Torques

Here are my findings regarding a drop in replacement for the R33 S2 (GTST) (It took me some hours of research ...) I was unable to retrieve the technical data of the standard battery which sits in the rear, however judging from the size it should be around 35AH (that's Ampere Hours) and probably 260A cranking current. The much stated Micra battery would need new clamps since the poles are thicker compared to the standard once. I found out that the battery of the Honda Jazz (1.4D) (from 2002 onwards) fits in and provides about 15%+ more capacity since it is somewhat higher compared to the original one. Depending on the manufacturer of the battery, the Jazz battery is about .7KG heavier compared to the original. (Banner->10KG) If you have big Audio Amps in your car or you need improved reliability in Winter I would go for a bigger battery (which does fit in as well but needs new clamps fitted to the cables) I went for the Banner Brand (maybe unknown in OZ?) which is pretty good (made in Austria, supplier to BMW) The battery is maintenance-free and cost me around 60quid here in London. When fitting the new battery please start with connecting and tightening the POSITIVE POLE, this way you avoid short-cutting the thing with the wrench (against the chassis). I hope this is useful to anybody looking for a new and somewhat better battery If you have questions, just ask ... here are the pictures: New vs. old New vs. old New vs. old Battery bay Tight fit (please shift the battery as much as possible to the left so there is no stress on the GND-Cable (Yellow/Black) Honda Jazz Model Battery Technical data For example from Halfords (UK) (less capacity an 2KG compared to Banner)

Here you go ...

I am using the BLAZT cable (I bought that before I was even thinking Nistune), it works but has issues every now an then. So when recording a longer log it is mostly a matter of minutes till the connection gets interrupted. I would recommend buying the cable from Matt, it's money well spend and saves you much headache ..

Hello to the 'Northern Beaches' I will check your recommendation, maybe the used timing light was a cheapo one. It flickered helplessly like you said. Nonetheless I have to check the spark plugs anyhow ...

Hi! I started with Nistune 7 months ago. In this period I have become quite knowledgeable with regards to the Z32ECU and the R33S2. If you want plug and play then you are at the mercy of the tuner who is doing the installation. But I modified the Z32ECU myself (you need to be good at soldering) When I finally installed the Z32ECU, the car was not running well but I got enough support from Matt (Nistune) to get it decently running by mapping it myself. Eventually I brought the car to a tuner in the UK who did his best to get it 'tuned' on the dyno. After the tune the car was not what I expected and I was unhappy with the outcome. To make a long story short I now bough my own wideband device (links into Nistune) and will tune the car myself. I can recommend http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/ in OZ for advice / references. All in all Nistune is a very flexible system which comes at a good price and lots of support from Matt. Cheers, Andrew

Cheers for that ... Might be a good opportunity to check the spark as well (since I have to remove the cover) I would have preferred the 'white wire' though (lazy me)

Hello there, Since the SPEC2 has the power transistors in the coils I was wondering what's the best way of connecting a timing light? I recall that the SPEC1 has a white wire near the bulkhead where you should connect the timing light, but does this work for the SPEC2 as well? (Yes, I have the white wire on the SPEC2 too, but a timing light connected to it was helplessly off any beaten track) Many thanks ...

Hello there! As the starter of this thread I have found out that it was not R&R, but fuel cut. Once the ECU detects a certain load level it shuts down the engine by interrupting ignition and fuel. Since I have started this thread I got myself Nistune and all is sorted out now. I know a great deal more now about the ECU and I can recommend Nistune to anyone planning to increase HP over a certain level. Cheers ...

To the best of my knwledge: No! The Z32 ECU is supposed to run alright so Nistune (Matt) won't be doing this board .. R32 ECU = No Variable Cam Timing! Z32 ECU = Variable Cam Timing Works

Thanks guys .. I was a bit worried about the pops at low idle. And to contribute something to this thread: I am using these V-Line Spark plugs in my Skyline (on the right) VLine NGK on V-Line I have no idea if there is any advantage to multi electrodes, but on my motorcycle it really made a difference. (though I don't believe in Snake-Oil ) And here's a link from NGK with some videos included (technical advice on installation): NGK More:

I have standard copper BCPR6ES and the car misses a few beats at idle. At higher rpms I could not detect anything unusual. (running 14PSI) Is it normal that the car misses a few fires at idle? RB25DET Thanks and sorry for being slightly off topic. Cheers, Andrew

Thanks guys ... much appreciated And I presume I better disconnect the battery ... right? I will transplant a Nistune ECU (exciting) ... Let's hope the Z32 ECU is happy in it's new spot Cheers, Andrew

Hi there, I am about to change the ECU in my R33 .. Where is the ECU located and is it much work removing it? Many thanks .. Andrew

Silly me! Thanks ...

Hi there, I am about to fit a new Z32 AFM and came across this ad on EBay -> Z32 Adaptor I thought the Z32 was a drop in replacement (apart from the plug)? Is this adapter of any help? Many thanks, Andrew

Hi! There is no restrictor as such. The actuator is subdued to the manifold pressure unless the car reaches 4500 rpm or so. At this point the solenoid kicks in and reduces the pressure on the actuator, tricking the actuator into 'assuming' the boost is lower than actually is. The actuator is a 5PSI type .. Cheers, Andrew

Hi! Would you be able to supply compressor maps for your high flowed turbos? Cheers, Andrew

You are actually moving an engine from the wrecker in the trunk of a Skyline??

Hi! Would you recommend a high flow turbo, or rather buy a 'proper' one? Cheers, Andrew

But it's better build quality And what's wrong with German precision? M3s are no lame ducks either and then there are 335i with twin turbo. Arguably nice cars! The fun starts when you can smoke a Ferrari in the lower 12 sec range.

Thanks .. I know this one ... as I said there are a zillion posts about the topic. Some pictures from last weekend

Hi Guys, After doing some searching I got to this thread .. I'm looking for a turbo that fits right in (but wouldn't mind different water/oil line), spools up quickly (3000 rpm) and will keep me happy for a long time. My target is about 350-400hp at the rear. I want minimal lag! The car will be used on the road with some drives to the drag strip. I hear mixed things about these high flowed turbos. A company here sells these: High Flowed (I need compressor maps for these) I want to keep the internal waste gate. I know this has been debated a zillion times, but I just lost track of the many options. Thanks for your thoughts, Andrew

Hi! Well I can not argue with that, since I will not weld it shut. What I could do is disconnect the pressure hose from the actuator and see were the boost goes. (But I suspect it will be as before)

Hi! I think we have not established that. At least not with the RB25. I am using an EBC, and the controller tries to keep the boost at 14PSI by keeping the wastegate shut. But if the turbo can not deliver the required flow for the engine, the boost pressure will diminish gradually. The engine outflows the turbo and so the turbo can not keep the boost up. If we are talking boost we have to consider boost @ flow, right? So I contradict Cheers, Andrew

Hi! NP ... just have a bit of a read here: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...bo_tech101.html