Torques

OK, I got this myself: The hard line on the left is open ended and about 1.6 meters long. One end is connected via a t-check valve to the lower part of the canister. The other end ends near the middle of the door at the chassis rail

Ok cheers. I recently changed my box and out mt-90 redline in it I believe now that this may be the incorrect oil. Pushing 490kw through stock box also ahhhhhh No worries ... 490KW .... that will do Good man!

You mean Nissan oem oil? Hi there, Yes, the standard Nissan gearbox oil .. NISSAN MT-XZ GEAR OIL PASSENGER VEHICLES SAE 75W-80 KE91699932 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-NISSAN-MT-XZ-GEAR-OIL-PASSENGER-VEHICLES-KE91699932-1-LITRE/163151777634?epid=1315215982&hash=item25fc9a8f62:g:K-QAAOSwAldZ0lte

Quick question, would standard 52mm gauges fit into the R33 cluster, or are the OEM gauges non standard size? By 'fit' I mean with some adjustments to the cluster.... Thanks

Higher voltages from the AF than 4.5 will not cause limp mode. If for example you max out the AFM you'll be in 4.999V territory without any limp Idle is around .9V, that's possibly the range the ECU is looking at for failure

There's one hard line from the fuel tank attached to the top of the CC. But at the bottom, there's a rubber hose going straight down where it diverts via a t-connector (possibly a check valve) into a rubber hose and the hard line in question. Where does that hard line go to? According to the diagram there's only fresh air supply down there ...?

gotcha .. wrong page ... thanks ...

By 'no engine ever' I suppose you're talking RB? Yes I do, lived 4 year in Tokyo. From the manual there are indeed markings on that stick...

What is the correct max oil level on the dipstick when cold? I checked my manual but my dipstick doesn't have the two marks (yellow arrow) But judging from the illustration the oil level should be at the lower 30% of the marked area when cold? I always filled up to the upper mark but noticed that the engine is dumping oil via the PCV valve at this level. Thanks

Thanks!

I forgot which fuel line goes to the filter.. Was it the feed from the pump or the return line? I think it was the feed line, but just saw a picture where it was the other way round. Thanks! Insert other media

Cheers for that, I will use (for piece of mind) some sealant on the half moons. I'm using new gaskets so it should be fine otherwise. While at it I'm also getting rid of the OEM cover bolts/grommets.

Would you recommend to use bonding sealant on the half moon rubber grommets? Background: I'm replacing the cover gaskets / half moons and found the half moons to be bonded in while the workshop manual does not mention any usage of sealant. I also found some sealant on the cam belt side. What's your recommendation? Thanks

Yes, that's the best approach ... one run off, the other one constantly on.

Mate the chart is from Nistune, and I replied to your statement about the OEM R34 GTT I also do run the Z32TT ECU on NT .. so I think there is some overlap to your setup ...

You completely lost me here maaaate I merely stated what the OEM ECU does. 70C+, TP of 56, OFF @ 5400, and no fixed RPM for on No competition intended!

On the R34GTT the solenoid is activated via engine 'Load' which is called TP in the Nissan world. It is not engaged via an RPM trigger. It is disengaged @ 5400rpm. There's also a minimum temperature of 70C for the solenoid to work Effectively 'd say VTC kicks in at around 3000 if you were to put the pedal to the metal.

Yes, you're both right .. will try the source the stock one.

I'm looking to replace this hose, it is attached to a small distributor (see pictures) I think it goes to the throttle body. I was thinking of a somewhat more 'nice' hose/less rigid and less prone to ageing .. but silicone hoses are possibly not up to the coolant pressure. Any recommendations? Thanks!

OK, I didn't know that ... I only knew about their 'set on top' bulb which looks a bit funny That plenum costs serious money and I like my fuel rail ... https://plazmaman.com/product/rb25-r33-and-neo-inlet-manifold-full-billet-runner-6-injector/

Yes, all valid and true what you write. Without proper fluid dynamics simulation I suppose we'll never know for sure what's going on there. Possibly back in the day Nissan used trial and error designs to figure the best flow out. I'll possibly go for a different manifold at some point but I don't want to loose low to mid range which seems to be the case with the Greddy style intakes

Yes, the crusty bit will have to go ... just for esthetic reasons Funny, I thought on the Neo things would have improved ..

Yes, I agree .. removing these 'barnickles' might be more of a cosmetic procedure. (I'll still give them a quick smooth over) Extrude honing would be the way to go, but as you said 'it will cost a fortune' and is economically not viable. I'm not sure about the Reynolds number, after the air has passed through the FMIC and long subsequent piping it might not be that turbulent anymore? Btw. I have seen better casts on WWII engines ....

Would there be any benefit in smoothing the rather coarse intake runner (lower part) on an RB25DET? I think possibly not, but what's your opinion? That picture is for the last cylinder ..

Cheers for that!