VLT025

Have you tried doing that? It gets messy pretty quickly. I'm sure it can be done and is certainly an option but this was the easier way. At least for me

Recently I found out that although my RB25DET powered car has a factory skyline loom, the Diagnosis, or Consult port was not in the car. This has something to do with the part of the loom not being required because it is attatched to the body control module.....or something.:confused: This was slightly annoying as I had just gotten a shiny new toy that displays what all of the factory sensors are doing, and uses this plug to connect to the ecu.... This also applies to anyone wanting to use a consult cable/software package, or anyone wanting to take a car with a problem to a workshop for diagnosis. Anyway, after making a few calls it seems that not many engine conversions have this port, unless it was specifically though of at the time of the conversion. So here is a list of what you need to make your own factory style diagnosis port - without hacking into your loom. I realise that most people that undertake engine swaps are a clever bunch...but for those like me that need a little help, here's how to do it. Please excuse the photos, I had to use my phone to take them 1-Soldering iron with a fine tip (Preferably with temp control too) 2-A Nissan diagnostic port (found in most 89-96 Nissans, usually located near the drivers knee, just above the fusebox inside the car.) Most wreckers will be able to help you there. 3-some wire that is a similar guage to the stuff coming out of the plug so you can extend it sufficiently. (preferably colored the same as well!) 4-Heat shrink 5-The following link (for the pin locations.) Fortunately there are only 5 pins you need to worry about (The One Marked CHK was not needed for the greddy unit, but you may need it for consult. It's Pin 47) http://d1nz.org.nz/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1...9cc005368ab3525 6-Small cable ties Start off by removing the ecu found under the passenger side kick panel. There will be 1 or 2 screws holding it to the body, and a bolt holding the loom in.. Then you need to open up the ECU to expose the inside of the corresponding pins that you will need to tap into being 21 & 22(diagnostic RX/TX) ,31(CLK), 45 & 50 (IGN/- or Pos/Neg) & 47 (To be sure-CHK) Some of these numbers are visible inside the board and are usefull for working out which angle you are looking at! Be sure to double & triple check that you have these right!!!! There are four main screws and a few for the mounting points At this point it would be a good idea to make your extensions to the ports wires. Where possible use the same colour wire, heat shrink and cable ties to make it neat and easy to relate to the correct pins. I also spliced the power and earth cables for a future Fuel piggyback install. If you do this, be sure to insulate the bare ends. Ok, heres the fiddly bit. Solder the wires to the corresponding pins so that they end up pointing upward. This can be a bit tricky unless you have three hands, because you want to try and get a solid connection quickly so as not to melt the plastic around the pins. Fortunately all but one of the pins are on the outside (look inside the ecu & you'll see what I mean) & so access is fairly easy. For the one that isn't (31) you can solder your wire from the other side of the board, on to the circuit board itself, and thread the wire through the conveniently placed hole to the other side. ALWAYS TAKE CARE TO MAKE SMALL NEAT JOINS THAT DON'T TOUCH EACH OTHER as they're all pretty close together in there. (Note I didn't have any black wire so I used the white stuff for my earth as well) Now just neaten all the wires up with some small cable ties. I separated the spare power/earth ones and put a small amount of heat shrink on the ends. You will also need to make a small opening in the ECU cover for these wires to come out of. I used a dremel to grind away a small section on the edge of the lid. If you do not have a small rotary tool of some sort you may be able to use a drill and some files?? Then just finish off putting the covers back on and install as per the reverse of step 1 & voila! 1 Diagnostic port equipped VL:D You can see a couple of the functions of this greddy unit below, and if you have consult you will be able to Data log for longer and more accurately, and have a better display, but this little Informeter is a handy little portable device that can be installed quite neatly to most cars and it has a sh1t load of useful display/logging modes. Can be had for as little as $270 delivered. I hope some of you will find this helpful. Let me know if you feel I have left anything out or would like more info. I'd be happy to help

are you guys taping the round part of the coil? anyone tried Heat-shrink? That would seem to be a good option thats easy to remove should you want to later....

I would think you'd pretty close with just a tune/boost increase and a FMIC. AFM bypass is a good cheap way to flow more air while still metering accurately also. Issue 318/319 of autospeed.drive.com has a good article on it.

Mate I reckon you've taken the smartest path to 200(+) Rwkw's. there are people who've gone and spent thousands on power FCs/Eboosts/$1500 intercoolers etc only to make less than that. Go the remap ECU I say! There's no reason you can't get to the power limit of the factory turbo and injectors without spending big bucks. Good work :sorcerer:

What kind of power gain do you figure these two items give you? I was thinking of a similar setup, as it's quite a cheap option with seemingly a fair amount of flexibility

Not wanting to get into an argument here, but I don't believe electronics are the japanese strong point. They excel from a basic engineering standpoint with the build quality and tolerances of their motors. Look at most Jap vs Aussie motors and you'll see that the Ford/holden built motors are the ones who use/leak oil etc, while it's the japanese cars that always have failing electronic components (oddly enough). PFC's are so popular because the Japanese have been using them for a long time & get easy and consistant results with them but really they are just a basic adjustable standard syle ecu. Then look at some of the aussie cars using Shit low tech motors and Aussie made ECU's and tuning knowhow, and they break all the rules. V8 supercars is a good example of a basically shit motor tuned within a inch of it's own life. Short answer is PFC = Easy option/Path well travelled Don't mean to offend anyone. Just my two cents.... I realise this may be considered an unfair generalisation, but it rings true in a lot of cases

Do a search with this item number.... 280069286936

Yeah that one was a bit of a freak though. I missed out on an earlier one for $345 but got a V-AFC2 instead for $150. 27/01/07 In case anyone was thinking of using one, it would pay to note that VAFC's don't work on AFM equpped cars, that explains why it was cheaper, but go figure, I put it back on ebay and it sold for $313....weird

Theres a guy on ebay who sells these from cars out of japan. Some are mines, some are Jun, theres a bunch of different tuning houses doing them. Claims the boost and speed cut are removed with more aggressive timing maps, but safe on 98 octane They usually go for 300-450 but the last one went for more than $800! Cray z... Just thought I'd share that...

Could this just be an R&R problem? Seems probable to me. My freaks out on 9-10 PSI

I would be keen for a Digital fuel adjuster & cable ASAP if anyone cancells. Let me know

I'd be interested to know if this gain was due more to the ability to run more boost, or just A/F tuning, as I have built the hand controller and am about to get the DFA. this is what my A/F looks like at 9psi. I'd love to get an extra 20-25RWKW with a bit more boost

Yeah should be simple enough. There are a few guys who can remap RB20 ECUs and if your RB25 is a series one you can use the RB20 computer remapped to suit, as they take removable chips. Talk to Dr Drift & he may know of someone close to you. As far as cost gos, It shouldn't be much more than a std Microtech/Wolf etc tune and there are benefits with using a factory style computer

S2 RB25DET 184RWKW (@5900ish RPM) Stock Turbo/ECU FMIC Turbo Back Exhaust HKS Pod Filter 9PSI showing on guage Hit R&R pretty bad at about 5000rpm

So how much do the factory ones flow? ;P I guess because it varies so greatly depending on revs, it would be difficult to compare them directly to a thermo, which for the most part is 0 cfm or (insert manufacturers claim here)cfm. you would think that 3000 + CFM would not be unlikely at peak revs though.....