EVIL TWIN

Hi peoples, If there's anyone out there wrecking a V35 Skyline, I'm looking for a drivers side external A-pillar trim, factory silver (big surprise there...) if at all possible. Some genius tried to get the window down with a srewdriver or something but just ended up cracking the trim panel instead. Wreckers haven't been any help, so please let me know if you (or know of anyone) have one for sale. I'm in WA but don't mind paying for interstate shipping. Much appreciated Cheers, Lloyd

You'll need a couple (one for each pipe) of centre mufflers or silencers/resonators. That's the only way you'll get it quieter without changing the rear mufflers, which look too nice to change.

I wasn't saying it wasn't any good, just not AS good. Just going off info I have read on these forums and magazines, I was lead to believe that the RB26 block had extra internal bracing to handle second (or third? can't remember) order harmonics present in the high end of the rev range (not entirely sure what revs, but somewhere around 8000). The RB30 was never meant to rev past about 7000, so as long as you don't go that far, the extra bracing probably isn't be needed. The RB26 however is designed to rev to over 8000 where second order harmonics are present, so the extra bracing was added to handle it, even as far as 10,000. The same can not be expected with an RB30 block. Now I don't pretend to know much about engine harmonics, I'm just regurgitating what I've read, so if any of that is off, I'm qhite happy to have it staightened for me

yikes! 30k for OS kit?! I had no idea! Oh well, the 2.8 sounds like the way to go then

I don't have any personal experience with this since mine is still 2.6L, but if the 3L appeals to you, rather than using an RB30 bottom end (which isn't as strong as the RB26 due to lack of internal bracing), how about an OS Giken 3L kit? It actually uses a big spacer between the head and block, increasing the stroke and retaining the RB26 bottom end. The HKS 2.8L kit would probably get you what you want if you had smaller turbos (from videos I've seen with 2530 or 2540 turbos) but the OS 3L would get the 28 series or larger turbos spooling much quicker to get your punchy torquey mid-range. I would personally probably go the OS 3L or HKS 2.8L before a RB26/30 hybrid. From what I've heard, a HKS V-Cam system (variable valve timing on inlet side) would help in that area also, but I don't know if you can actually get hold of one. On one of my Hot Version DVD's Keichi Tsuchia drives an R34 with it turned off and then turned on, and it made a big difference to the rate of acceleration. It had a TO4Z though.

Yeah, his is a series 1, so cool, I'll give it a go. Thanks!

Hey guys, Just wondering if anyone knows, are R32 GTR coil packs the same as R33 GTS25t coil packs? I've got a dickie one on my R32 and my neighbour has some spare R33 ones. Can I use one of his in my GTR? They look the same, but I want to be sure. Cheers

OK, now this is a little exteme, but it doesn't look like you have much option and it just may work. Failing having a proper mechanic look at it, if it is indeed a leak, check for it by taking all the piping off from the turbos to the inlet manifold, including the intercooler. Put them all back together on the ground. Now you can check a couple of ways. If you have a pool, get a leaf blower or similar, seal it on one end, seal up the other end, and drop it in the water. Turn on the blower and look for air bubbles. Just like finding a puncture in your bike tube. Bush f**kanics at it's best! If no pool, seal a water hose to one end and seal the other end up. Turn on hose and look for water leaking out. You might be able to do this one with everything still on the car by taking off the connection of the pipe you replaced and the connection to the inlet manifold, but it might be a little hard to see where the water is coming from. Don't forget to dry it out completely before re-installing! If it's not a leak, but is one of your turbos, then the replacements will have to do, but get them checked first. Also might want to check if your wastegates are stuck open or BOVs are stuck open?

Aren't the R33 and Z32 both 80mm? I thought the only difference was the Z32 had more scope for higher resolution at higher air flow. Therefore, if you're sucking standardish air that is still in the scope of the R33 it should still be OK? Just thinkin out loud since I'm not 100% on the specifics!

Yep, that's the winner! ^^^^

I guess it is Ok to go 10,000 but just keep in mind, turbos give oil a hard time, and if the car is driven in anger (don't kid yourself, it's a performance car for exactly that), the oil is given a hard time more often, so you want the oil changed before it starts to degrade. Servicing every 5,000 ensures this doen't happen. So while 10,000 is not excessive and may be OK, 5,000 is better.

For the central locking thing - On a stock car, the passenger side has a relay and motor that locks/unlocks the door when the drivers lock is activated with the key. When a central locking remote is added, you need to add a motor to the drivers door as well, so it also can be activated electronically like the passenger door when you hit the remote. I would assume that the motor wasn't put in drivers door or it has been wired up incorrectly, so it does the weird things you guys are mentioning!

It's actually to tell if the cat is blocked or collapsed. As mentioned, it's a temperature sensor, and if the cat does collapse or get blocked it will overheat and trigger the dash light, and does nothing if not connected.

It's probably just been painted

pretty much