TriniGT

The GTT has a built-in voltage regulator for the pump, what happens on idle and in traffic is fluctuates the voltage. You can check for yourself if you want simple measure the voltage you get through the circuitry to the pump and measure the voltage from running a direct to it, let me know the difference, this is a known problem not something that was unique to me .

Have a look at this link, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/He...mp;hl=fuel+pump That is how I wired it up, thanks to raps86.

What most do is use the stock wiring to power a relay and then run a direct wire from the battery to the relay and then from the relay to the pump. Idea is that once the ignition is triggered it will power the relay and from there the voltage from the direct wire from the battery is sent to the pump. You will notice the difference in the pump, it will sound angry with buzzing and the voltage which would have varied from say 11-13 volts should be somewhere from 14-15V. Remember a 255lph pump getting 11V will not push the same amount that one with 14V. On my GTT when I used the stock wiring my pressure would fluctuate due to the circuitry and my reading for my pressure was 20psi, now I get 40psi constant and my walbro makes a nice buzzing sound. Check the rating of the walbro to see as well, the recommended voltage should be 14.3V or somewhere up there.

Keep it coming, nice bits.

When I replaced my pump with a walbro it did not give the full pressure, I had to rewire using the stock wires as the feed for the relay and after that was done my walbro would sing as the voltage was was where ti should be. My fuel pressure was spot on after that. Before that my pressure was around 20psi so I am sure there is some sort of varying voltage causing this.

Talk about bad luck, parked by a traffic light this morning and an old guy runs into the back of me. The car is actually pulling much better after I replaced some of the stock vacuum lines with some silicone replacements. Now I am down for the count. Thinking about fixing her up and selling her and getting me a GTR if I can afford one.

Drove the car today, no more dash lights but after a couple of spirited runs the breakup is happening at 5000+rpm. Can it be the gapping, I have BKR7E-11 copper plugs. The idle is getting back what seems to be a miss again. Gonna try and run it without the coilpack cover tomorrow in the night and see if I see any arcing. None of my coilpacks have any sign of arcing whatsoever. What else you can suggest besides getting Splitfires as right now I cannot afford to get them and I don't wanna park up my car .

Any way, I got a replacement coilpack and swapped number four and refitted my setup, rechecked timing and started the car. CEL has gone so far but the TCS and SLIP lights are still there. Ran an ECU diagnostic and came up with 17 only this time so the coilpack so far has cured two symptoms. I decided to erase fault codes and start again, so far no codes are appearing, no TCS, SLIP or CEL light. My idle is a little lumpy at times but I am yet to drive her. Maybe with some driving it will clear up. I have since found some other stuff to do to her in the mean time before putting her back on the road; leaking upper rad hose and thrashed steering rack rubbers. Does it ever end.

Also I checked the resistance on the primary side of my GTT coilpacks and I have found the culprit. Here are my readings, Coilpack 1 - 1.686 Coilpack 2 - 1.683 Coilpack 3 - 1.546 Coilpack 4 - Coilpack 5 - 1.581 Coilpack 6 - 1.671 My Part Number for these coils are MCP-1440 as stated earlier. I got a set off a Neo but not sure if it was an RB20 or 25 as they were off in a box, the part number is MCP-1340. Does anyone know if I can use them? Here is the primary side resistanc eon the five I got, Coilpack 2 - 1.440 Coilpack 3 - 1.385 Coilpack 4 - 1.423 Coilpack 5 - 1.424 Coilpack 6 - 1.556 Now my next question is is the lower the resistance the better and the higher the resistance? Wondering if I can put it these five and the lowest resistance one from my bunch to make a set? Your thought?

I don't see the need to regap the plugs, once you have proper spark it should be fine at stock boost. Any way, I got a replacement coilpack and swapped number four and refitted my setup, rechecked timing and started the car. CEL has gone so far but the TCS and SLIP lights are still there. Ran an ECU diagnostic and came up with 17 only this time so the coilpack so far has cured two symptoms. I decided to erase fault codes and start again, so far no codes are appearing, no TCS, SLIP or CEL light. My idle is a little lumpy at times but I am yet to drive her. Maybe with some driving it will clear up. I have since found some other stuff to do to her in the mean time before putting her back on the road; leaking upper rad hose and thrashed steering rack rubbers. Does it ever end.

Also I checked the resistance on the primary side of my GTT coilpacks and I have found the culprit. Here are my readings, Coilpack 1 - 1.686 Coilpack 2 - 1.683 Coilpack 3 - 1.546 Coilpack 4 - Coilpack 5 - 1.581 Coilpack 6 - 1.671 My Part Number for these coils are MCP-1440 as stated earlier. I got a set off a Neo but not sure if it was an RB20 or 25 as they were off in a box, the part number is MCP-1340. Does anyone know if I can use them? Here is the primary side resistanc eon the five I got, Coilpack 2 - 1.440 Coilpack 3 - 1.385 Coilpack 4 - 1.423 Coilpack 5 - 1.424 Coilpack 6 - 1.556 Now my next question is is the lower the resistance the better and the higher the resistance? Wondering if I can put it these five and the lowest resistance one from my bunch to make a set? Your thought?

For a neo coilpack what should the resistance be, I am gettign it ranging from 1.5-1.7ohms. Also the coilpacks I got as a spare are MCP-1340 not MCP-1440 like my original setup, would that make a difference?

Well I got some second hand ones so I am gonna swap them out and see if that helps.

I pulled the codes from the CEL as they came up when I started the car tonight. Here is what I got 17 - ABS/TCS Control Unit Circuit. Throttle Control Unit detects malfunction in the system/TCS/ABS Control Unit detects malfunction. 21 - Ignition Signal Circuit. No Consecutive Ignition Signal while the engine is running 43 - Throttle Position Sensor Signal Circuit. TPS output voltage is either higher than 4.7V or lower than 0.06V for predetermined time while parked/neutral position switch is OFF and vehiucle speed is less thank 4Km/hr or higher Could it be that the coilpacks are causing the other errors to come about? When I started the car the idle was about 2000rpm and then very abruptly it dropped under to about 500rpm and then the idle sounded all weird. Any ideas or should I change the coilpacks and work from there?

I pulled the codes from the CEL as they came up when I started the car tonight. Here is what I got 17 - ABS/TCS Control Unit Circuit. Throttle Control Unit detects malfunction in the system/TCS/ABS Control Unit detects malfunction. 21 - Ignition Signal Circuit. No Consecutive Ignition Signal while the engine is running 43 - Throttle Position Sensor Signal Circuit. TPS output voltage is either higher than 4.7V or lower than 0.06V for predetermined time while parked/neutral position switch is OFF and vehiucle speed is less thank 4Km/hr or higher Could it be that the coilpacks are causing the other errors to come about? When I started the car the idle was about 2000rpm and then very abruptly it dropped under to about 500rpm and then the idle sounded all weird. Any ideas or should I change the coilpacks and work from there?