EdGTR

no i used the new hks ones and tested them for opening pressure and they were both fully open by about 11 psi which gives me the option of running very close to stock boost if i ever want to. This is what it ran when i disconnected the boost control solenoid when we were playing around looking for a issue. I had my blow off valves off today and had a good look around the valves and the hoses down there but they tested perfect and everything looked good. I will keep on looking but im thinking i might borrow a cheap boost controller off a mate and see if ican wind it up to 15 and if it holds then it is a problem with the standard boost control and if i cant get it up then its a mechanical fault like a split hose that only opens under higher pressure.

Hi all. A quick run down, Ive had my gtr for about 5 years and anout four years ago i put a pfc on it and pulled the restrictor out. All good abot 14 psi. I dont drive it all that much but earlier this year one of the ceramic wheels came off and filled 4,5 and 6 with bits giving it a on road hone job. I fitted a 2nd hand engine wih new Hks GTSS turbos and put the restrictor back in until i had time for a proper tune. Over the last couple of days ive had it on the dyno and we had some minor issues with the software and yesterday it was running actuator pressure (about 10 psi) we sorted that and today it was running about 12 with the restrictor in so i pulled it and the boost went up to 15 or16 which is what i thought would happen we did a couple of runs and touched up a bit of fuel and then on the next run it touched 15 and then levelled out back at the 12 it was running with it in. It continuied to do this so we stopped tuning. We looked all over for boost leaks but couldnt find any and it seems strange to me that it is exactly back to where it was with it in. Any one got any ideas? I know people will say just put on a ebc but why when all i want to run is 15 or 16 and if the factory one does this then why replace. Obviously if i cant get it sorted i will have to but it was perfect for 2 full power runs. Thanks

Yeah just on the R32 gtr as far as i know. It started and ran fine but the boost was down a couple of pounds as im guessing since it was looking for the apexi one it stopped doing anything with the original. When i turned it back to off the boost went from 10sih to mid 12 psi. I still had the factory restrictor in. I didnt think that it would do anything with the factory solenoid but it seems to. Live and learn.

Hi all. Ive just had my R32 GTR on the dyno and was quite happy with the results but when the car was at the shop the exhaust temp light came on and just stayed there. The light can not be operated by the original sensor as it and its wiring are long gone. I got home and did some serching and there seemed to be some mixed ideas about what can bring it on. My car has a Power Fc and has been perfect for years with never seeing any lights at all until now. I can confirm 100 percent that R32 GTRs use this as their warning light. I looked at the car and while the laptop was plugged in the pfc boost control had been turned on and i dont run boost control so it bought up the exhaust temp warning light. I turned it off and the light went away. All Good.

Also just to check what size is the drain back? and it runs down hill all the way? They are gravity drained and any up hill at all can cause the cartridge to fill and leak. I take it that the engine runs well and that you have done a compression test? Its not a case of bad blow by pushing oil out the breathers and into the inlet?

Hi all i think i can post here now that i just fitted a set of GT-SS's to my 32 after the rear stock one filled the pistons up with ceramic. For those who say it cant happen ill show you a piston with bits of the ceramic still stuck in it. I bought a front cut and put all my externals on and a set of new SS's, Tomei dumps and a tomei fuel pump for a little piece of mind. Previously i was running stock turbos with the restrictor removed so i put the restrictor back in until i can get it on a dyno. I did some road tuning of my PFC with my wide band (ie rich as) but my initial thoughts are very good. Its seeing full boost of 12.5 ish before 3 grand and pulls hard all the way up top. My plan is to fit a y pipe and cat and then put it on the dyno so ill post my graph when i can, I chose the SS's because i want very good response and about 280kw and for it to be very safe for a standard bottom end. It will see the track and for me it will be enough. There is enough money to be spent on tires, brakes and suspension to keep me poor.

Yeah dont worry about paul being a hobby builder he has done so much r and d on his own car over the years that if he doesnt know it you probably dont need to!

As ^^ said never, but why do you need one is it to push more fuel out of the injectors or is it to fit a aftermarket rail? If its to fit a rail put bigger injectors in at the same time other wise you dont need the rail. I think a very small rise in pressure to keep injectors below 100% duty is ok but you will sacrafice spray quality. Bigger injectors are ALWAYS better.

Every one has a different idea about mods which is great but i think it really comes down to how you want the car to drive and how much you want to spend. Also as everyone says the amount of power you think you want the first time is never enough once you get used to. So yes the 20 can do it but it will cost quite a bit as there will be quite alot of parts to replace and when you are done it will be doughy down low but a real screamer up top, Which can be cool but if you get bored of the power it will start getting expensive and lag will be getting a bit on the wild side for much more power. A 25 will need less parts put on the engine to do the same and due to the extra cc's will make more torque but will be the wrong engine for the car so if it came down to laws where you are could mean extra stuffing around. BUT if and when you want more it is quite easily done. The 26 only being more capacity by like 65 mls or somthing you cant say that the extra capacity will make any difference but in my oppinion they drive so well that if you can get a package that includes all the gear like front mount and all the inlet and exhaust, it would make the power you are after with almost no mods at all. they are really smooth have plenty of mid range and the possibility for future mods is huge. BUT and this is the good one apart from the legality again you will need to get a different sump because all gtr's have a diff in the sump which will not fit in your car. The gear box will take quite alot of modifying or just go a 25 box and if you get a cheap one watch out for the ceramic wheels falling off which can damage the engine badly (mine did and did). I would do a full stock install of a 26 with all the 26 bits like cooler and twin turbos and put a set of hks gtss turbos or -7s for less money and a power fc and tune it for about 15 psi and keep it safe for the stock injectors and afms. you should get a very safe lasting 250kw at the wheels. In a car that is a few hundred kgs less than a gtr that would keep you happy for quite a while and see off most gtts. You had better save for tires though. Or it and you might not last.

I would also be in for the next batch if and when.

+1 more another happy customer of Precision shims he was great to deal with. To bad its a pain of a job. And winding the cams in and out makes my thing hurt every time!

The other thing to check is how tight the dip stick is in the hole. its getting old now and the rubber section might be a bit hard. I had the same issue on my gtr, got all worried did comp tests and leak down the whole lot then bought a new dip stick and it never happened again. I was happy!!

Just for another piece of info i just fitted a pair of genuine brand new hks gtss to my 26 and in the kit it came with 2 replacement banjo bolts with very small restrictors in them to replace the standard oil feed ones to the turbos. i have heard that oil flow needs to be reduced to ball bearing turbos a few times in the past as well. Sorry i cant tell you what size the restrictor was in the bolts but it was alot smaller than the one in the turbo cartridge. Yes a comp and leakdown test are good ideas but i would be calling one of the turbo suppliers and seeing what they sayabout the restrictors first.

Thanks for your help guys it was the cas o ring! i didnt even think of that one. How funny is it that they supply you with that but not the o ring for the oil filter housing to block connection. No one said it had to be logical.

Thats one i didnt think of, i will pull my cas off and see if its the right size. Yeah it had all the o rings for the balance tube and this one. Ill have a look and let you know. Thanks

jJust to clarify when you guys say to get rid of it and fit a relocator and external cooler dont they replace just the filter and is there a housing off a different rb that still has both the pressure and temp fittings? I there any kind of aftermarket cooler that replaces just the heat exchanger part and leaves all the other bits exactly the same? Obviously you would have to jump the coolant line back into itself.

The pickup is one place it could go but the kit had a gasket for the pick up and i have the sump back on so thats how its going to stay. The o ring is almost the exact same size and thickness as the 2 centre o rings in the inlet manifold to balance tube. Im not near the car at the moment but will see what i can find when i get back. I didnt check for sizing for the pickup but it would be about the right size. the gasket looked pretty good and im happy with it so maybe it will be a spare. Thanks

Just another question on the same subject i have noticed that there are 2 oil pump part numbers for R32s. I am assuming that these were changed at the same time but dose anyone know what the actual differences are? And more importantly are they interchangeable?

Any one out there with Fast able to run this one through for me, Please it would be a huge help.

No they dont! My R32 dropped the rear ceramic wheel a few months ago and the bits went back past the exhaust valves and destroyed my engine. You should see the scratches in the bores. Also if its still running the standard comp it will be having issues at that boost. its not the gauge is it. Can you borrow another one to double check?

I bought a full engine gasket kit and it really isnt but at the moment im trying to find out where this o ring goes (part number 22131-5S10). Thanks They are a bit sneaky with the full gasket kit thing, So far i looks like ill need half moons, Rocker cover bolt seals, the o ring inside the oil filter housing and a new oil cap seal would have been nice for the money.

I just pulled apart a front cut with a pull type clutch and it did have a long oil pump drive. Dont know what year though.

before you go spraying sticky stuff all over the place you need to work out if the belts are coming loose or if its somthing else. If it is the belts coming loose then it should be easy to check all the adjusters and make sure they are ok. If the belts are tight then it needs to get worked out before it does more damage. Could be a pulley out of alignment or a bearing that is getting tight, I have heard harmonic balancers make funny noises whe they start to move.

Hi Guys, Any chance of doing BNR32005328 Thanks

Hi all, You hear that there are two different clusters in r32 gtr,s. I was wondering when they changed and more importantly if there are any obvious differences? ie connections or somthing on the back. Also if i fit the wrong type what can i expect to happen? Thanks