Torques

OK, thanks .. Would anyone know how much 'preload' there is on these bars? I mean how much do I have to adjust the length of the connecting links? (with the car on the ground)

I mean for the price it should be top notch quality really ... it's a lot of money, almost what I paid for the sway bar itself

They look a bit skimpy at the connecting link (the straight part) but maybe I'm wrong. About AUD 150 in the UK and that is after a 10% discount

Hmmm .. aren't these the ones? http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/products/KLC109.JPG

Yes, you're right .. the Whitlines are very pricey and don''t look that convincing. I also found these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-X-NISSAN-SUNNY-N14-1990-1994-REAR-BACK-ANTI-ROLL-BAR-DROP-LINKS-/130864103104?fits=Car+Make%3ANissan&hash=item1e781bbec0 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-PATROL-1991-1997-FRONT-PAIR-STABILISER-ANTI-ROLL-BAR-DROP-LINK-x-2-/291282784503?fits=Car+Make%3ANissan&hash=item43d1ce90f7 But am unsure what dimensions (length) I need

Thanks for the replies .. I don't really like the hook and loop style ones and think the ball links are mechanically wise much nicer. (very expensive though)

Hi, Just wondering if these endlinks are worth their money as opposed to the supplied somewhat crude looking endlinks? (It's for an adjustable rear end swaybar on an R33 GTST) http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KLC109&sq=12993 Cheers Supplied endlinks

I'm purely posting this for entertainment reasons .. I came across these pictures while doing some research. The OP (from some forum I don't remember) wanted a '2nd opinion' on his turbine housing and was adamant his turbo was fine and making enough 'boost' (intending to keep his housing)

Air temperature / velocity / pressure are all linked together in neat proportional formulas. Just by looking at pressure drop without having the density (temperature) wont get you very far. That's why MAP sensors always need the air temperature to calculate actual air mass. I'm not saying the Blitz Return Flow Cooler is ideal, but it looks pretty well engineered,

When making pressure measurements you have to take the air temperature into consideration. The air before the FMIC is much warmer and hence less dense which attributes to higher volume / pressure. After the FMIC it's the inverse of the of what I just wrote.

It would be interesting to see a comparison between different FMIC to have a baseline But why would you say with an electronic boost controller attached the drop would be worse? Doesn't an EBC usually sample the manifold pressure and modulates the actuator/wastegate in order to maintain it's target boost? That would compensate for boost drop down the line, not exacerbate it.

Thanks, I would gladly use anther housing but it has to fit the standard manifold / dump mounts Any hints where I could find a replacement?

On inspection I found this hairline crack on an OP6 turbine housing. Is this still good to be used? Given that this parts takes a lot of heat I'm somewhat concerned about the crack getting larger. (but possibly that crack has been there for years ...) Any thoughts?

You are absolutely right. it would make not make much sense. I'm going to install in a new hybrid turbo I got for testing purposes. The hybrid comes with the smaller R33 turbine and I want to swap this turbine with the OP6 (R34 GTT) one. Stao (thanks!) already said the OP6 makes 20-30KW more power. I was just concerned about lag hence-why I asked for a dyno plot. The OP6 is said to have an A/R of .63 vs .50 for the R33 OP6 R33 Difference in turbine housing

Sorry to revive this but just interested to hear if there was any added lag or improvement switching to the NEO (OP6) turbine over the R33 turbo Thanks ..

Does anybody have a dyno of the GTT with OP6 turbo? (boost curve) I would like to see if that OP6 turbine introduces more lag compared to the R33 turbine.

Yes, the bend is still in the cards ... best practices solution

Agree a 100%, looks cheap.. also I'm not a huge fan of stubby silicone bits .. The welding option sounds like a good idea.

Charge tubing design affects the overall performance, so there are a few points to keep in mind to get the best performance from your system. Duct bend radius: Radius/diameter > 1.5 Avoid area changes, sharp transitions, shape changes I could possibly find some smoothly bend alloy tubes ( or even silicone ones)

Thanks, Didn't know you could buy these brackets off a store. As for the different terminals I was initially thinking of manufacturing new cables But if there is an adapter available that would save time and $$.

Thanks, I thought about this .. though 90 degrees sounds detrimental to airflow..

I'm planning on testing out a new hybrid turbo. This one does not come with the OEM turbine housing though, so it's just a round flange. What's the best way connecting the turbo outlet to the standard piping? Cheers ..

I'm thinking about getting a larger battery and singled out one which is about the same hight but somewhat deeper in dimension. This would also perfectly line up with the 2nd mount hole for the battery holding hook. The only problem is that the battery bracket (sitting on top) would be too short. Is there any Nissan I could possibly source a longer bracket from? Thanks

Here's the 345 kit http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=216747&page=3

Thanks, Do you have a link for that 330mm kit? Unique Auto Sports replied and the price is too steep for 2 brackets (AUD 380) (I get 2 good new rotors for that) Also I would need different pads because of 'overhang' These guys replied: http://db-power.co.uk/products-page/front-big-brake-kits/345mm-big-brake-kit/ And said the kit might fit under the GTR rims .. I will need to take some measures I guess.