Torques

Any opinion on the Cometic gasket vs. the OEM one? Background: I had to remove the upper half of the intake manifold and ordered a new gasket for the manifold. The OEM gasket is rubber based whereas the Cometic one is more of a solid nature. Thanks

You should possibly ask about that in the forum .. I have no experience with these boxes, but it might be worth looking into buying a GTT gearbox (and the clutch conversion) For R33 S2, the gearbox was changed 05/1998. The part number is 32010-21U60!

OK, thanks for that. I would assume that with development of the car (S1/S2/GTT) design changed would have been made. I read somewhere that the late S2 (so 1998) gearboxes have larger synchros .. (no confirmed)

What would be the differences between the gearboxes for S1/S2/GTT? Are they interchangeable, is one stronger than the other? I noticed that rebuild kits for S1 and S2 differ.. Thanks

Aren't they selling it anymore?

The car's odo is genuine. I bought it at 63K 6 years ago as the first owner. I got the Japanese factory logbook, exporter certificates and so forth. Though paperwork can be falsified the physical appearance support that. Headlights and windscreen are in mint condition , so is the interior (pedals, fabrics, etc) Car looks mint from below as well .. You don't have that with higher mileage cars. I doubt the gearbox was ever touched, but of course you never know.

no, the car has 70k on the odo

I recently changed over to the OEM gearbox oil. The gear changes were never as smooth before, I'm very happy with that oil and it's not expensive either.

My gearbox developed a whining sound in all gears. (louder under load) I changed the oil and there were metal shavings at the magnet. (more than what you'd expect to see ) After the oil change the whining noise almost halved and is barley noticeable. Shifting is smooth. I suspect either the counter shaft or input shaft bearings, is that a common thing with these transmissions? Any other usual suspects? The box has about 70K on the odo, has never been abused except for the occasional drag run. Power wise the engine makes about 290ish rkw Cheers Attached the picture of what the magnet caught.

Electric boot (trunk) release R33? Is there a drop in part available (from another Nissan maybe) that I could use to open / unlock the boot of my car via my alarm system remote? I already retrofitted the passenger side door actuator from a Micra ... so just wondering if there is a part that fits right in.. Thanks you ...

I was trying to get some information since got a new turbo capable of 24PSI@ 6500rpm which is a big step from the 15PSI of the old turbo. While being on a roller I found that the power curve went through some strange 'ditches' and I was wondering if that might be due to valve float. Valve float was not of any concern to me before simply because my old turbo was running less boost. I'll dial in 20PSI and run more timing to get a good baseline, from there I can work it up should I feel the need.

OK, thank you ... I'm usually not revving the engine highly , it rarely sees 6500 rpm. The limiter is set to 7000 rpm. The engine has 70k km on the odo, and poncams installed. I'll take your advice and will run 20PSI for the time being, other than on a dyno how can you tell you get into valve float territory?

RB25DET max 'safe' boost for valve springs? What would be the safe boost level before I get valve float? (intake valve not reliably closing anymore) Thanks

Thanks ... That's a shame but as you said it's better to use an after market rail then

Thank you, I was hoping the NEO rail would just fit in and save me the work of rerouteing fuel lines etc.

NEO Fuel Rail / EV14 -> RB25DET? (Top Feed Conversation)) Hello, I'm considering going top feed injectors on my RB25DET, I got leftovers EV14 injectors and could buy a NEO fuel rail very cheaply. My questions: Does the NEO fuel rail fit right onto the RB25(DET)? Do the EV14 injectors fit right into the fuel rail? What length of EV14 injectors do fit? Many thanks

Thanks for the input! I might be a bit picky with how work is done, but to me it looks like a no brainer to make as much space around the wheel as possible .. And yes, I was thinking doing just that with a Dremel. But the whole project had been going back and forth for a long time and I had the workshop appointment the next day. So I didn't want to take housing off again and wasn't feeling like masking the wheel with gaffer tape and then possible sliding off with the Dremel (if you know what I mean)

Yes, you're right but why not machine it through?

Machined out turbine OP6 housing on Hybrid .. I got the my OP6 hybrid back from the manufacturer but wasn’t too happy with how they machined the hole for the larger wheel. For some unknown reason they did not machine right through the housing and left a 1 mm sharp edge on one side. I think it will not impact the performance but on the other hand I don't understand why they left that excess material? I see soot build-up on that edge right away Any input welcomed!

R33GTST compressor side pipe diameter? What is the diameter of the pipe connecting to the compressor side via the (see picture) elbow? Thanks

OK, thanks!

Uprated Exhaust Manifold Studs?(RB25) I need your input on Exhaust Manifold Studs on RB25DET. Is there any benefit of using studs with longer thread on the cylinder head side? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Uprated-Set-Kenjutsu-Exhaust-Manifold-Studs-Nuts-For-R33-GTS-T-Skyline-RB25DET-/131706920826?hash=item1eaa581f7a:g:p1gAAOSwqYBWoLFN Or would those do as well: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311549029933?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/381681749962?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT None of my studs are snapped but I'm going to install a new hybrid turbo and I was tod that replacing the studs while at it would be a good idea. Thanks

Here's a picture of the gas passages OP6 / 21U OP6 definitely larger and possibly a more advanced design?

Thank you ... very helpful. Are both on RB25 (not NEO)? Both make same torque/HP (350NM) @ 3500 rpm, but boost is different? (10 PSI vs 18PSI)