TriniGT

Hmmm will measure the voltage coming to the fuel pump on tumble and see what it measures. How did you go about running a direct feed for the fuel pump and what was used to deactivate it once the car is not running. Is there any sort of wiring I can follow for this as it is a Walbro 255lph pump and I have heard horror stories of them failing because of poor voltage. Any help will be appreciated. Also I am gonna get some copper BKR7E-11 and try them but my first thing will be to investigate the pump problem as it is only since I have put in the pump that the hesitation has started. I am also thinking about changing my rubber intake setup to an aluminum setup as I felt the rubber intake and it is really soft and I am thinking it may be sucking/shrinking when under boost. I guess just trying to eliminate things in the process. It almost feels like under light throttle that it is sticking and then getting free and the car comes to life. I looked at the wideband and the moment it hesitates it goes lean and then resumes as normal. Since I changed the plugs and tightened all my hoses and changed vacuum lines and adjust the pivot controller to a leaner state under full boost the car is more responsive and it does not pull the 0.6bar it once did, it now pulls 0.5bar and it feels really good. The only thing I am worrying about is the readings when I am cruising in vacuum I see it go from anywhere like 13.5 to 16.5 and off throttle 17 and over for a bit. Anything to be worried about?

Is that not Top Secret, although it does look like a Nismo Front bar.

Okay I have replaced the plugs that were in the engine, coincidentally they were Nismo Iridiums Grade 7. The top of the plug had the inner half actually pitted and missing some material, the tip as in the spark tip itself seemed to be alright on all but the colour was light indicating that the car was running a bit lean. I got some NGK Iridiums in the same Grade 7 (BKR7EX-11) and gapped them to 0.8mm and put them in and tightened up everything and replaced hoses that were not in the best condition. Started her up and it idled fine but when driving I am still getting the hesitation. The hesitation comes on partial throttle, like around 1/4 throttle or less, more so when I am cruising or under 1500-2000rpm but after that it is fine. On heavy throttle it will hesitate at about 1500rpm and then come into boost and holds fine, not breaking up or anything. I decided to install an AEM Uego Gauge (Wideband) I had to monitor the AFRs I had and maybe use the Pivot ACS-M Controller to adjust if needed. After installing the wideband and checking the readings my idel was at about 14.7 and under full boost would drop to 10.2 (from reading which is very rich) and when off the throttle it would swing over to 17 or thereabouts and then drop back to about 15 or so, but on full throttle it was 10.2 I adjusted the Pivot to -2 on the dial and still got around 14.7 at idle and on full boost which is 0.6 bar it would be in the vicinity of about 11.7 but off throttle would be again around 17 and then drop to like 15 or thereabouts. When cruising I saw it going from 14.5 to 17 sometimes but more between 14-16 on cruising with a vacuum of about .2 bar. My question is is my plug gapping correct and what may be causing this hesitation as before the pump failed it drove perfectly without hesitation and now with the Walbro it hesitates; is it because of too much fuel? Also what is a safe AFR on full boost and what is safe when cruising? I am tryign to save for a standalone like the Vipec or even a Power FC and have it tuned as well but if I can get by with the Pivot for now safely I don't mind. Last thing I need to get now is a fuel gauge to monitor the fuel pressure when the hesitation occurs to see if something else is causing the problem. The car does feel much stronger now as I have adjusted the AFR once in boost I may add and I even tried the high boost option on the EBC which is set at 0.9bar and the AFRs were still right around 11.7 but in third gear I could feel the clutch beginning to slip so I backed off. Let me know what you think on the problems and what suggestions please.

Yeah fuel pump failed. Put in a Walbro I had but the car is hesitating now, gonna change plugs as I have not done that yet, changed the fuel filter already. Hesitation is bad enough so I am taking my time and I feel I got a combination of bad gas as well.

Thought I may get more help here. I left a friend's house a while ago and came home no porblems, switched off the car and had it running on the timer. I go to close my front gate and when I turn around I hear the idle drop a little and then the car stall. Tried starting the car but it just tumbles, got it to start but then it dies. I am hearing the fuel pump priming when I turn on the ignition, the fuel tank is full (wondering if I may have gotten a bad batch of gas as I just filled it not too long ago), I changed the fuel filter and still no luck. One question, will I only get a reading on the defi oil pressure gauge when the car starts? I am hoping it is just the fuel pump, I really need to have a friend over to remove the return and ensure that it is the fuel pump by flicking the igntion and see the fuel coming out. On a side note I am gonna install a fuel gauge and check the pressure same time. Any thoughts, I don't even wanna consider oil pump .

So no need to worry about the oil pump? Am I to only see an oil pressure reading when the car starts? The defi reads zero, but the car is not started.

I left a friend's house a while ago and came home no porblems, switched off the car and had it running on the timer. I go to close my front gate and when I turn around I hear the idle drop a little and then the car stall. Tried starting the car but it just tumbles, got it to start but then it dies. I am hearing the fuel pump priming when I turn on the ignition, the fuel tank is full (wondering if I may have gotten a bad batch of gas as I just filled it not too long ago), I changed the fuel filter and still no luck. One question, will I only get a reading on the defi oil pressure gauge when the car starts? I am hoping it is just the fuel pump, I really need to have a friend over to remove the return and ensure that it is the fuel pump by flicking the igntion and see the fuel coming out. On a side note I am gonna install a fuel gauge and check the pressure same time. Any thoughts, I don't even wanna conside oil pump .

These look to be for a soarer lexus.

If you have the factory BOV that would more than suffice but then you will have to get the factory piping which I am thinking you do not want to do at this point. So just spend a little extra and get the fitting to recirculate the BOV and you should be good.

Is it one like in the pic below, If so you will need to get the recirculating fitting and then plumb back in the return hose from the BOV to between the turbo and air flow meter (MAF) on the intake pipe where the stock pipe has the return.

is the BOV recirculated or vented, that will cause backfires when shifting.

Let me know if you can find that tracking as I have not got any word from couriers, who did you use to send it? Jason.

The thing is he got it serviced twice recently. The first time after he got the car back it would idle weird. Then he took it to another garage and they found the problem and at the same time replaced the timing belt, cam seals and cam cover seals as there were some leaks but even after changing that realized that there is oil coming from behind the intake cam gear, not sure exactly where but can it be from anything besides the cam seal, something in the intake cam gear itself that may need replacing? Last garage also overtightened the CAS and the idle would hunt, only to realize that the cam gear cover was damged and the spacer for the CAS was missing on one of the bolts. Anyone with a similar problem and remedy?

Did the guy ever pay for the bumper?

Hi people, I have a friend that has an RB20DE Neo in a Laurel Medalist and recently has developed a really bad oil leak on the intake side of the head. It appears to be coming from the intake cam gear area. Is there anything that can be replaced other than replacing the entire neo intake cam gear? Let me know as his entire engine bay is being constantly washed with oil.

Any updates? I am getting back my head hopefully this weekend. My setup looks like it came so, hope everything goes according to plan.

Will let you know, I may be getting an entire Neo head internal setup coming my way.

Can anyone confirm if any of the parts from an R33 RB25DET head can work on an RB25DET Neo head as I have access to one. I was told that Nissan does not sell the cam caps, they only come with their engines. Anyone can enlighten me?

And I am on the bumper!!!

I tohught the GTR R33 had the same setup with threechannels unlike the four with the R34.. I am removing the ABS setup in my S15 for my RB26DETT conversion.

Yeah but then no Individual throttles.

Any chance of shipping the R34 front fenders and bumper with lip and headlight to me in Trinidad. If you can find out shipping via sea freight to Trinidad, postal code TT I would be so grateful.

I got mine out of the states and it has the +12mm sticker on it as well. Dori34 any pics of the wheels on the car? This is the wheels I picked up,

Looks really nice, just wondering on the front, looks like the rear will need some pulling but the front may need some wider fenders or mayber a set of GTR fenders.

Hi peeps, Have been going through the wheel offset thread but have not been able to come across a setup. I have an ER34 GT-T and recently purchased a set of Rotas 18X9.5" in a +12mm offset. Has anyone tried fitting them to a GTT in this offset or what has been seen in this setup on a GT-T. I know disc also has a big part along with wheel style but can this be a specific thread for the GT-Ts? I bought these wheels really for my S15 project that I am going widebody but was just wondering if it may be a slight fender pull. Anyone, pics will be helpful as well???