Husky33

Fitted the trust 3.5inch titanium exhaust today, hell of alot louder than my twin exhaust, and a fair bit lighter. Also fitted some cusco front camber arms. Haven't measured it yet but should be around -2.5dg to -3dg camber. Put some clips on the side of the front bar/guard to make it easier to take the front bar off too.

yeah the greddy manifold that i purchased came with a q45 throttle body, so I was going to use it as it is still attached. Will do some more research into that vs an rb25 throttle body now. Thanks for that. Yeah the aeromotions wing is not only cabin adjustable, but also runs off a g-meter and speed meter. So you can program it to change angles depending on speed, corners etc etc

there is a mid muffler too. same as the picture below(that's not my one)

so while i'm getting the rest of the car ready, looking for a bare rb25 block to start the engine build. This is what I've got so far: R34 Gtr crank Cp Rb26 Pistons 9:1 Spool Rb26 rods ATI 1000hp rb26 damper w/oil pump drive arp main and head studs Supertech valve springs, titanium retainers, valve stem seals Hks 256/264 cams with tomei exhaust cam wheel(retaining vct) Peterson 4 stage dry sump pump Peterson tank Fitting for the pump and sump All i need is a custom sump made up. Intake/exhaust wise i'm running a smaller turbo to start with, and we'll see how response goes(which should be awesome) but chances are the turbo may run out of puff in the high revs, so we'll play around with that. gt3076r .63 rear housing external gate tial 44mm wastegate hks manifold greddy inlet manifold q45 throttle body z32 afm power fc Fuel wise i have a walbro intank, which will lead to a surge tank, with an 044 feeding off that into a high flow fuel filter, running into tomei 740cc injectors with a sard fpr. If anyone knows of a cheap rb25 block let us know

When i first put it on, was just under 100mm, that was on a fairly lowered car. I went to an exhaust shop and had an extra hanger welded on near to the rear, which raised it up over 100mm and keep it alot more sturdy. At the end of the day it depends on how low your car is, however on your average skyline should clear 100mm.

im in south sydney, not far from liverpool Will trade for stock r33/s14 wheels with good tyres plus $1400

$350 not neotiable

Hey got some things to get rid of: R33 Gtr wing, not geniune. Series 1 silver in color. Has a carbon fibre blade, also comes with silver blade. $250 R35 fibreglass/carbon bootlid. Will bolt straight on and has plugs for electrics and bootlock. Has holes for stock spoiler, and also holes for an aeromotions wing that was installed. It was off Duncan's car. $100 Personal steering wheel. Suede with leather. Very good looking wheel. Comes with horn, no screws though. 350mm in diameter. Like new, only used for a few hundred km's $120 Located south of sydney not far from liverpool

mirrors and steering wheel

well just did some easy things today while it was raining. Put on some numbers for the super sprint series. Installed an aeromotions R2 wing, just need to wire some power up to it. Install went easy, always fun cutting and drilling bits out of your car. Fitted some 18x9.5 +22 te37 sl's with 265 ad08 rubber all round. Fronts just clear the arms, just. I thought it would be harder getting 265's on the front of a gtst but so far so good. Sticks out a little tad, but i have camber arms to go on shortly so no big deal there. Bought some metal open ended wheel nuts with floating rings on the bottom of them. Expensive but well worth it. Also fitted an omp flat bottom suede steering wheel, and some carbon gt style mirrors. Couldn't find them for an r33, so i bought a set for an s14 and what do you know, bolt on In the next few days I'll put on a trust 3.5 in titanium exhaust, hks oil cooler and i'll be completely gutting the inside of the car, getting ready for a cage.

yeah my bad they are +22 all round

Up for sale is my fujitsubo twin 2.5 catback exhaust. It's goes twin 2.5 pipes from the cat into a large muffler with twin tips. Looks awesome, sounds great but not too loud. For me it was the perfect street exhaust, as it flowed just as well as my 3.5 inch exhaust but was alot quieter. Only changing as my car is turning track only. $500 Pickup in sydney or i can meet you somewhere

As stated I have x4 17x9 te37's. They were on my gtst and were a perfect fitment. When i bought them they were bronze, however the anodizing was quite worn, so I did a backyard job and primed, painted and glossed them with black spraycan paint. Came up alright, alot better than what they were, but definately not proffesional. Would be awesome for a track car, for a street car you might want them powdercoated if you want them to look perfect. The rays stickers are still on the inside of the wheels(didnt spray over them ) They come 90% federal 595s's, 255x35 rears, and 245x45 fronts. Located in Sydney, pickup or i can meet you somewhere $1700

with the ride height as seen above I did have rubbing issues close to full lock, but that was only on the spash guards. So i removed the splash guards, tidied up the wiring under the guard, and no rubbing at all. The 9.5's shouldnt have any issue at all, however im going to try and run 265's on the front so we'll see how that goes. If it rubs i just might need to space them out and pull the guard a tad. Reason why this build is taking it's time is because i've been working overseas for 7 months, but back next week and the build shall begin

I wouldn't call sugar crap, i'd say it's very useful when used right, and we all know the other side to the story For eg, there's a reason a lot of athletes drink fluids high in sugar while training or competing.

so we agree then, you can get energy from a drink

energy is calories right? And sugar is calories right? So therefore a sugary drink is giving me extra energy yeah?

No updates as I've been overseas for work for a little while, however watch this space in the coming months. The amount of parts i have sitting at home is actually scaring me a little, I don't know where to start. Parts include: 3076 ext gate 3.5" ti exhaust r34 gtr crank a couple sets of BIG brakes(one being a carbon ceramic set if i can get them to fit ) peterson dry sump pump and tank 18x9.5 te37sl's racetech seat aeromotions wing plus about 40+ other things yeah, you get the idea. First thing will be to strip it and start the fabrication work(ie rollcage plus a couple other goodies ) Can't wait to get back

Ok, i'll go through some options for you. -Doing deadlifts first will mean your grip will be a bit stronger, however it's not going to strengthen your grip as you'd know. -Using alternate grip will mean you can lift more, alot more, but will again not really strengthen your grip directly, however the extra weight lifted will have some transfer to your grip. -If you want to lift with a pronated grip, then i'd suggest start using the hook grip as above. Painfull for a while, but well worth it. -Gloves will lower your grip somewhat as opposed to chalk, but if you want to wear them so be it. A long time ago i had the same issue, where my grip used to fail before my back/legs. For myself, i used and still do use captain of crush grippers to keep my crushing grip in check, and for static grip i did alot of farmers walks. These two will transfer over to your deadlift tremendously. Just remember, doing an overhand grip without using hook grip means your grip will fail alot sooner. Even with a hook grip it takes alot of practice and training. Overhand i reckon i could do maybe 140-150 for a few, but alternate I'll have no problem at all doing 140 for 20reps, with grip still not being an issue. But in answer to your question, buy some coc grippers and do heavy farmers walks a few times a week.

fitness wise I want to do a half marathon, do a mini triathlon, run 5km in 15min consistently, plus alot more outdoor stuff. Weights wise would to squat 210, deadlift 250 and bench 145

if you're talking about hot dip galvanizing then no way. You have a chance of warping or worse from the heat if it's not done properly, plus it will add a lot more weight than just powdercoating, as your basically covering the whole thing with a thick layer of zinc. I used to work in hot dip galvanzing a long time ago, and there is no way i would ever put anything of my car through the acid/hot dip/quick cool process.

It's not due to cars not coming out with them, it's due to emissions. aftermarket hid's aren't legal mate. Just because a car has something doesn't make it legal on another car, as the car that has it obviously complies with ADR. And to the OP, it's called the appearance method. If you're car appears to be in good condition and not either a hunk of junk or a full blown race car that sounds like a jet taking off, chances are you'll be sweet. If i was a cop and I'd pull over the car that only has one headlight, and then when i found out the horn wasnt working and the battery wasn't secure, i'd go over the car with a fine tooth comb. It a pain in the ass but if you want to drive a modified car on the street, you need to adhere to the appearance method as closely as possible.

20min would be a good time for 5km's for a 'non-athlete'.

As stated above, preferably 90mm in diameter at least. Will pay good money

how tall are you?