Torques

Hi .. Yes, I looked into these Kando turbos for a while. I found them interesting, but (and if you're talking about the TD06H series) 1. only oil cooled (except for TD06H-20G) 2. exhaust side does not match the R33 dump 3. turbo outlet does not attach to standard piping 4. oil/water connectors require custom lines 5. journal bearing (so no advantage over HF turbo) Here's the TD06H you might have had in mind(?) http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-Nissan-RB25DET-R33-TD06H-20G-/280763016554?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item415ec7a56a So that's why I went for the high flowed which actually seems to be quite nice... (though I have no other comparison than the standard turbo)

Hello there, Thanks for the feedbacks, much appreciated. The OP6 Turbo is off an R34GTT, so same engine (as for cubic inches) as my R33GTSTS2. What I got out of your replies is that the OP6 basically comes down to a different A/R? So if OP6 is High-Flowed, the same turbine wheel is used (maybe?) As for High-Flowing or not I have to say that I was attracted by the 'drop in' aspect of these. My genuine turbo fell apart so high flowing it was the first option which came to mind. However when I installed the new Turbo I had to find out the there was some struggling with the oil-feed and water lines. (These were essentially minor issues, but I never had done this before so it took some time to get the right lines made) Though the High-Flowed is not a ball bearing (as opposed to the genuine turbo) it does a good job and I feel it is not much different to the genuine unit )maybe 300-400rpm lag). I will be on a dyno soon and post the boost curves. Thanks, and cheers from London

Thanks, I actually fitted a high flowed unit (non OP6) a while ago and I do not find it 'that' laggy compared to the standard turbo. By coincidence I now got this OP6 turbo and was not sure if it was worth to throw that one in. So it's basically the same turbine wheel with a bigger housing then? I thought the high-flow workshop might use a larger wheel in that housing.

Hello, I was wondering if there is any substantial benefit from high-flowing an OP6 turbo as compared to the standard (high-flowed) unit?

I thought I attach some pictures. Looks good so far .. I also bought black mesh to put it in front of the cooler in order to protect it from larger objects (will be attached to the bumper) And I will send some pictures once it is installed ....

Hmmm ... dunno .. Do the Neo cams plug into the RB25DET head? The Neo has solid lifters though ..

OK, thanks .. So most of the work seems to be getting the bumper off and on the car, and figuring out which part of the bar to cut .. I will jack up the car's front to make life a bit easier

It reads very much as cut from the ECU. Maybe you have spikes or whatever, but the ECU reads too much air coming in and tries to protect your engine ... Rich and retard happens before the hard-cut, so ECU is accessing A/F ratios of around 10 to coold down things. (Still makes good power though)

Hi! That's excatly the behavior when the ECU cuts the fuel. The ECU has an internal value for LOAD, if that LOAD is reached it will cut the fuel UNTIL LOAD goes BELOW a certain threshold. (google for TP load limit nissan) However, as you say, it is strange that the cut appears also with low boost. Check your ECU and find out what's in there. (just to be sure) Did the car always do this?

Hi ..So standard boost, no boost controller ..? Are you sure? Is it still the standard ECU in there? Did you do a reset of the ECU? (unhook the battery) Did the car always behave like this? From what you say it sounds very much like fuel cut from the ECU .. It does this when the load reaches a certain limit. But unless you run around 12-14PSI of boost the ECU will not cut. Cheers ..

Hi .. As far as I am aware the compressed air is not high velocity, so it might not be as dramatic. But any sharp bends should be avoided ... I trust Blitz, they should know what goes and what does not . Thanks for the link for the installation, the work looks doable. Did you have to drill any holes? I did the whole procedure when I fitted the R34 SMIC, it helps when you know where the screws for the bumper are located. Today I collected the FMIC (will post pictures) .. it came in a huge box, and it 'just about' found room in the rear of my R33. Had a quick look into the box, and the FMIC looks pretty nice I will definitely use some kind of mesh to protect the FMIC, any ideas what to use? Cheers and good nite ..

Yes .. I went the extra mile (in terms of $$$) to get quality and ease of installation. Also I wanted to preserve the genuine look of the engine bay and use the existing piping. There is no drilling or cutting of metal parts of the car required (I hope that is true Cheers ..

I guess I was meaning remote control entry then ..

[OFF TOPIC] I alway liked the Soarer, and I was looking at many Soarers for sale .. Eventually I bought a Skyline since it had more 'easy' potential for tuning. Shame was that I wanted the V8-package but the Twin-Turbo engine. (I saw nothing special in a big luxery cruiser with a V8)

HI ... Yes .. turn flow. I don't know about a cap at 300KW, but my car is far from these figures (I guess 270KW (target) is realistic) Right now I 'just' have the R34 SMIC which was OK with the standard turbo, but I recently upgraded to a hybrid so (I guess) it was time for a larger FMIC in order to run higher boost figures. If I will ever go over 300KW I can always 'upgrade'

How do you protect these? Is it worth looking for some 'mesh' to put it in front?

Thanks for helping me decide. I have just ordered the SE one, will be here tomorrow I'm curious to see if Blitz is worth the extra $$$! You almost had me? You never had me - you never had your car...

Thanks .. I was just concerned with the corrosion aspect, since Blitz states that the CS-Inercooler will last longer ..?? http://www.blitzpowerusa.com/products/intercooler_cs/intercooler_cs.html If I lose, winner takes my car clean and clear. But if I win, I take the cash, and I take the respect!

Hello, I have the option of buying either the standard (SE) Blitz Intercooler or the CS (Chemical Shine) one. The CS is more expensive and I would have to wait 8 weeks for delivery, the SE is in stock ... Has anyone experience with the CS? Is it worth the extra $$ and wait? Thanks ...

Hello there, I am thinking about installing an alarm system. (not so much for the alarm but for not having to use the keys) I did this before on different cars so I know a thing or two about it .. Would anybody know if the S2 ever came with a keyless entry system from factory? (That would mean that there might already be something prepared in the electrics) Also what would be the best location for the alarm-controller? Thanks ..

Thanks for the input .. Could you recommend a clutch brand? Is Excedy any good? I would need good operation for daily driving (no on and off operation) From time to time I would do a few quarter mile runs but nothing serious. My current (old) clutch feels kinda wobbly and 'laggy' I would like to have something more direct. Any though appreciated ..

Hi .. A friend told me that he 'upgraded' his R33 clutch by installing the R32GTR one. He said the clutch was good for up to 260RKW, cheap, and that clutch operation was smooth and easy. So is this a viable upgrade, or should I rather buy an 'upgraded' clutch kit for the R33? (I will have to change my clutch soon ..) Thanks ...

Hi .. A friend told me that he 'upgraded' his R33 clutch by installing the R32GTR one. He said the clutch was good for up to 260RKW, cheap, and that clutch operation was smooth and easy. So is this a viable upgrade, or should I rather buy an 'upgraded' clutch kit for the R33? (I will have to change my clutch soon ..) Thanks ...

The pump is only reduced in voltage when the car is at idle, once things get in motion the FPCM switches over to full voltage. I doubt you will need 300L/H at idle, so why bother? The whole concept is that Nissan wanted to reduce noise from the pump when the car is stopped. Personally I hate that whining sound and it bothers me. (my car is also my daily drive and I also like my car to be 'neat' and fast)

Yep, The fuel pump gets + (12V) via the relay which is triggered directly by the ECU. The ground side of the pump is connected to the FPCM (which in turn is some kind of floating ground if you will). If I were to do this mod, I'd unplug the FPCM and bridge connectors 3 + 1. No relay or anything needed. I'm running the Z32 ECU, and this one does 3 voltage steps ..