TriniGT

Hi I have been getting the occasional TCS and SLIP light coming on on startup. Fix it by switching off and starting again. Last week I got the problem when I was driving though and immediately after that it followed by a CEL which caused the idle to be irratic and do drop to about 500rpm, looked as if the oil pressure was dropping as well as becuase of the irratic idle. Luckily I was around the corner from home and got her back and decided to check the problem online to see if anyone encountered it. Low and behold it is a known problem with coilpacks so I decide to scrp the center cover and have a look at the coilpacks. I am currently running Iridium 7's with a gapping of 1.1mm that I regapped to 0.8mm. I was never confident on the manual gapping and decided to swap out the Iridiums for some NGK coppers with a 1.1mm gap as well. Now I have a huge Oddesey battery so I know the power is not the problem. I swapped the plugs out and inspected the coilpacks thoroughly same time and they all look like brand new so I put them back in and refitted everything and started her up. After a couple of seconds the TCS and SLIP came on and the CEL a little later as well. On some more reading I heard to first check my timing, this car came from Japan with a Blitz Access ECU and a Pivot ACS-M controller to adjust the Air/Fuel Mixture, I had a wideband attached and made the fuel adjustment for our octane. This is a temporary measure until I can afford a proper standalone setup. Anyway, I followed advice and checked timing, bringing the car to operating temp and then connecting the timing light and unplugging the TPS harness as this is an RB25DET Neo. Checked the timing and it is at 10*, I know it suppose to be 15* so I adjusted the CAS and got it to be at 15* then reconnected the TPS harness and rev the car and checked to see that the timing advances accordingly and then switched the ignition to the OFF position and then restarted clearing all the logs. Now when I start the car there is no TCS or SLIP light and thus far the CEL is not there. I am yet to take the car for a spin to see if it has gone away but I am still getting a slight miss, hoping that it may clearup with a couple of spirited trips but if the lights come back I will be pulling the codes off the consult connector to see what code it is throwing, I should have done this initially but it slipped me. What I also found when I clipped back in the TPS harness is that the timing began to fluctuate and it was difficult to see where the timing was at with the gun, is that normal?

Hi I have been getting the occasional TCS and SLIP light coming on on startup. Fix it by switching off and starting again. Last week I got the problem when I was driving though and immediately after that it followed by a CEL which caused the idle to be irratic and do drop to about 500rpm, looked as if the oil pressure was dropping as well as becuase of the irratic idle. Luckily I was around the corner from home and got her back and decided to check the problem online to see if anyone encountered it. Low and behold it is a known problem with coilpacks so I decide to scrp the center cover and have a look at the coilpacks. I am currently running Iridium 7's with a gapping of 1.1mm that I regapped to 0.8mm. I was never confident on the manual gapping and decided to swap out the Iridiums for some NGK coppers with a 1.1mm gap as well. Now I have a huge Oddesey battery so I know the power is not the problem. I swapped the plugs out and inspected the coilpacks thoroughly same time and they all look like brand new so I put them back in and refitted everything and started her up. After a couple of seconds the TCS and SLIP came on and the CEL a little later as well. On some more reading I heard to first check my timing, this car came from Japan with a Blitz Access ECU and a Pivot ACS-M controller to adjust the Air/Fuel Mixture, I had a wideband attached and made the fuel adjustment for our octane. This is a temporary measure until I can afford a proper standalone setup. Anyway, I followed advice and checked timing, bringing the car to operating temp and then connecting the timing light and unplugging the TPS harness as this is an RB25DET Neo. Checked the timing and it is at 10*, I know it suppose to be 15* so I adjusted the CAS and got it to be at 15* then reconnected the TPS harness and rev the car and checked to see that the timing advances accordingly and then switched the ignition to the OFF position and then restarted clearing all the logs. Now when I start the car there is no TCS or SLIP light and thus far the CEL is not there. I am yet to take the car for a spin to see if it has gone away but I am still getting a slight miss, hoping that it may clearup with a couple of spirited trips but if the lights come back I will be pulling the codes off the consult connector to see what code it is throwing, I should have done this initially but it slipped me. What I also found when I clipped back in the TPS harness is that the timing began to fluctuate and it was difficult to see where the timing was at with the gun, is that normal?

Thanks will try to get my hands on some.

I am getting a missfire on my GTT RB25DET engine. I changed the plugs from the Iridiums I had previously gapped from 1.1mm to 0.8mm. I did not like the fact that I had regapped Iridiums so after having this problem I decided to swap in some 1.1mm BKRE7E-11, left them with the 1.1 gapping as well. Problem I have encountered is the famous bad idle and check light flashing at low rpm and having the TCS and SLIP lights on contstantly. I am going to pull the code today and see what is causing it, the coils look perfect no cracks as I inspected them thoroughly but maybe my eyes are deceiving me. I know the usual cause of a misfire is either coilpacks, gapping or in some cases timing. The car worked fine and has never been touched but I always had a slight miss ever since I got the car but in the last week I am getting a break up when in boost and around 5000-6000rpm. My question is are all Neo coilpacks the same, I don't want to run and buy Splitfires as I am removing the engine in a matter of months and I would prefer to get proper working replacements. I am wondering if I can get a set from an N/A RB20DE Neo or RB25DE Neo or will I have to get from an RB25DET Neo setup, does anyone know offhand?

Great No probs, will send you an email.

Looking forward to a writeup on the GTR cluster wiring.

Looking for the pinouts for the GTR instrument cluster in a GTT. Hook me up, send it to my email if you want, [email protected] .

Damn intense .