Strik3r

bump. this is a good price for a good turbo. I've had a few pm's asking if the price is negotiable - short answer no. Your looking at well over $2500 to buy this new with the surge porting. a $1k+ saving for an item in perfect condition is a pretty good deal.

bump - this item is still for sale. Had some interested people, but no one quite ready to buy. I was originally hoping to be able to take people for test drives, but still waiting on gearbox parts, etc. so this wont be possible as I want to put my new turbo on in the next week or 2 and the car wont be ready to drive before that. Pm me or call on 0400412580. Cheers

The only thing i'll add to that is that at high speeds, poor thermo setups can actually impede air flow, therefore causing overheating issues around a circuit. The shroud is only important if your going to be in traffic often, but if you can go back to the stock clutch operated fan, you may find that your thermo's are actually causing the problem. If i read what you wrote correctly, your thermos are blowing back towards the front of the car through the radiator ?? If so, then thats probably your issue. Fine for when you are stuck in traffic, but when you are actually moving they are actually stopping the air from rushing through your radiator. If you can turn your thermo's off when your racing, as long as they are able to free spin, that might be enough to fix your problems. Else just get a 2nd hand stock fan and put that back on. I went form regular coolant to water watter and didn't notice any significant changes in water temp.. but then I never had any problems to begin with and just went with water wetter as a precaution.

Ok so sounds like your running the Royal Purple RP41 (their racing oil) which is same as what I use. Thats good as it maintains high film strength as the viscosity of the oil drops when it heats up. Removing the thermostat on the oil cooler isn't going to help as by the time your oil is at operating tempreature it is wide open (as long as it is working correctly - can always test this). 105 on the water is definitely on the warm side, and that might be where your problem is originating (if your water is getting hot it will cause the oil to heat up). Are you still using the stock radiator and clutch fan? I dont think I've seen my water temp go much past 90 degrees even on the hot track days, and it normally hovers around the 85 mark. If your still using the stock cooler, perhaps its time for a nice chunky alloy cooler. I'd retain the clutch fan and shroud though, particularly if the car is used on the street as well as the track.

bit more info is needed.. rebuilt motor ? oil cooler ? what oil ? whats the tune like AFR wise and what do your water temps do ? In the end it comes down to film strength. If the oil can maintain a good film strength at 110 or 115 and your not overheating the motor (as oil temps to tend to have an effect on water/engine temps), then keep racing. I tend to get to 105 pretty quickly, then it creeps towards 110 but doesnt seem to go much past that. If i saw 115 on the oil, i'd probably pull it in and let it cool to be on the safe side. I know guys who have hit 125-130 and considered that to be 'ok'.

giggity giggity goo. keen as mustard to get back out there !

unless he's using carbons bits, his wet weight (with fuel and driver) is more likely to be around 3100lbs..... (just over 1400kg's.) EDIT: is this in a skyline ?? just read his sig mentioning an s13 in which case ignore the above :>

Yea, the compressors of the 2 turbo's are fairly similar in the scheme of things -> TO4Z Inducer 66.7mm Exducer 84.0mm Turbine: 74.2mm 4088R Inducer 63.5mm Exducer 88.0mm Turbine: 77.0mm Doesn't the exducer determine how much air it can flow ? People seem to be getting a bit more HP out of the 4088's than the Z's.. the fin design of the new garrett turbo's is more efficient than the older Z's.

Oh few bits and pieces. Got some softer suspension going in as the 12kg springs that were on there were way to hard. The car will definitely be there on the 11th even if i have to push the damn thing around the track hopefully catcha then ! Look forward to seeing what you can do with the good ole Z

my t04z is a split pulse t4 flange - same as the GT3788. The 4088R is a bigger turbo than the T04Z (compressor and turbine) so it will flow more HP, with a tiny bit more lag. Main reason for doing the swap is simply that the Z is too doughy out of medium tight corners around the track. IE: turns 3/4 @ QR I take at about 80km/hr. 2nd gear == massive tailslide on exit, whilst 3rd gear == LAG all the way out of the corner. Hopefully the new turbo is not only slightly more responsive, but a lot more linear in power delivery. I make 1 bar at 4100rpm with the Z and 24psi at 4500. Thats not too laggy, but as soon as you go below 4000 rpm there is absolutely nothing there. I wouldnt care too much if the 3788 only makes 1 bar at 4000rpm as long as 3800/3900 still had SOMETHING available unlike the Z which comes on like a lightswitch once you get over 4. The only unfortuante thing is that I wont be able to directly compare how the 2 turbo's would have worked on the track as I'm making some other significant changes to the car at the same time. So wont be able to say if the 3788 is soley responsible for better lap times, but hopefully combined with everything else we are doing it makes a big difference. Still probably a couple of weeks away from doing the swap - will see how we go.

yea you can get them in a T3 undivided inlet or a T4 divided (split pulse) inlet both with 3" v-band outlet

Good to see a back to back comparison there. Even though the setup could be improved, presumably the improvements would effect both dyno plots. the results are pretty much what I expected - 500-600rpm more lag, 70-100 more hp in the top end. We are pulling the t04z off my car in the next few weeks and we're going to put on one of the new GT3788R's. Should be very interesting to see what it can do. I will try to get back to back graphs. The graph of 1bxx056 looks pretty much identicle to mine. Would be good to see that overlayed against a really properly setup 35r on good manifolds etc.

bump for christmas !

my annual mothersite whoretown post and im using it to pimp my wares. buy my turbo -> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ga...rt-t300962.html

you're worrying too much. If they are at 70% tread, your talking a few mm difference in rolling diameter. ATTESSA is picky.. but not that picky

Note the surge porting was performed 8 months ago by MTQ. Turbo was inspected and serviced in the process - came back with flying colours. Surge porting improves response and extends turbo life. Cost me about $350 to get done.

Item: Garrett T04Z, Surge Ported, 0.84 rear. Location: Brisbane or Yatala (ERD workshop) Condition: 18 months old. Has done just over 10000kms. Perfect condition - no shaft play, turbo is currently on car. Never seen higher than 25psi. Price: $1500 firm Reason for sale: getting a new turbo for track work. Car was dyno'd at 618hp (sheet attached) @ 25psi with this turbo. I see 1 bar @4100rpm and 24psi by 4500. Turbo is on the car and will remain on until I have a buyer. I will take people for a demo drive if they want. It has a t4 flange and is split pulse. Garrett turbo beanie not included in price, but can source you a new one to suit for approx ~$200 Any questions post or pm me.

Have you confirmed that the nail has actually penetrated through all the rubber ? I've seen what i thought was a nail in my tyre before - turned out to just be the head mashed into the rubber with no puncture. I have had a semi slick repaired after a puncture before, and done 3 track days on it after the repair with no dramas. The repair needs to be done properly, but i dont see how it would change the performance of the tyre all that much ? Then again, both of the above posters have been into motorsport a lot longer than I have, so they probably know what they are talking about

voted

Car: ERD R33 GTR Turbo: Garrett T04Z @ 24psi Tyres: 265/35/18 Federal 595RS-R's (semi slick) Date:12/12/2009 Time: 3pm Output in rwkw: 450rwkw Track: Willowbank Raceway Air Temp: HOT Track Temp: VERY FKN HOT 60ft: 1.8 ET: 11.5 MPH: 125 mph Comments: Had a lot of variation in my MPH (119 slowest, 125 fastest), possibly due to the heat. Keen to go back with some MT's and crack a 10 one day.

bzzzt. Thats that 33 gts-t with similar wheels to mine. thats one of my runs. 12.0 @ 120. i did an 11.5 at 125.. hope theres a video of it floating around.

circuit rubber doesnt cut it for drag racing aye. wheel spin through 1st gear.. couldnt do better than a 1.8 60ft time. I either launched too hard and lit them up, or too soft and got bogged down. Tyres + launch control required Had a blast though. Might have to look at getting some mickey T's on the rear for next time.

remove the gearbox first. Last person i know who tried to remove the engine with gearbox attached destroyed the radiator supports.

hell no, i had onions in my dinner.. about to go brush them though. I'll let you know the results.

you know, if you drift on a track, there are far fewer things to hit... entry fee for drifting has gotta be cheaper than replacing rims and control arms from you being stupid on the street.. sigh, i can already tell im wasting my breath.