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Everything posted by prescott06
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Yeh, i dont know of anywhere near me (northern beaches) that would be open tomorrow though?
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I know this is a bit OT, but i reckon you guys might be able to help me... I just managed to bend one of the leaf springs on my car trailer. Reversing onto the front yard i drove over a pair of rims i had left sitting there. One got stuck between the wheels on the trailer and forced the axle forwards, bending the spring Slam Anyone know if i can straighten it out without weakening them/risk it breaking later on? I have an oxy torch/forklift/gear at work... Otherwise I have to try and find a replacement tomorrow so i can still make it on Sunday :curse: I think supercheap have trailer stuff, not sure if they have springs tho?
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McCarrs creek Road is good, as long as people driving skylines dont out brake themselves and hold up the traffic... *waits for Cassbo to see this thread *
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Yeh, I realise that was a little optimistic. I was just going on the redbook price thingy, which said $4500-$5500... Price dropped to $4500 or offers, we need to sell it asap. Make an offer?
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Make: Toyota Model: Celica Milage: ~240,000 Transmission:Auto Colour: Burgandy Location: Northern Beaches, Sydney Currently registered? Rego till end of September Price: $5000 or offers Contact: Sheri: 0439405778 Comments / Modifications: Very well looked after car, mechanically perfect. A few minor dings/scrapes, nothing major. Would make a great 'sporty' daily. Images:
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Is it possible to use a L2NS, or would I need a L2S? I might head down with Cassbo and take my E30 bmw for a spin (thats if eurotrash is welcome )
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S13, S14, S15 And Some Skyline Parts
prescott06 replied to DRF72's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
I'll give you $100 for the Sr20de loom and clutch line if you could post them to Sydney (2100) Cheers, Tom -
We're looking to buy a car trailer to suit a smallish car. Doesnt have to be in great condition, we're looking to spend between $1k to $2k. Needs to be in NSW, preferably Sydney. My number is 0423977008. Cheers, Tom
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Assortment Of Nissan Gear
prescott06 replied to DRF72's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
I'll take one SR20DET starter motor and the S13 Loom if you can post to Sydney (postcode 2100)? -
Complete Rb20det For Sale
prescott06 replied to J32's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Hi, You wouldnt be interested in a swap for a set of S13 coilovers? They're Cusco Zero-2r's, good condition etc? I'm just round the corner from you also -
Rotors,hubs,calipers, Starcorp Rims
prescott06 replied to ctf_r33's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Where abouts in Sydney are you? I'm after a front passenger side LCA... You don't happen to have a tie rod end do you? Cheers. Tom -
Nsw: R31 Drifter Wagon Fs - Now Wrecking
prescott06 replied to prescott06's topic in For Sale (Private Whole cars only)
Guys, had no interest so im now wrecking it, lots of drift goodies: http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php/topic,97466.0.html Cheers. -
Nsw: R31 Drifter Wagon Fs - Now Wrecking
prescott06 replied to prescott06's topic in For Sale (Private Whole cars only)
I'll start stripping it this Sunday if I get no interest.... Already got buyers for a few parts. Cheers. -
Nsw: R31 Drifter Wagon Fs - Now Wrecking
prescott06 replied to prescott06's topic in For Sale (Private Whole cars only)
It actually grips very nicely, because its not over powered. Feels very balenced to drive through the twisties, although it can get a little unsettled over the bumpy parts. Posting pics now -
Make: Nissan Model: R31 Skyline Wagon! Milage:340k+ Transmission:Manual Colour:Blue/Black Location: NSW, Northern Beachs Sydney Complied? Aus delivered RWC supplied? nope Currently registered?Yep, till the 3.7.08 Price:$3000 or offers Contact: Tom on 0423977008 Comments / Modifications: Basically, its all out drift spec: Cusoco Zero-2R Coilovers (very good condition) 10/8kg spring rates S13 front gear - LCA's, brakes, hubs etc, modified R31 tie rods Custom rear suspension set up (strut towers and bracing) Extractors to a 2 1/2" exhaust with a straight through muffer (not a cannon) Fixed back bucket seat (adr approved) and 4 point harness (adr approved) Stripped interior. All deadening now removed, interior painted grey, and alloy checker plate kick panels in the front foot wells Mini spooled 4.11 diff VR commodore rear calipers and PBR pads Fully hydro handbrake Resprayed blue and black, done kinda badly by me (although i used the proper equipment it was about 40 degrees when i did it Roll Eyes), easy fix. 3 sets of rims - one set (pictured on the car) with one pair of 'useable' tyres, a set of steelies (need new tyres) and a set of very lightweight oldschool 17's, will come with Dunlop 215's with very legal tread Dual rear sway bars Fire extinguisher Stainless intake pipe with 3A Racing air filter Brand new windscreen (cost me $340) Also has an Emanage blue which is installed and running (not tuned though, just put in in preparation for a turbo set up). Currently set up for AFM and timing adjustment, not hooked up to injectors I've worked really hard on this car, and its a shame to get rid of it. But i don't get to use it nearly enough for the amount of money i have spent on it. Also, i really could use the funds towards my other baby (my daily 1984 323i BMW). I guess it might suit someone looking to get into drifting, it's a very fun car to drive and could easily keep up with the N/A sedans given the right driver! Otherwise it might suit someone looking for drift/spare parts to apply to their r31 sedan? Images: /b] Cheers
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i only plan on changing the tyres on our drift cars, both of which are 114.3*4 stud pattern Why would anyone else trust me with their tyres? :laughing-smiley-014:
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Yeh, been looking at that too (although its hard with ghey capped broadband internet). Im trying to look at the sort of lever action they use to break beads etc, should be easy to adapt that into my application... Last day at work for the year though tomorrow, so its gonna have to wait a while
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Yeh, i think i get the whole levering the tyre now (same as changeing a push bike tyre, only a lot bigger ) I did think about getting one of the portable ones of ebay, but i think i'd get bored of changing tyres manually Pretty sure the lathe idea will work, just gonna make a plate to bolt to the chuck, with a spare hub i got lying round, so i can actually bolt the wheel to the lathe, much safer Now i just gotta figure out my lever/arm/air ram arrangement, and weld the thing up! (oh, and we actually need to get the lathe wired up to, aparently it'll draw 80 amps at full load )
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Hi guys, been keeping an eye on this section for a while, some very good stuff!! Anyway, im fed up with going round to the tyre shop to get drift tyres taken off/replace/re-beaded so i'm going to make some stuff so that i can do it myself. We just got a new (new to us, very old to the world ) lathe at work (im an apprentice at an engineering joint). This lathe has a 5m bed (its friggin huge!!!), and a 4 jaw chuck capable of holding the inside of at least a 19" rim (i only need to do 17's at the most) - its also got a clutch so i can control the speed and make it go really slow (does 1000rpm max ). I reckon i can make a tool that bolts to the bed or saddle of the lathe which will allow me to pop the bead and then remove/refit the tyre, acting like the power assisted tyre levers you see on the professional machine - we've got heaps of spare/second hand air rams lying round, so i could rig up one of these to push an adjustable arm onto the bead giving me beak breaking ability. What im not sure about is how i use the arm to act as a tyre lever. AFAIK, the pro's wedge the end of the arm between the tyre and the rim, forcing it to pop out over the edge of the rim.... Does anyone have any experience/pics/vids that could help me understand? All i can find is vids of people stretching tyres with deoderant Putting the tyre back on with the arm should be similar to breaking the bead right? Your just forcing the edge of the tyre over the edge of the rim by putting pressure on it with the arm+turning the lathe over 1 revolution to do it to the whole tyre... I would do some 3d drawings to explain myself a bit better, but Solidworks isn't working cos the tafe servers are off, and i need them for my educational license
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E-manage Ultimate (emu) 56k Beware (screen Shots)
prescott06 replied to STATUS's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Aren't magnas jap?... Is there a way of working out if its possible, or is it a trial and error type exercise? I might give it a go, there's a gold emanage for sale cheap on NS atm, and if it doesn't work in the BMW, i'll use in the drift pig Thanks guys. -
E-manage Ultimate (emu) 56k Beware (screen Shots)
prescott06 replied to STATUS's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
This might be a silly question, but is the use of the emanage units limited to Jap cars? I.e, theoretically, could I use a blue emanage on a BMW 323? BTW, I'm not crazy -
Protex Performance Ceramic Brake Pads
prescott06 replied to darkhorse's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Talking of Lucas pads, where do you get them from in Sydney? -
Cool bananas. I figured you might ...
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Do you have a spare length of air line and a Y piece? If you do, connect the Y piece to the regulator, and run your air line to the welder as normal. Then connect your spare air line to the other branch of the Y piece. Hopefully you'll have a couple of used cut-off/grinding wheels lying round, drill the center out of one so the end of your spare air line fits snugly inside and then seal it with some electrical tape. You can then use masking tape (doesn't leave so much sticky mess) to fix the wheel to one end of the pipe your purging, making sure you get a reasonable seal. Then do the same with another spare wheel at the other end of the pipe, using the masking tape to seal up the hole in the wheel also, but poke a couple of hole through the tape with the end of your welding wire, this means you get a little bit off flow in the gas which dissapates any oxygen, and evacuates the heated gas. The only downside with using a Y piece is you might loose a bit of flow/pressure to the welder, so just ramp up the flow on the regulator a little. The best way of course, is to use a twin regulator (which you might already be doing). And if you knew all that already, my bad and no offence intended, but someone else might not know...