Torques

Thanks, I was just elaborating on the pothole situation, had nothing to do at all with me buying swaybars. And I hear you on 24mm.... Hitting one of these obstructions with just one wheel is always a pain.. So when choosing the new coil-overs I will take road conditions into consideration. Any suggestions?

I hear you, but in the UK they have the usual potholes plus(to make matters worse) Speed-Bumps and Speed-Tables. Potholes are from mere neglect, but the Bumps/Tables are just evil .. Often the local council is not in line with regulations and the Speed-Tables are way too high. (You can tell by the impact markers of sorry oil pans) That's why I don't want to lower my car much (have not decided on the right coil-overs yet) I wonder where all the tax $$$ go As for the sway bars, I will see that I can find a distributor in the UK. Good nite!

No news on my side. Have to move house, so the car has to wait .. But I found out that the EV14, are parts from Ford Motorsport for the Mustang GT. I guess they fell of some truck

No news on my side. Have to move house, so the car has to wait .. But I found out that the EV14, are parts from Ford Motorsport for the Mustang GT. I guess they fell of some truck

Thanks for the input, if they're powder coated I will have no issues with corrosion. Yes, I am UK based so not really an option for an Australian group buy. So possibly 24mm front, 22mm rear. I use the car mainly on the road, not on the track. So no need for Motorsport-Type sway bars. Also I want to maintain a somewhat comfortable overall experience, especially with the poor roads in the UK.

Thanks, Not sure if I need it adjustable, though they seem to be the same price as non-adjustable. Are these bars protected from corrosion?

Thanks, Which ones did you install? (Adjustable/diameter?) I'm just tired of the body roll, will get new coilovers (later) as well ..

Hello, I'm looking for a swaybar kit for my R33. Someone recommended Whiteline, are they any good? http://www.whiteline.com.au/do_segue4.php?make=Nissan&model=Skyline&model_final=SKYLINE+R33+GTS%2C+GTS-T+2WD&vehicle=1%2F93-12%2F98 http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=BNF24Z Thanks

Hi, Yes, thank you .. makes perfectly sense .. I'll try this later today.

I need to unplug the front knock sensor. The field of view is very limited, so what's the best way to disconnect the sensor from its plug? I tried pulling with bare hands, but that seems not to be it. Most electrical connectors have some kind of locking mechanism, but (as said) the sensor is not easily accessible so I can not 'see' how to unlock this one. Thanks ..

You can, when you set up the minimum speed for activation to ZERO. If you have questions let me know. As for my VCT, I tested it yesterday by connecting a light bulb to the solenoid. Sadly it worked Also I activated the solenoid manually (by applying a voltage to it) (It clicked and then the valve train rattled a bit, also rpm went down) I have to say that I have Poncams, and these might just work as if VCT was on most of the time. (more overlap) Anyhow, I will find out what's wrong.

Btw. Is your car Spec1 or Spec2?

Hello there, I have an RB25 with Z32ECU+Nistune. The Z32ECU activates VCT by (engine)load, not RPM, however you can change this by changing parameters in Nistune. Look at what I (User: Torque)wrote here: http://forum.nistune.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2125 This is tried tested and proven... However despite Z32 giving the VCT-Signal, I think VCT is not working on my car. Judging from my Dyno, I lost about 100NM ar 3000rpm. Also the car is like a slug at low RPM. I will (tonite) test if my solenoid is working by applying GND to the selenoid itself. How did you get on with the issue at your side?

Hi, But an R34GTT exhaust does fit the R33GTST (I have a standard GTT exhaust 'under' my car)

Hello there, Thanks for your replies. I think this one is actually a HKS (as someone here mentioned) HKS has a series called Silent Hi-Power and same of these have a thing called 'noise chamber' to filter out droning noise.

Hi .. I'm not sure if this is for the 4-doors (do these have different exhaust systems?) Basically looking for a somewhat silent system but with higher flow (compared to standard) I don't have high hopes anybody has ever seen this but you never know. (This exhaust must come from deep inside the JDM)

I came across this exhaust: http://www.i-parts.co.jp/used/detail.asp?td=2224087 It looks kinda interesting, has anybody ever seen this model b4? Also would you think (judging from the pictures) that the piping is larger in diameter compared to the standard Nissan one? Thanks

Hmmm I have this data somewhere, will be happy to post it. The CHRA is Garrett. Sure, boost is not everything, (in the end it is about flow anyhow) But what you are getting at is compressor efficiency. With these hybrids you have to trust the manufacturer quite a bit. They said the turbo is good for about 350-380HP. Also I have to say that I still have the standard exhaust / airbox on it. (and only the R34 SMIC) So all things considered I'm good and happy with what I have ATM. (More to come)

Amen to that! Well, all the information I have that it is good for 20PSI and that it is machined out quite a bit. Stao (Hypergear) did like units in the past. As usual with these units there is no compressor map available. I will know about the turbo's capacity once I raised the boost. As for spool-up I compared my plot to other turbos and my spool-up looks OK in comparison. Yes, I could have bought a nice HKS for 60% more $$$ but I wanted a drop im replacement for the time being .. But again: I just wanted to make this data available since I thought people might find it interesting ..

No, it was not as expensive as a BB HKS or Trust or .. It was around $1100 and is a good quality unit 'made in UK ' by a company that deals with commercial turbos on a industrial scale. I doubt your $400, since you also have to machine the housings etc. But anyhow, this was not so much the point of the my post and I am quite happy with the unit.

This turbo was/is not cheap. And the spoolup of the standard ball bearing Nissan unit is hard to beat.

Well, This graph/post was not about power, but spool-up on same conditions. (though power increased by 20HP with almost identical boost) And 'yes' the turbo is a standard high flowed unit with bush bearings. (good for 20PSI)

Well for once the standard turbo fell apart, and yes ... certainly, for more reliable boost/power. The ECU was mapped to accommodate the higher boost anyhow.

I recently replaced my standard turbo with a hybrid (high flowed) unit. With same settings I made this overlay from the dyno-plot to show the differences in spoolup. I thought why not post it .. Green=Hybrid Red=Genuine Nissan Essentially the Nissan turbo is @1BAR @2900RPM whereas the Hybrid needs 3700RPM for that. I have no idea whether this is good or bad performance for a hybrid and will do some research. The car feels not as laggy as the plot might suggest, so I'm quite happy with the result. Cheers

Could you give us a bit more detail why 'it was junk'? Are you refering to the rail or injectors or both??