prescott06

They're actually from a Putty road drive we did a couple of weeks ago. Haven't driven Nasho yet First pic makes me sad at fail wheel widths/offsets. Im thinking of getting the LMGT2's modified to be 1" wider and 1" less offset

Finally got some good shots of mine:

Ha ha ha, yeh. Lots of fun that was

In like that Flyn dude!

The whitline ones I used we'rent any good either I was lucky to come across stock R34 items that were in OK condition and used those. I'll be interested to see if you can find anything good.

If the weather is good (i.e good enough to warrant washing cars) then we'll be at palmie (me + 2 more skylines)...

I'm looking for a pair of R33 GTR front seats in decent condition. Preferably in Sydney, but I'm willing to pay postage if the price is right. Give me a call on 0424180029 if you have anything. Cheers, Tom

Interested in the front seats if your willing to separate and ship to Sydney? Have you got any pics of the seats too?

If you have all the dimensions etc, it really should only take a couple of minutes to draw up an exhaust flange...

The R33 rear brakes have a drum type hand brake built into the inside of the disc. If your fitting new brake pads get the discs machined as you normally would. If your fitting hand brake shoes, you might struggle to find somewhere that will be able to machine the inside drum, you might have to go to an engineering shop (if your in Sydney I can tell you where to go). If your fitting the project Mu shoes, chances are its because you want to use the hand brake for drift. If this is the case, i suggest you get them machined as they are usually very glazed and still won't really lock up otherwise. I've machined the drums before on a lathe and without changing the shoes and noticed an improvement in the handbrake locking up (though it didnt last long as the stock shoes glazed them up again quite quickly).

You should be able to get the Bilsteins at Repco for under $300 each And I'd pick the bilsteins over the Koni's. Not because they're 'softer' but they'll suit a wider range of spring rates and perform very well for the money (I run them in mine).

Best way to check whats bent is to measure length of arms etc and compare it to the other side. I did this with mine, only to find all the arms we're fine so there was nothing to replace. I had no other choice but to go aftermarket arms (adjustable bushes won't give enough adjustment). Your right though, rose jointed arms on a street car is a bit annoying, though it wouldn't be difficult to swap the rose joints out and have bushes pressed in instead. I just check mine regularly and re-tighten bolts as necessary.

I'll take the strut brace. Dont suppose you have those floor matts still, or did they go with the car? Let me know where your located, I can pick up tonight or whenever.

We might drop by with the 180 nugget after private practice if breaking in the new motor goes well

I have these arms in my daily R33. I had issues with bolts starting to come loose the resultant knocking noises etc, but nothing too major. I just modified the bolts (that bolt the arm to the chassis) so they had an extra lock nut where they stick through into the engine bay. If you spend a little time fitting them, use locktite, extra lock nuts etc they work ok. Can be a bit of a pain to adjust though (my tyre guy hates me now ) Also, there aren't a lot of other options unless you can afford the expensive cusco or ikeya formula arms. EDIT: Check first to see whats bent, it might not be the upper arm thats damaged.