crunching or grating into gear. Was going to keep it as a spare, but have decided that i'd rather the cash. Important to note: the box does not come with a speedo sender. You will need to reuse your old one or get a hold of one from somewhere else if you want your speedo to work. The box takes a pull type clutch, but can be converted to push quite easily. I am also selling the clutch that was behind this box - an Excedy Twin Plate clutch JUST REBUILT by NPC (IE: as new condition). This clutch will happily hold up to 500hp+ atw. Thread -> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...te-t310000.html. Selling Box + Clutch together for $1750 (saving of $150). Please feel free to ask any questions. Postage is possibly at buyers expense, and given the weight of it i don't think it would be cheap... Cheers

Will it chirp 2nd ?

Federal also recommend 36psi hot too. i drop mine to about 30 degrees cold for my first session, and then adjust depending how hot the day/track is.

yes, there is a breather at the back of the box which is the transfer breather.

hello all. Bit of a strange 'problem' to report. Recently rebuilt a gts4 gearbox to go into my GTR (taking advantage of the slightly shorter gears to match the gts4 diff ratio's i've put in). Used all new genuine syncros and bearings. All the gears were cryotreated for strength. gear set was assembled by a local gearbox mob, and we put the gearset into the housings and the assembled box into the car. Used nearly a full bottle (1 gallon) of Redline Shockproof Lightweight oil (had a bit left in the bottom). Gearbox worked perfectly, all shifts are silky smooth, no dramas at all. Did some driving and put the car back up in the air. Noticed a fair bit of gearbox oil around the bell housing/gear housing and thoughtwe'd just overfilled it a little. Cleaned it up and did some more driving. More gearbox oil ended up around the housings. Pulled the gearbox out, the housings off and the gearset out and inspected everything. All looked normal. Gearbox went back together, back in the car, and we carefully filled it so the level was a cm or 2 below the filler plug. Ran new breather hoses up into the engine bay into a container so we could monitor the fluid the gearbox was putting out. Took it for a spirited drive, came back and checked - no fluid. Drove home and out to the track the next day and noticed about 150ml in the container (little to no boosting, no hard driving). Thought it might still just be a bit of extra fluid, so didn't worry about it. Did a few sessions at the track and no more fluid was added. Drove home and then down the highway and back home today and noticed another 150ml in there. All the while, the gearbox is driving perfectly. no noises, no problem shifting/holding power etc. Its spat out somewhere between 250 and 350 ml so far from when we put it in the car and filled it last, so i guess it could still just be a bit extra fluid, but just wanted to see if anyone had any ideas/had experienced this before. I'll continue to monitor it and if it stops putting out fluid, i'll know it just doesnt like to carry as much oil as some other boxes.

*bump* Car is running again, so am able to take serious buyers for a test drive if they wish. PM me if your genuinely interested.

pics of your sister or ban.

Talk to Dan @ ERD. He got me my ferodo pads, and im fairly sure he can get the AP rotors too. http://www.erd.com.au

It depends on how serious you want to be about the track work I guess. I've found that with medium hard semi slicks (595RS-R's) it can be difficult to maintain a high enough corner speed to keep the turbo in its happy zone (4000pm+). Sometimes you need to go down to 3500 or so and its just a bit doughy down there. But then again, its a turbo that will support a low 10 second pass, annihilate almost everything on the street / at dyno comps, and can still hold its own around a track, particular one with long corners. My focus for the car is shifting from a tough all-rounder to a more serious track car, so im looking at downsizing the turbo or going back to twins.