VLT025

Front brakes and rims will be returned to stock this weekend and price dropped to $3500 if not sold by then

I'm happy to throw it in for some extra cash...and you can put it on if you like? I have had a fair bit of interest in this though and a couple of potential buyers so the price is firm. Any day during the week after 6:30 is fine, or tonight even if you want. Located in Elizabeth Vale. Cheers, Dre

$1200. They've had three months use from brand new...perfect tread too

Thanks mate, but not what I'm looking for

$4700 Firm I recently acquired this car as part of a trade for my Aristo. I MAY consider a trade with cash your way for a NEAT, STOCKISH S14/14A/180SX/R33 Turbo MANUAL with genuine low K's and no issues, but prefer a cash sale. MAKE SURE YOU INCLUDE DETAILS/PHOTOS and BALLPARK PRICE if you want me to look at trades. If it's a good car and a good deal I'm interested...hell, if it's a well worn shoe and you can convince me it's worth what you want for it....I'm interested. If you can't be bothered saying anymore than "are you interested in ____?" then no thank you...I'm not - S13, SR20 N/A...Factory black/5 Speed/Sunroof (no leaks!) - Shimmed VLSD fitted - Digital climate control (not sure if A/C needs gassing, but isn't cold) - 17x8/17x9 Drift Teks (+34 I think) NEAR NEW WITH PERFECT TYRES - Upgraded s15 4 pot brakes in the front - Jasma approved extractors 4-2-1 with full cat back exhaust - KYB damper adjustable struts - 204xxx but the engine goes and sounds great. Any test welcome - Crystal clear front indicators - Nearly three months rego Recently went through regency for non-standard steering wheel with no problems. Looks like it has had a minor front end bingle before, the gaurds and bonnet have been resprayed and look OK but not fantastic. Drives straight and true with no wobbles though, and engine and box are very healthy. Great cheap reliable car. Check out the clickable thumbnails below for a closer look. I may replace the brakes and wheels with standard items if someone wishes to purchase without these for a reduced amount, but I can't guarantee when I will have time to do this as I need some stock rims first. Call/SMS 0409 069 251 or contact me via the ad or PM Cheers, Dre

Interesting....I wonder why it would say that?? The ad suggests that perhaps FG and BA XR6 injectors are different, since it doesn't say they suit BA's...but if they got the NEO N/A and Turbo ones wrong, who knows??

SOLD!

The reason I ask is because I found these injectors on Ebay, and it says they suit XR6T and R34 but not N/A NEO engines...I'm wondering why?? If this is the case are there any other factory type injectors I could use as I don't see an abundance of R34 370cc injectors around...if they are even suitable http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT Taken from the add "IDEAL UPGRADE FOR: Ford's: XR6 Turbo, 4.0L Models: FG FPV F6, 4.0L Models: FG Holden's: LS2 genIV V8 6.0L, Models: VY, VE Nissan: Skyline R34 (exept non turbo NEO engines) The FORD FG TURBO AND SKYLINE R34 use different connector plugs, however we will supply you with the relevent connector's for your application."

Bump I currently have a couple of trades to consider...any more? Or take it as is,(still drives fine) with 3 months rego and suspension parts to make it Mickey mouse (ball joints, wheel bearing, LCA & adjustable caster rod bushes and coilovers) for $9500

I may be willing to throw a little cash on top now...for the right car

PM Sent

I'm looking for expressions of interest for my 93 JZS-147 Aristo. Selling because I'm looking for another investment property and would rather drive something I'm not constantly thinking about modifying! The car is very clean, paint/body is I would say about 95%, has had a fresh trans and shift kit put in (with reciepts) within the last 2000KMs by MV automatics, LED interior lighting and a stealthy POD filter made specifically for this car but is otherwise stock. Has had 100K service as well. Currently it needs new lower ball joints (They ALL do, Have these already, not installed), a couple of bushes and 1 front wheel bearing so I am not driving it, but this stuff can be sorted before the sale, as well as a set of Tein Super street coilovers installed and rego etc (current reg runs out on the 23rd sept) I have also installed a Recharged and modified Brake Nitrogen accumulator (refillable). This means that the 2 most common Aristo issues will have been fully sorted. All you really need is some pimp rims and a decent exhaust and this thing will be fantastic. In stock form (minus pod even) it was dynod at 173rwkw...I have never boosted it, but a proper exhaust will have it close to 15-16PSI on its own and well over 200RWKW. Many people have made over 250rwkw with the right tweaks... ON STOCK TURBOS! If you've driven/been in one of these you'll now they are super quiet and comfy on the inside, with plenty of poke (and even more potential!!) and ride quality and handling that embarrasses commodores/falcons etc of a much newer model. Some of the features of this car you may or may not be familiar with are: -Climate control -Cruise control -Electric windows/mirrors -Electric Seats -Electric steering wheel adjustment (with Switchable auto-retract) -Fully automatic headlights -Anti Hi-Jack central locking (has aftermarket alarm/turbo timer as well) -7 Speaker (plus 12" sub) factory sound system -Air purifier (that really works!) -12 interior lights -2JZ-GTE -Traction control ...and probably a bunch of stuff I have forgotten about lol ASKING $11500 o.n.o. or 9K firm AS IS, with 3 months regContact me on 0409 069 251 or via PM or this thread I am willing to look at swaps or trades (cash MY way) either to suit myself or my other half..as I don't really want to be without a car and shes driving my wagon at the mo Some options I will consider are: -Late model Falcon/Comodore sedans (preferably something that I wont be tempted to modify) -90's or later Corolla/Pulsar/civic/prelude/integra etc econo buzz boxes -Utes/Vans Or something interesting to amuse me for a few months if the deal is right. i.e. -SUPER tidy VL Calais/Turbo -Manual SR20 Silvias/ceffys/skylines Preferable are A/C, some kind of stereo and tint...and little or no issues! and I want details people...or I'm not interested. I've taken the time to tell you about my car...tell me about yours! Pics below, but comes with aristo stockies...not the wheels pictured More pics here: http://s74.photobucket.com/albums/i261/bec...risto/?start=20

you have a PM

Easy plug in and go for most nissans and late model imports. There is also an article I did in the tech section that shows you how to add a diagnostic port to any RB25 Powered car. May be applicable to other RB engines also

Bump

Jaycar Digital Fuel Adjuster Built from a jaycar kit. bult it myself works great.needs hand controller. dont need it now i have my power fc $20 Post to SA?

Item:Bosch Internal Aerial Condition:NEW Price:$60 To Fit:Any Car Location:Adelaide SA Contact:Andreas 0409 069 251 Comments:I've sold my car and now have no use for this. Ideal solution for anyone who has gotten rid of the factory aerial and smoothed the hole over. Brand new Valued at $99. Can post anywhere in Aust for $10 Registered or arrange pickup

Item:Greddy intelligent Informeter Condition:As new Price:$250 To Fit:All nissan with diagnostic port and OBDII equipped Imports (Post '95 I think) Location:Adelaide SA Contact:Andreas 0409 069 251 Comments:Awesome little ECU display unit capable of displaying up to 6 functions at once with instant and maximum values. Can display as circle meter/Bar and Graph etc. Many many options. Some of the options displayed include; -Temp -AFM voltage -Injector duty cycle -RPM -Speed -Voltage etc, etc Basically anything your ECU knows, this will display it. Simple plug and play operation....This includes cable to suit OBD2 and Nissan style diagnostic port Can send via registered post for $12 or pickup from wayville area during business hours or Northern suburbs after hours

Should be cool, we're playing on the local stage at the same time as the Hoods, which is the only shit thing. I've heard the show they're doing plenty though....they've been practising with lowrider at my work. But looking forward to seeing RATM and Karnivool. Pretty crap lineup overall though

Hey guys I know this thread has been done to death, but after reading through every page of all these threads and having the same problem myself this is what I've believe to be true. Most if not all of these problems seem to stem from the engine struggling to produce spark for 3 reasons; 1- First and foremost, too much fuel due to R&R effect when running higher than factory boost with exhaust/cooler upgrade 2- Too much fuel = plugs that foul quickly and cannot fire properly. Sure you can replace/re-gap etc but they will foul again 3- Extended periods of driving while struggling to produce spark at plug = spark looking for another way out = coils cracking and arcing out If you think about it, this is why people are always finding that the quick fix isn't permanent. If you don't stop the engine from overfuelling, all of these other issues will surely re-occur. If you can attack this first, your plugs should last longer and be able to run larger gaps...and hopefully, your coils will last longer too...even if you have to go for the taping/araldite solution initially. If you think of it simply, the spark will go wherever take the least amount of effort....in short - try and make sure that place is your combustion chamber! With regard to plugs, I have found the NGK R5671A-7's to be the best things around and they're like $4 each. They have the tip recessed further into the plug to help prevent the spark from being blown out and were recommended to me by an RB specialist who has uses these in every engine he comes across and has had great success every time. In fact, my car WOULD NOT boost past 10PSI no matter what I tried until I put these in. It still mis-fires at anything over 9-10PSI but I still have a stock ECU, like a lot of the cars with these problems

Re-map I reckon. Cheap n good when done right. Dr Drift, Speedlab, Toshi etc all do em. Do a search

How much are these ex XR6T turbos going for? Could be a cool low cost option for some big power... I know that the VL/RB30ET brigade love them

Not sure what you mean about not being able to remove the ecu, I would use some kind of plug for anything that was wired in that way. Feel free to share your tricks....The main problem I see with soldering to the loom is the lack of access to the cables that might be in the middle of that big fat loom cable. I felt that some kind of undesirable use of force would be required.....

Don't stop now guys. This was getting interesting.....

Has anyone tried heatshrink?