Sinturion

Hey, just wondering if anyone knew the difference between the R32/R33 (E-AT) autogear boxes and the non-tiptronic gearboxes in the R34 (E-ATx)? I thought i read something awhile back about R34 gearboxes using some kind of locking mechanism? Are they all the same size? eg will an R34 one bolt straight into an R32? Too many crazy ideas - not enough time (or money )

Why N/A skylines? Cause I can buy a replacement engine for about NZ$300 or another auto transmission for NZ$50. Not to mention you can get cheap upgrades by buying gtst parts (eg brakes etc) Fantastic DIY car - it would take some serious f**k ups to really break it.

Mmmm that's what I was worried about. The search continues!

Just to confirm tho - the dampening rates are the same also? - I'll still be using the stock springs btw.

I was reading about the rb23/24 last night conversions last night. Seems like there might be some expensive machining work involved to bore it out to 81/82mm? I can't find alot of info about an NA rb23/24 - just the turbo ones. What kind of effects will it have on the compression ratio if i used 4age pistons and a RB25 (or RB26) crank?

Awesome, thanks for the clarification.

I've been reading the R34 engine manual. Apparently the RB20DE Neo has variable valve timing control, as well as variable air intake control - both which claim to increase torque at the lower and middle ranges. It also has 'air swirl jet control' which has something to do with making combustion more stable. More reading required!

Hey, i'm after some rear shocks a 25X - WGC34 frame. I've read that the WGNC34 (4wd) uses the same rear shocks as the R33 gtst - is this the same for the WGC34(2wd) frame? Super cheap have a special on over here atm - 25% off all kyb shocks, so i figured I would fix up the old folks car. Unfortunately kyb don't list shocks for the stagea on their online catalogue - so i'm wondering if I will run into some problems when I goto the store and ask for some tomorrow morning. Any help is much appreciated.

Sounds like your old muffler was blocked and giving blocked cat like symptoms?

Remove your injectors and get them professionally cleaned & flow tested.

Hehe While I appreciate the advice - I would really like to know what the physical differences between the rb20de and rb20de neo are. I think the rb20 neo is more common in NZ than in AU. One of the main factors for doing this is also the learning behind it, so that when I build my rb30de I have a clue what I'm doing. Btw, just brought a secondhand SAFC2 - going to pick it up in a minute or two

I figured it out today. Apparently my drum handbrake pads were adjusted too loose and my hand brake lever cable waaaay too tight which caused it to pull to one side - who would have thought? Boy, I feel like an idiot

Car is still on stock springs. Camber adjustment is fine - just too much toe in.

Just came back from the alignment shop - the poor guys spent 2 1/2 hours trying to get my rear left wheel toe corrected on my r32. Currently it sits about 5-6mm too far in at full adjustment. I recently swapped out my hicas subframe for a non-hicas one. The subframe looked to be fine - no visible damage or bending. I was wondering if anyone has had a problem like this before? perhaps I haven't put the subframe in straight or so? or maybe even mounted a shock/swaybar/arm incorrectly? Would there be any consequence if I just cut the slots where the toe bolt goes through a bit longer? or should i shell out for some adjustable toe rods? Any advice would be much appreciated.

You can see that it also peaks 800rpm earlier - which may be more noticeable and possibly improve the drive-ability (so gutless down low ). There is also quite a significant fuel consumption drop between neo and non-neo. Plus I enjoy taking things apart As for the SAFC, I'm planning on getting a second hand one already. I figured using it with the neo head should give some good benefits. Thanks for your suggestion tho.