EdGTR

double check your feeler gauges before you start especially if you are going to do as they say and use 2 to get the measurement right, I started doing it this way and gave up and just used the one bent one. I used Precision shims down in vic ( from memory) for the new ones. If doing the job again on a head still on a engine i would probably consider installing a cam stud kit. You will see why.

Thanks just a few things to think about. The system works ok at the moment but we have been told a few different things from a number of people and are just trying to work out what to try to improve the system with out doing any damage. Being our first dry sump it has been a bit of a learning curve.

Just a couple of smaller questions that came up when we dry sumped a sr20 for a datsun 1600 race car. With a tank in the boot do you have any issues with the feed hose to the pump collapsing? Also in regards to sealing the bottom end do you use special seals or reverse their fitting? We are not running any crankcase vacuum at the moment as we are just running a filtered breather fitting in the rocker cover. Apart from the hp gain advantage from the vacuum in the crankcase are there any other negative affects of setting it up like this? Thanks

Hey mate what is included in the 6 speed conversion kit and any more info on it?

is the strut brace still up for sale

What model is it? gtst or gtr?

Ok so there was more to the story but that doesnt change the hard facts. Is he not boosting it up any further because it has the standard injectors back in it? Have you got to the bottom of why the injector stayed open? If you are not sure about a tuner or mechanic go and talk to another one but just remember that they are humans and that they see and do things differently to each other. There are many ways to do alot of things, but go with the facts and start at the beginning check over everything and if it all looks ok then put it behind you. Have you checked to see if the glazing of the bore is only on the fuel affected cylinder or accross the six equally. if its the same on all six then it wasnt the fuel and it was like that before.

I think you need to push him for some specifics. Forget how much fuel came out it is irrelevent, there was enough to stop the engine turning over. The only way this can happen one one cylinder is if there is a fault in the injector or a computer malfunction causing the injector to open while the engine is not turning over. i dont care how big a injector is i cant see it spraying enough fuel to fill a cylinder to the point of locking while a engine is being cranked! First change your oil! i have seen a few cylinders lock with fuel over the years and it has always contaminated the oil. Second start from the beginning and check your engine for damage, ie comp test (on all cylinders) and a leak down test to compare all the cylinders together. If these come back at a acceptable level then i would work on the theory of no damage done and get on with life. Tune up, modify do what ever you want! Obviously you will never be 100% sure but if there is no proof of damage then be positive.

Hey mate i see you are selling the back seat by any chance are you selling the seat belt buckles? If so how much for just the two buckles please?

Hey, you know what they say if it doesnt look right then it probably isnt and that doesnt look right. Pull the front down again and recheck everything. if you have a service manual with a exploded view it will show all the washers and spacers go. Once it is apart hopefully it will be obvious. I have seen a few engines with the tomei gears and none have sat like this.

Hey mate alot of people will say different things about turbo failure causing engine damage but i can say 100 percent that on my r32 it happened and it did cause major damage. i have a block with scoring in the last three bores and dents in the piston and head. if you are a bit mechanical it is somthing you could do at home if you have the time and want to do it. it is a bit involved and does require qiute alot of things to be removed so take your time and label everything or lay it out so it all goes back the same. pics may help. Good luck

Hey Fatz If there are any positions open or any that open due to a pull out im very keen. Have the money ready to move. Thanks Ed

Hi all im after a pair of R32 GTR front upper control arms. Pm please

hey mate do you have standard front upper control arms off the gtr? You said the rear got bent did it hit the front as well?

Hey mate what colour is the boot and wing? Also is the exhaust still for sale? I am also in brisbane so might be able to come and have a look. By the off chance you dont have any front upper suspension arms do you?

Its going back to the beginning but you have checked all the basic things like air and fuel filters? It might also be worth a look at the front of the cat just so you can rule that out but if it doesnt drop off its probably ok. Also that much power at that boost is a little low but not way down. If everything else looks ok i would be checking the vacuum lines and making sure its not seeing straight manifold pressure at the actuators. If a waste gate was stuck open it would be alot laggier than that. Good luck

I undid a set on a 25det that did have the notches and even with those we had a get a deep thin walled double hex (12 point) socket to suit (from memeory it was half inch) and with that we still had to grind it down a little but it worked. On the same subject does any one know the correct tension to do the studs up to in the block and should the threads be oiled? also do you use the same tension for the nuts as you would for the original bolts?

This is also a question i have been asking my self and the reasons i have come up with apart from the fact that thats just what you do, has to do with the way the threads pull and the length of contact area is better having studs than bolts. Also alot of other really high performance stuff run studs standard, mostly bikes but its still a engine. I hope that gives you a little reasoning even if it still comes out as do it once do it right. I will use them on mine when the head comes off.

I just fitted one of these cats to my R32 GTR cant be happier. Looks good, fits good and sounds good. What else is there! Thanks guys

Yeah mate i just spoke to my shop and he has a couple of aftermarket bovs that i want to try and it should tell us whats going on. ill have a look late next week and write up what i found.

hey mate yeah mine does exactly the same thing ive got gtss(same same -9) apexi intake and still have the standard bovs. Mine does it at zero vacuum and i was thinking that it was the bovs opening a little and air flowing through them but i havnt tested this theory. i might have a play next week. I dont think its anything to worry about but up a slight hill it can be a bit annoying.

Yes i agree that running the map sensor for the ecu before the throttle is very strange and must be a major pain to tune but if that hasnt changed then it isnt your problem. You said that the standard boost controller isnt doing anything but it looks like it is still hooked up but from factory they hae a t and they dont work like most people think. If you have it hooked up like a bleed valve then it could be the issue. I think it is your problem. When you had it apart there wasnt a t piece with a short length of hose left over was there? Iwould try and borrow a bleed valve and see if you can get it to work with that and if you can then i would leave the actuator alone so you can wind it down in the future if you want.

ok well there is two things the first is the auto elec would have checked for power to the trigger wire on the starter (small wire) and guessing that he then tried to find somthing inside the car it was not getting power so hitting the starter shouldnt do anything but leave dents. the other thiing to do is rewire the system with a relay, its very simple but you may have to bypass the immobiliser for the brant. If it plays up consistanly then the elec really should be able to sort it but somtimes on issues that are only intermittent it can take time.

hey mate are you just after straight bits of hose?

if this started after having the turbo off i would be going over all my vac lines and making sure that 2 arnt mixed. i know that you said it was a 1 bar actuator but did you ever test it by plumbing it straight into the boost source. my hks 1 bars only run 10 psi when hooked straight up.