Torques

Hello, Hmmm ... that is actually odd. Are you sure about the revs dropping? From the schematics I see no reason why this should be the case at all if you just cut the track. There is no connection on R33 (Pin33) to the Fast Idle Ciruit on any model I came across. Maybe your ECU is SPEC1(.5)? That would could that PIN33 of the Z32 has to be rerouted the PIN36 of the R33 loom. Also (and to repeat myself) what is the colour of yor CAS housing?

I'm sure Matt will sort it out .. the light should not interfere with the function of the ECU. I would have to have a look at the Z32 schematics to find out how it is all triggered. I think (on S2) the AC triggers the fast idle circuit, but the ECU knows about this by a sense wire and changes ignition timing (not 100% sure) The sense wire is not on pin 33 but pin 46 (input) (Same on Z32) On Z32 it seems the ECU is directly triggering the Fast Idle Circuit. Also there is no 100% accurate schematic for the S2 in circulation. I have the genuine workshop manuals (actually in print and paid for ) for the S2, but even these are not 100% to my car which is a late (1998) S2. Also interesting to know what colour the camshaft sensor (angle) on your engine is ? Black, or silver? To give you some orientation I have attached a snippet fromm the Z32 ECU, the arrow points to PIN 33 (on S2 exhaust lamp) Enjoy Nistune, it's a great solution and the folks at Nistune put a lot of effort into this ..

Hi, I am quite sure that PIN32 on R33 is Check Engine. (so Z32 matches R33 loom) There was never a re-routing of this PIN necessary. At current the Fast Idle of the your Z32 ECU is simply connected to your exhaust lamp. Fast Idle on S2 is not done by the ECU, the signal comes from the AC directly. Z32 actually triggers Fast Idle via PIN33 ... (which is your exhaust lamp) Time for a coffee

Correction (sorry) Z32 (PIN33 FAST IDLE) -> R33 (PIN33 EXHAUST LIGHT) Z32 (PIN32 CHECK LIGHT) -> R33 (PIN32 CHECK LIGHT)

I think -> Z32 (PIN33 FAST IDLE) -> R33 (PIN33 EXHAUST LIGHT) Z32 (PIN32 CHECK LIGHT) -> R33 (PIN33 CHECK LIGHT) If you cut the track (PIN33) on the Z32 ECU it should be fine. One could also cut the wire at the ECU loom.

You're not supposed to revv the engine or do anything silly. The maps in the Z32 ECU are just an approximation of the standard R33 and Z32 ECU maps to get you to the tuner!

You are brave man ..! Or was the ECU tuned? Also more on the topic, what is the colour of your Crank Angle Sensor? (black housing, or metal?)

HI! I have an R33S2, would you people know if the horn assembly can stay in its place? Thanks ..

The only real difference between PowerFC and Nistune is that with Nistune you have a full blown PC-Interface and you can log/tune/store your maps on a laptop. That's why I bought Nistune. With PowerFC you need an additional add-on called DataLogit to have that kind of connectivity. PowerFC=Tried, tested and proved; fire and forget solution. Nistune=Better connectivity, a bit more hassle to install. Cheers

AMEN!

Here's a good explanation http://www.peregrinesupercars.com/Camshafts.htm :

Very nice, Would you have this a bit larger please (it's stamp size)

Overlap = Time Inlet and Exh\aust Valves are open at the same time, so when you open the inlet earlier overlap is increased. Larger ovelap is in general not helpful to idle. At low rpm overlap also causes the intake charge to be sucked out of the exhaust due to the relatively long time the exhaust side is open with regards to rpm.

Yes, the overlap of the camshafts is no good for low rpm / idle. The exhaust gases revert into the inlet .. That's why the Z32 ECU only switches to 'on' at higer rpm > 2000 a minmum speed car in gear

Thanks all, That would make sense then since it was written here that the exhaust system is somewhat shorter.

AFAIK the inlet cam is advanced by around 18 degrees. This gives the charge more time to fill the cylinder, especially at lower boost this might be helpful. However this measure also increases valve overlap which leads to charge reversion. Turbo engines usually have very tame camshafts anything 'wild' or overlap is no good since the back-pressure in the cylinder is reversing through the inlet. (Of course there are many different turbo engines ...)

I found the attached dyno, it's different boost levels with VTC on or completely off. VTC is switched at around 4700 I have no dyno with VTC switched on all the time, sorry! The graphs shows torque only.

Still one has to ask himself why did Nissan go through all the hassle of VTC activation if switching it on permanently just takes off 10KW at the upper band. (So I don't buy the 10KW)

I can recommend this one: http://www.nengun.com/tomei/fuel-pump-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t Drop in replacement, not noisy, quality item!

In engineering is a term called B.S.F.C (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption) You could use this caculator to give you an idea about fuel requirements for injectors and pump. http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx

Having it on constantly would cost you power at higher RPM. The genuine R33 ECU switches off at around 4600RPM. I guess a window switch will work fine, though the load triggered activation has a certain appeal to it. (on the Z32 ECU) manently on because it performs better than off, so I wouldn't be too worried about it say burning out the solenoid or anything. Know it is fine in my car using a window switch, I just make it turn off below 1.5k so it isn't on all the time.

Hi, Just to mention: The Z32 ECU does also switch VTC (or VCT) based on engine load / speed / temperature so a switch based one sole RPM might not be as good. .

Hello, I was affected by the notifications not working It used to work back in the days, but then about 6-7 months ago I stopped receiving notifications. (long story short (3 weeks of research)) -> I found out that SAU is blacklisted on a SPAM-Filtering-System which is used by several Email-Service-Provider. http://csi.cloudmark.com/en/reset/ As a matter of fact SAU was always trying sending Emails to me , but the messages were simpy bounced (since marked as SPAM) -> Rejected: 119.252.191.84, listed at http://csi.cloudmark.com/reset-request for remediation.) I complained at my service provider but got no reply so far. As an interim solution I set up a GMAIL account and changed my address in the forum settings. Everything is back to normal now.

True, it's not worth saving on these crucial parts I guess. Just out of interest: $750 sounds like a good deal .. what is the source for these? Thanks!

Hi there, My driver seat has a hole on the side where the seat belt tends to rub against the fabric. Is there a cosmetically nice looking solution to this? I don't want to patch any tape or so on it, but something needs to be done. The seat itself is in very good condition, so it is well worth preserving. Best would be to remove the seatcover (if possible) and sew some kind of (leather) patch on it. What other solutions are there? Thanks ..