TriniGT

Nice job. I wanna be looking like that by mid year.

Well what can I say you all have some nice lookers. Still waiting on my GTR conversion parts to arrive but here is my GTT in all her glory. RB26DETT swap to follow.

I can confirm DirtGarage, prices are way overpriced. Better off purchasing them abroad and bringing them in.

Oil Pressure, Water Temp Boost and a proper Wideband gauge.

Diffuser as in the bottom lip only or both lips?

What coolant are you'll running? I am rethinking now and what climate temps and coolant system with or without A/C? would be good to know for future reference.

Was searching and came up on this, anyone have answers to this as I want to install my Defi EXT Sensor this weekend. How long will it last on the turbo housing?

My defi reads, 85 or so on regular driving and just above 90 on hard driving. Lcimate will play a big factor as well and also what coolant you're running, I run Texaco extended life and I am thinking about switching to Red Line Water Wetter.

I don't think they will work check nengun.

I don't see both problems being a big thing and can be easily solved. The coolant outlet is a quick fix and also I was thinking you should have gone with RB26 injectors and the resistor pack. That is what my plan is, should be getting back my head soon from the shop, as soon as weekend hopefully.

Great thanks bro. Will let you know how it goes. Jason

Great thanks a lot for the help, just making sure you're not being sarcastic right?

I understand where you're coming from shanef. I already got the pistons and had the block hone for piston to wall clearances. The thing is that when it was being honed I did not remove the welsh plugs. The blocked was not bored but form the honing there is some slick on the block that I want to cleanup. I am seeing some shavings in the water galleries so I am wanting to remove the welsh plugs and give it a good cleaning but I am not sure if anything can get caught up in any areas and wedge there. I am not sure if I am being too worried but I want a clean build, building the block is not a problem but the cleanliness of the block is what I am concerned about. I will look around to see if anyone local has access to a bathe to help my situation. Thanks.

Well I prefer do the job myself and thoroughly. I guess the only way to get experience is to get down in to it hence the reason I am looking for helpful comments. Not everyone has access to highly qualified builders like in Aussieville, over here getting people to do a proper bore and hone job with a torque plate is near impossible, quicker to get a built jap car imported. I have brought in everything I have needed for my work as is needed. I look at it this way, it is my money being spent and I prefer I build it and destroy it than I pay my money for someone else to build it and destroy it. Anyone with words of helpful advice will be appreciated .

Okay as said before I got my block back from the machinist and I am almost ready to begin my build on the block. I have the sump at the shop getting the front transfer setup cut and shut. Question is I am reading and seeing some people having problems with bearing failure and in some cases the cleanliness of the build being a big factor. What can I do to clean the block after it has come back from the shop. I have access to a compressor at home. My plans are to first paint the block to the intended colour and then knock out the old welsch plugs and then get out my pressure washer and spray the entire thing thoroughly in all the ports and water and oil areas where the jackets were blocking and then use the compressor to blow out any remaining water it may have and then oil the bores. Is this advisable and if not what can be done as I don't want to have any shavings from the machine work foul my build?

Hairdryer and floss, easy no scratches and everyone's happy .

No those are not the super advans II may be the I the II is what is found on the HKS S15 and is a much newer version. In the right offset and width these wheels look pretty decent.

I placd an order for a four bolt turbine housing and external wastegate but my order got cancelled. I tihnk it would have made it easier but I think the GT3076R is the ideal turbo for a stock RB25DET. I may go down the road again and purchase one and have everything done. Nice work you're doing there.

Maybe overtorqueing the girdle as well to an extent but yeah I would think wear and oil starvation.

Well on my old primera I use to get that problem where mine would tumble for about five or six times before it started. Never knew why and then I took it to an electrical guy and he put a relay on the starter wire as he said over time the wire may become weak, never really worried about it and eventually sold the car but it did help. For your case though it may be an ignition switch problem, sometimes it clicks and sometimes it starts, check to see if your key is not worn as well, old keys tend to do this but most of the time it may be the internals of the ignition switch that may need to be rebuilt. Not sure if this answers anything but let me know. Also you can check and see if the alternator is functioning properly otherwise it won't charge the battery and hence sometime get a weak start but to me it sound like an ignition problem if he gets a click sometimes and if he keeps trying it eventually tumbles. Sorry for the sidetrack but good to hear the car is up and running NYTSKY

Could the static be giving trouble on the starter? Best thing would be to measure the voltage on the 12V lead going to the starter to ensure that it is getting enough for a healthy crank. Is the tumble of the starter sounding good, it may be as simple as putting a relay to up the power the starter is seeing?

Like MBS206 said, get a wideband on and check the AFRs you don't want to screw yourself.

Throw some Defis in there, I did, They fit with hardly any work, just remove the back of the stock gauge holders and wedge the 60mm defis in and then make a support bracket to keep them there and wire them and you're good to go. I ain't know electrician but I have some electronic knowledge and I can read diagrams well, it wasn't too bad.

What does the part number say on the center plate of these turbos, would like to verify or better, can I get a pic of it?

I think he bumped because he wants to know if he can run the 265 in the back