Torques

Hi, I got an offer for a set of wheels and I was wondering if these would fit without further modifications. What tyre sizes would be sensible? Thanks ..

Thanks .. will possibly give it a try if I am bored and my mechanic keeps hiding

How about the Sway Bar? Isn't it under tension? With my other cars the weight of the car had to be on the wheels, otherwise the bar would not fit ..

Yes, I noticed I slightly dented the cross-member despite all my efforts. As for the Sway bars I will wait for my mechanic to do this using the hoist lift.

It's been a while but -> A 63mm joiner does the job. It's a bit of a compromise, but works. One side of the Nissan piping is 60mm, the other 66mm The length is 76mm. Cheers

Hi! Thanks for that, so the hoist it is .. or is it not? There are some things you can do relatively easy, as changing the exhaust section. I usually use the garage jack under the front cross member or the differential on the rear to jack up the car . Then the chassis stands with rubber adapters under the sills. However, I actually don't trust the sills too much ..

Is it possible to change the front sway bar yourself with just a garage jack/stands or would that be rather a job for a professional post lift and an air impact driver? I did this kind of work before but only on MacPherson type suspension and it was always good having had the car on a lift. Thanks ..

Thanks, all done now, works very smoothly and without any noise. It's been a bit of a job since I had to revisit my alarm system wiring which had not been finished until the actuator was installed. This 'mod' really propelled my car into the 21th century Gone are the days fumbling with that key ..

Yes!! I made sure to get the loom for it (makes it so much nicer)

Hi Chris, Thanks for the input, will get to it in a minute. (Can't wait to have a proper central locking) Yes, a Nissan Almera (1995) doorlatch was exactly what I needed. The actuator fits right in .. works beautifully. On the left the Skyline locking switch, right the Almera actuator (4 wire)

Sorry, I meant to write the driver side door, not passenger. To my knowledge there is no 2nd pair which I could use. Normally there is only that switch which is linked to the door latch. Now the actuator (from an Almera) fits 100% and includes the switch (which triggers passenger side) but also needs 2 wires for the actuator functionality. So I need to route 2 wires into the cabin in order to connect it to the alram system. Sorry for the mixup .

Hi there, I need to route 2 wires from the passenger door into the cabin (addition of central locking). What's the best way/smartest way of doing this? There seems to be just this one door connector and it doesn't look tweak friendly Car is R33 GTSTS2 Thanks!

I'd say that a more rigid 'looking' bar has less torsion in itself so adding to stiffness

Really? A mate of mine has the GTR ones ... Will double check with him. Thanks

Could someone comment how the Whitlines compare to a pair of 2nd hand GTR-Swaybars? (Leaving the adjustment benefit aside)

Yes, I agree .. it's the worst possible solution. (I removed that restrictor very quickly when I saw how tiny the diameter was)

Yeah I see what you mean, But a full turn on a thread/bolt can put up a significant force ranging into the tons. (Also that was what I considered to be pre-load) But my initial question is now answered by myself:) You're supposed to tighten the bolt, so pulling the brace more together. Also the manual states that the car has to be on an even surface, not jacked up when installing the brace. I'm glad I did this right

Well, I now got the final word on this. By pure chance I found two pages about removing and re-installing the (front) strut brace in my workshop manual. It states: Tightening the middle screw by a full turn! If you don't believe it, I could upload a scan ...

Hey, I am not too sure about this since I had one of these restrictors and the actual diameter of the hole in the restrictor was about half the size of outlet area the standard zaust offered.! So I am tempted to say that it builds up more back-pressure which is not so good. The turbo spools up faster (due to more volume present after the turbo) but then the restrictor stuffs the system up. I had one of these: http://www.raceinspired.com/p-6887-hks-inner-muffler-silencer-96mm-universal.aspx And they look really silly with that little pigeon hole, don't you think? Cheers. .

How can I bolt a silencer onto the tip? Do you mean a ristrictor by chance? These look very silly and put a lot of back pressure into the system.

Thanks guys, Much appreciated .. Anus aside I am in the UK and for imported vehicles there are certain loopholes to get around the use of a CAT. I will see if I find a higher flowing CAT and give it go ..

I have no issues with this .. car is legal without CAT!

I need some input on what you people think causes less restriction. I used to have a De-Cat + the OEM standard Nissan exhaust.. That was fine and the sound was great. I changed this to: De-Cat + 3'' Greddy Stainless Steel PEII (http://www.nengun.com/greddy/power-extreme-ii) The PEII is not bad but I find it noisy and I need to do something about it. I suspect that putting the CAT back in will reduce the noise .. However what would be more restrictive -> De-Cat with the Nissan exhaust or The OEM-CAT with the PEII I have a 3.5'' Tomei downpipe and an HKS-Dump, so there is increased volume after the turbo. Car makes about 270kw.