TriniGT

Oops now seeing that.

Thought you recessed the rad a bit to avoid the clutch fan from inadvertantly jamming it. I am doing a similar build with an RB26DETT swap and I am wondering whether I should have just trimmed and mocked up the rad before I sent the car to the paint room, damn!!!!

Hmmm I am in talks with RIPS on the job to adapt a plate to the lower mani for the ITB setup so that it can be an easy bolt on affair. Hope there is enough room for everything.

I think all RB25DEs are sidefeed only the RB25DET Neo has top feed.

We have a bit of the Neo RB20DEs so I wanna compare as the Neo RB25DET I had got cut and the RB26 end adapted to itbut now I am looking at a cheap option of making an adapter plate on the RB25DET Neo cooling setup to adapt the throttles to. So just need a confirmation really.

Can someone respond on this question I have here as well? Thanks again for the help Elite Racing. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Qu...Ma-t292276.html

Is it possible to get an idea of the cost to have it tunnel bored and all guides replaced at minimum? I can look at shipping, with a return cost of $500 it ain't that bad.

Does anyone know if the lower intake manifold of the RB25DET, RB25DE and RB20DE Neo heads are the same?

Boy believe it or not, I did all the work on the intake side to adapt the RB26 throttles and seeing as I had to use the different set of cam caps I cannot find a local shop to tunnel bore the setup. It is just sitting there watching me everyday. If I can get someone to do the tunnel bore for me that would be great help but there is currently no one local or even in the caribbean that does the job . I haven't given up hope on the project but this RB26 build is for my S14.5 build that has been ongoing for the past four years, yeah seriously. My ER34 is my daily so wanted to have no downtime or as little as possible by doing everything on a separate head and block and swapping it all over. Still having hope but if I can do a setup like what RIPS did and customize the lower RB25 plenum to have the RB26 setup working then I may go that route but I may have to buy a head locally whenever it pops up. Shipping a head out of country I am sure will be very expensive and I would want to have everything done to it, like replace guides, seat valves, tunnel bore cam journals, test head for cracks and other small things same time. Will let you know how it goes.

Hmmm another post gone wild!!!!

Thanks guys .

Well I am in the process of building an RB26DETT and looking for a reliable 500-550HP build for weekend running. I have spent a bit but for the power I am looking at I am thinking about my rods, thinking about stock GTR rods and ARP rod bolts. What do they compare to cheap Eagle rods and which one would be the better option. Right now I am not ready to spend $1100USD on Carillos for my 550HP build but any advice is welcome. Have been told the stock GTR rods with ARPs can more than do the job.

Hmmm I see where you're comign from now. Does it affect idling and driveability removing it and is there a proper way of removing it without the light coming on on the dash?

Right now I am in the market for a good clutch that can take all that a GT3076R can throw at it. Only problem is that I am all the way pver here in Trinidad in the West Indies. Any ideas what I can use for daily driving and weekend blasts? Does anyone have an email address for this Jim Berry guy as time zones are gonna be throwing me off, day over here when it's night over there.

Here we go, sweet site as well for DIYers, http://www.hkskylineclub.com/new/forum_posts.asp?TID=6128

Actually some GT-Ts have steel wheels. Saw on a Skyline Hong Kong site that the Neo cover with the turbo sign not in Red are steel wheel turbos. Will try to find the link.

That was the plan, trim both the inner side of the throttle and have it tig on the end of the intake mani so that it would not look too long and ugly and simply extend the wiring.

I don't think anything is reasonable for us here in the Caribbean. Aussies have it much nicer unless I can get some stuff through the US.

Just sent him a PM to see if he would respond. I thought the GT3076R would be better as 3071R will be at it's limits. The cams may come later on but for now that is what I am thinking of. The twinscroll was always an idea for some quicker spool as it is a twin scroll mani. Thanks for the inputs and keep it coming. Also what is a good street clutch for my application that is nice on the left leg?

Well as can be seen, I already have the HKS low mount mani, can I get the 3071R T3 flanged and also externally gated? Really don't want to block off the flange and I already have it so wanna use it. Also do I have to worry about clearance issues with the ABS setup and also my engine mount?

Well I am starting the saving process to make an order so that hopefully by year end I can have everything needed for my upgrade. Here is my base and what my plans are and let me know what you think of it. Base: ER34 RB25DET Neo - pretty much stock NGK Iridiums BKR7EX-11 gapped to 0.8 HKS FMIC Trust 13 row Oil Cooler Two Core Radiator Kakimoto 3.5" Exhaust Blitz ECU Blitz SSBC Blitz Timer and Gauge Trust Air Filter Defi Boost, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Water Temp, EGT Plans: HKS Bottom Mount Manifold - Actually Have this already GT3076R 0.82A/R with four bolt turbin housing and V-band add-on External Wastegate - Not sure what size to go with and also what alternative can I use instead of the HKS that will fit properly on the manifold? I am thinking like a Tial 40mm, your thoughts?? Spare head with the RB26DETT ITBs and Intake Manifold setup - Help eliminate the pipe running over and also a better look same time Keeping the TCS RB26DETT 700CC Injectors with HKS/Tomei/Sard Fuel Rail and Resistor pack RB26 Cam Cover and Center Plate - Bling Keeping VCT Solenoid Oil Return from Head Cosworth Headgasket Tomei Restrictor and block off as well ARP Headstuds Clutch ????? I really don't want to get in the block if I do get some extra cash and I get an entire spare engine I will get the collar attached to the snout, freshen up the block with bearings, ARP mains and ARP rod bolts also try to adapt the RB26 sump as well. Can I get your thoughts on the setup and also what clutch recommendation for a daily driver that will be at some points be in standstill traffic and on hills as well, not looking for something aggressive but able to handle 450HP. Also, what wastegate option? My management will be a toss up between the Vipec and the Power FC, the Power FC being so expensive now I may swing the Vipec way. Please no bashing on the management but on all other aspects feel free .

Maybe i should wait for it to evolve and then pick it up with all the gucci stuff.

I purchased an hKS low mount mani for my ER34 GT-T. My plan is to go with a GT3076R with a .82AR. Has anyone used this setup on a GT-T ER34? I am also at the same time modding the head to use the RB26DETT ITB setup. Will see how it goes, trying to keep the TCS as well no matter how ugly it is .

I think this has been thrashed over and over. Better do a search I am sure you will find it. Failing that I can get a pic of GTR wheels on mine.

Ballbearing turbos require a 0.035" restrictor, journal bearing turbos require a 0.06" restrictor.