oweban

How much are you looking for for the dash cluster? Only really need the tacho/boost gauge out of it.

Anyone got one of these? Been trolling the FS section and just can't find one dammit.

Adding in cause I can: 2527 represent (hah). Only really get to drive on weekends now though.

He adjusted something up like at the top/back of my clutch pedal; ill take a photo tomorrow morning and see if i can work out what he did. I'd say it'd be the same.

I sooooo have to come to the next one.

Yeah, that's what my mechanic was telling me... Guess I know now I'm just happy that it's not a $1400 job.

Not sure, I'll have to take it for a long drive next weekend. Going around near home isn't enough to get it up to temp, I don't think.

Ok, went and saw my mech: He adjusted something under the clutch pedal (or near it) which allowed the fluid to move through, apparently. My clutch always used to be rock hard all the way down,now it has a bit of give before it engages. Apparently that give allows it to....shit something or other. Basically now I can move the pedal in freely for a while and then it feels hard (clamp), whereas before, as soon as i started pressing down on it (needed a lot more force than just resting foot on it to do so), it would engage. Yay!

Yeah, my new mechanic (not the guys who installed it) was my next stop, to rip it all open and see what's going on. If it needs adjusting, great, if it's the whole thing, I'll be giving Jim Berry a call next week. Just thought I'd check anyway, just seems odd that after I do a hard/long turn it comes good again for a bit. When the car's cold (driving less than half an hour I mean) it won't ever slip. Weird, huh.

Almost ever since I got my latest clutch installed (Exedy Sports Organic) I've noticed that when it gets hot after driving in a straight line, if I want to put the boot up it it'll feel like it slips heaps, and car doesn't really go anywhere. This was about 2 years ago now, and so I've noticed something finally today driving down the Hume Highway; after I turned off the exit and took a fairly sharp left turn, then planted it, it grabbed immediately. It proceeded to slip a bit after driving along a long set of straights, then after doing a big long righthand turn, the next plant went well. Am I correct in assuming that there's a problem with gearbox oil? I think I saw some seepage around that area when the car was up on the hoist last, and it seems by taking the turn, it'd slosh it around a bit? If I'm totally wrong, please let me know; I want this sorted out ASAP as I've got a new ECU incoming.

I used a metal ring clamp thingy to attach the pump to the bracket after cutting it, and it fits fine Just gotta wiggle it around a bit. And yeah, new fuel hose is good; just get stuff the same size, it's fair cheap. Turns out I had a Walbro GSS 341 in there; now sitting here doing nothing

Thanks mate, take your time. No rush on it.

If you're still running stock ECU/FPR/injectors, no, I'm pretty sure it's all sweet. I'm having the Adaptronic ECU installed at the moment, and I don't think it needs to adjust... but when I upgrade my inj/fpr/turbo, I'll have to make modifications to the flowrate.

Airbox snorkel available?

Don't suppose you have the snorkel lying around too?

I've got the thread saved, so I'll upload them all in this post. I did this but didn't sit the bracket down properly, oops. Does anyone else have quite a loud pump noise when turning ignition to ON but not turning the car on just yet? Heh. All good.

Hi there; I've had a set of LM GT3's since I got my car; they're all 18x9 and +26 offset (just had them all checked while they're being fixed; some of the stickers have come off while washing). I've got an S1 R33 GTS-T, and with 255's on the rear they pop out slightly from the guards. No big deal, D2 coilovers with zero spring movement, but I'm looking at softening the suspension soon; I'd like to be able to go on a drive more than half an hour without my back hurting from constant bumping EVERYWHERE. A few questions about this though: 1) Is this an ok offset for the GTS-T? I had 275's front and rear when I got these, but on 235's on front now... Just trying to get that sorted out. 2) Had a look at topstage.com.au and it seems they do the kind of thing I'd be after; actually pumping the guards out a bit so they'll fit smoothly under. The guards are already rolled (I think that's what it's called? Basically the metal inside that's at the 90 degree to the body is pushed back up inside the body against the metal. So assuming the left of this post is the inside of the car: \| (well really even more pushed against it than that) instead of _| To do this, would they need to respray the entire rear quarter? Or is that kind of thing paint-crack-less? Has anyone had this done and around how much does it cost?

Sold, thanks for all the PMs, unfortunately parents managed to sell it for me before I posted this and didn't bother to tell me until I got home last night.

Selling this as I've got my iPhone 3GS now (yay work). For sale: Nokia N95 8Gb. Got via Optus plan approx 1.5 years ago; has always been housed in one of those clear plastic cases to prevent damage; however not from scratches, so I'll be putting a brand new Original Nokia case on it (normal colour, Black. Still on order). Has been reset to factory settings, and flashed with latest firmware. Price and price conditions: $300 ono Pictures: No pix yet until the new case comes in, then I'll take some photos. Contact Details: PM, can't answer mobile very often. Location: Albion Park Rail, NSW. Can deliver, I think delivery is around $10 or so for Registered Post. As the new case hasn't arrived yet (should arrive within a few days), the phone won't be available to send out until then, and then I'll post photos and if the buyer is still happy with it, I'll send it out the next day.

Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it Now that I've got my boot completely empty in preparation for my new boot install, I'll take a look this weekend. Would be nice to know how far a quarter of a tank gets me (not very far I guess). While I'm at it, might as well install my Bosch 040.

My LM GT3's slid out in the wet today (well more aquaplaned) and said hello to a gutter This kinda stuff's fixable right? I called Magman, and I'll have to email him pics to get a quote... Not cracked, just needs rolling out, and the rest welding or whatnot. I explained to him they're the Nismo rims... Also, Steve: Not sure those are legit LM's. I'm pretty sure they didn't make them in 16". I may be wrong though.

In my S1 R33, the fuel gauge is currently reading full until I hit around 180km (less or more dependant on driving, more for highway, less for when I'm in a bad mood), and I don't really know how it works so that I can fix it. From what I've seen, the sender for it is a long kind of bar that goes in the tank, and as I'm replacing my fuel pump with a Bosch 040 next weekend, thought I might do this too. The picture attached is how I kind of figure it works, the left is normal and the right is what I think may have happened, it's come loose at the top and is laying down against the side, so when the tank is full, the float is stuck at the top until the tank level gets down to there. This happened after a skidpan day at Oran Park in May 2007 so almost 2 years ago now, I think it's finally time to fix it. Anyone with any ideas, this would be greatly appreciated.

SOLD Pending payment! Thanks for the interest guys

UPDATE:: Works on all ECR33's, S1, S1.5 and S2.

ITEM: Apexi Power FC + Hand Controller, suits ECR33 S1 GTS-T (Currently in a 1993 model) PRICE: Looking for $900, however price is *slightly* negotiable. Given that brand new from JustJap they're running for $1995, I think this is a fair price. REASON: A few reasons: I'm taking things back to stock; don't need the extra power anymore. I commute via train to work, so she only gets driven on the weekends. Also moving out soon, so need any and all cash I can get. LOCATION: Wollongong, NSW. Can post anywhere in Australia (buyer pays postage, should be like $20 TOPS), or available for pickup during work hours from Camperdown. CONDITION: Hand controller has a mark on the screen; in no way interferes with the operation of the unit and you can still see all the data fine. Looks like it might be a glue stain? Was there when I got it though. I'll also post up a video of me resetting the unit tonight (last tune was with a clogged AFM, so the current tune is balls. Trust me, reset will be better) so that you can see it actually working (to avoid comments of "does it work?"). My apologies to the guy who was interested last time I had this up for sale; the stock ECU I had ended up dying (eg. wouldn't kick over and HICAS whining constantly), so I needed it