Torques

True, if it ain't broken why fix it? Hoever the Bosch solution would be 25%-30% cheaper (including fuel rail, and Sard pressure regulator) and could be used up to 8 bar. The Nismo's are overprised but the Bosch are definately quality as well. So it's not like buying some Chinese copy instead of a Japanese quality part. Also there is much fun in trying out new components (if they work that is)

That was my inital question, I wanted to find out whether the OEM injectors spray straight, angled or ... I never removed the OEM injectors so I have no idea how far away the injctors are from the valves. And I could imagine that the Bosch injectors are of a more modern design, but this is pure speculation. Bosch states they're calibrated to max. 3% divertion .. is this good or bad? I think I will bite the bullet and go for Bosch and the fuel rail Cheers from London ..

Hello there, Thanks for the replies .. Yes, I would have a fuel rail with these injectors.

Hello there, I was just wondering if anybody has data on the stock injectors for the R33? I'd be interested in spray angle, spray pattern (cone / V) and deviation of the spray. As described here for the Bosch: http://www.boschdealer.com/specsheets/0280158117.pdf I'm remotely thinking about Bosch injectors (0280158117), but am unsure whether they are a good match. http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/144_146/products_id/1661 Any recommendations?

I always use battery water ( aka destilled water) + anti-freeze. Battery water contains no minerals, so that should keep any deposits stemming from minerals (limescale) out of the system. ...

I have the same plugs (though with a 2nd electrode) but no complains from my side. Cheapest option, copper, tried, tested, and proven

Hi there, I read about this somewhere, though I don't know who eventually bought Apexi up. Didn't Greddy and Trust go the same way? And yes, the R33 units are difficult to source and on high(er) demand so prices are up. (So I went Nistune )

So would you think the clip for securing the pin was never installed, or that the clip went and is somewhere in the engine?

Back then I searched high and low for a GTST version and actually one in eight seemed for the GTST, the rest for GTR. Nistune has a good 'maturity level', but since with Nistune the functionalities are many, there is always something people would like to see. As for data-logging and saving your maps I think that the PFC was too much clutter/boxes you needed to have. Nistune does it all! But don't get me wrong the PFC is a nice unit, shame they went belly up - otherwise they might have added an USB-port and all the other goodies.

It depends on what you want I guess. With Nistune you need a Laptop and the Consult-Cable .. But then it's Gameboy vs. Playstation. (so not really comparable though both let you play games) How do you access the connector for the hand controller? Do you have to remove the car panel in front of the ECU (PFC)? Here's another 'pro' for Nistune: PFC for the R33 GTST is really hard to find (and expensive) Further I think the development of the PFC is dead, Nistune is ongoing with constant software updates and quick support by Mr. Nistune himself .. Cheers ..

OK!

Nice, But is this really a PC, or is this just a 'mirror, of a connected laptop?

Again: Nistune is not a 'Chip' as in EPROM ... it's a daughterboard that sits in the original socket of the EPROM. After installation most parameters of the ECU are freely configured via the Nistune software. Further you can log engine parameters in realtine and store it on your laptop. I went for Nistune because I wanted to have various maps I could work with and store/alter them on my PC plus fancy realtimedata on my laptop. The PFC struck me as a closed 'shop' .. and I wanted to have out-of-the-box connection to other systems. (Nistune also supports wideband loging via external hardware) Knock maps do work on Nistune, just as the genuine ECU. In fact Nistune is all your ECU does plus changebility of every aspect you could dream of. I have an R33GTST with Z32 ECU and Nistune on it ... The only thing I am missing is knock detection in the software (but this is being worked on) Here's a good address for tunig Nistune (depending on where you live) http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/tuning.shtml Cheers ...

On a site-note here's another Chinese turbo which is too small I think (to be of interest to RB25) but what I find interesting is that they provide a good looking elbow with the unit .. So if Kando could to the same with their larger water cooled T3 units that would be a further incentive: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-R33-R34-RB20-25-TURBOCHARGER-ELBOW-/190470136288?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c58e7a1e0 Cheers from London ...

That's actually quite funny! I clipped the turbine wheels 100% .. much less backpressure this way ...

Haha .... Yes, nothing wrong with it, but I got strange looks from fellow citizens I like your garage ... very airy and no prying looks! Also close to the next fridge I suppose! BTW: Attached why I had to remove the turbo ..

Good point, yes .. I plugged every opening with a cloth .. Especially the pipes to the inter-cooler which are now wide open .. don't want any clip ending there, and then being vacuumed by the turbo ...

Alright, The Turbo is out .. Worst bit: The Water-Return-Pipe banjo bolt. Also the turbo to manifold bolts gave me much less trouble than expected, thankfully I had an ultra slim ring-spanner in my toolbox ... and it was even 17mm! The spanner did fit right over the nut, so I was lucky. I did not remove the dump-pipe from the turbo, it was not a problem getting the turbo out. (Just removed the 3 nuts from the downpipe to dump-pipe connection.) Would I do this again? Yes, but only in a proper garage ... not in an underground parking space. More later ... many thanks for the help ..

Yes, you are right .. now it is hard and fiddly. (unsure which part of the work I like better) I was meaning to remove the turbo yesterday, but had to buy 2 axle jacks first (poor excuse) But I removed further piping and also prepared the turbo by undoing the locking clamps. I remember when I first removed the cylinder head of my motorcycle, it took 4 hours. After some practise I was able to remove it and put it back on in one hour Cheers from London ..

Really? I thought (hoped) half way through ... But anyhow, everybody has a first time at everything and I will get there (eventually)

In 2 hours I got this far, I hope the turbo will be out tomorrow -> I'm surprised how tiny the turbo is and especially the diameter of the compressor-wheel looks really smallish .. I'm starting to wonder if it's really worth highflowing this thing

Cheers for that, I will also need a new unrestricted oil-line for the hybrid-turbo.

Sure I do believe you, I just hope I'm lucky ... Since this is going to happen in the parking garage I need to keep work as simple as possible, so I don't want to remove the manifold if possible ..

Hi there, So you just removed the dump-pipe from the turbo? This might have some advantages. I will see if that works for me since there are 6 screws which might be quite rusty... (compared to 3 nuts at the downpipe) As for the studs at the manifold, if there is a cracked one and it sheered right off it will be difficult to drill them out .. Checking the studs could be done by knocking slightly with a hammer on the nuts which hold the manifold. (at least in theory and from my experience with other cars) I'll count on my luck here I guess, there's no blow-by or anything funny ... and maybe the problem is not persistent with Spec2? (I'm sure there must be tons of mails regarding this, so I will do some (re)search. Many thanks and cheers from London, Andrew

If you put it this way, you're right. Though he will not need 6 hours but rather 3 since he is a professional and has done this many times. In addition the $$ go directly into his pocket and there is no invoice or official warranty ..