Sinturion

Hey, just wondering if anyone knew the difference between the R32/R33 (E-AT) autogear boxes and the non-tiptronic gearboxes in the R34 (E-ATx)? I thought i read something awhile back about R34 gearboxes using some kind of locking mechanism? Are they all the same size? eg will an R34 one bolt straight into an R32? Too many crazy ideas - not enough time (or money )

Why N/A skylines? Cause I can buy a replacement engine for about NZ$300 or another auto transmission for NZ$50. Not to mention you can get cheap upgrades by buying gtst parts (eg brakes etc) Fantastic DIY car - it would take some serious f**k ups to really break it.

Mmmm that's what I was worried about. The search continues!

Just to confirm tho - the dampening rates are the same also? - I'll still be using the stock springs btw.

I was reading about the rb23/24 last night conversions last night. Seems like there might be some expensive machining work involved to bore it out to 81/82mm? I can't find alot of info about an NA rb23/24 - just the turbo ones. What kind of effects will it have on the compression ratio if i used 4age pistons and a RB25 (or RB26) crank?

Awesome, thanks for the clarification.

I've been reading the R34 engine manual. Apparently the RB20DE Neo has variable valve timing control, as well as variable air intake control - both which claim to increase torque at the lower and middle ranges. It also has 'air swirl jet control' which has something to do with making combustion more stable. More reading required!

Hey, i'm after some rear shocks a 25X - WGC34 frame. I've read that the WGNC34 (4wd) uses the same rear shocks as the R33 gtst - is this the same for the WGC34(2wd) frame? Super cheap have a special on over here atm - 25% off all kyb shocks, so i figured I would fix up the old folks car. Unfortunately kyb don't list shocks for the stagea on their online catalogue - so i'm wondering if I will run into some problems when I goto the store and ask for some tomorrow morning. Any help is much appreciated.

Sounds like your old muffler was blocked and giving blocked cat like symptoms?

Remove your injectors and get them professionally cleaned & flow tested.

Hehe While I appreciate the advice - I would really like to know what the physical differences between the rb20de and rb20de neo are. I think the rb20 neo is more common in NZ than in AU. One of the main factors for doing this is also the learning behind it, so that when I build my rb30de I have a clue what I'm doing. Btw, just brought a secondhand SAFC2 - going to pick it up in a minute or two

I figured it out today. Apparently my drum handbrake pads were adjusted too loose and my hand brake lever cable waaaay too tight which caused it to pull to one side - who would have thought? Boy, I feel like an idiot

Car is still on stock springs. Camber adjustment is fine - just too much toe in.

Just came back from the alignment shop - the poor guys spent 2 1/2 hours trying to get my rear left wheel toe corrected on my r32. Currently it sits about 5-6mm too far in at full adjustment. I recently swapped out my hicas subframe for a non-hicas one. The subframe looked to be fine - no visible damage or bending. I was wondering if anyone has had a problem like this before? perhaps I haven't put the subframe in straight or so? or maybe even mounted a shock/swaybar/arm incorrectly? Would there be any consequence if I just cut the slots where the toe bolt goes through a bit longer? or should i shell out for some adjustable toe rods? Any advice would be much appreciated.

You can see that it also peaks 800rpm earlier - which may be more noticeable and possibly improve the drive-ability (so gutless down low ). There is also quite a significant fuel consumption drop between neo and non-neo. Plus I enjoy taking things apart As for the SAFC, I'm planning on getting a second hand one already. I figured using it with the neo head should give some good benefits. Thanks for your suggestion tho.

Like I said, rb25 isn't an option. As I am under 25, my insurance company will only allow me to insure a car 2 liters or under. My insurance company currently gives me very good rates as the rest of my family use them also. Then on top of that I would have to get a certification done (government requirement here in nz) if I used a larger engine - about $450. Believe me, I would love to plonk in a rb25 - but its just not viable atm. Anyways, less whys - more how-tos

I'm thinking about 'upgrading' my R32's RB20DE engine to a neo one which should give me some better fuel efficiency, cleaner emissions and _slightly_ more torque(186.33 N*m / 4400 rpm vs 184.37 N*m / 5200 rpm) . I'm having a hard time finding information about the engine and what differences there are with a non-neo engine. I'm wondering if i could get away with swapping just the head/loom/ecu and using my current block/internals or if its a lot more extensive than that (eg full engine transplant required). If anyone could point me in the right direction that would be great. And no RB25 or turbo is out of the question at this stage (damn you insurance company )

Back on topic: In theory a longer intake pipe should give you more down low, at cost of top end power - and vice versa. You could start to experiment with variable intakes - eg having valves to open and close to direct air through different routes/distances depending on your throttle/rpm, but that starts to get quite tricky I believe the width of your exhaust pipe would give you similar changes - eg, smaller exhaust would give you more low power at the cost of top end. edit: I might be a bit mistaken on this, i have to do some more reading about it

Air con off? My air con used to mess with my revs a bit until i stripped it out. Might be a dirty or possibly even damaged afm. Try giving it a clean - plenty of threads about afms on here.

You should really use a timing light to adjust it. But if you want to adjust it just to test then turning it clockwise retards the timing and anti-clockwise advances. I think mine sits around the middle. I'm not sure if your after market cam gears will effect it. Don't forget to mark the current position before you start to play with it. You might also want to get your fuel pressure tested if you are using a non stock fuel pump.

I get around about the same fuel economy with my auto You could try energy conserving oil (usually marked on the container). I just noticed that the oil i put into my car a couple of weeks ago doesn't comply as an energy conserving oil . Slightly thinner oil may help too eg 10w40 rather than 20w50 etc. Might pay to change your gear box and diff oil also. Remove any extra weight - sub woofers etc. Check your water temperature via consult or so.. don't trust the dash gauge because i've heard many stories of this gauge playing up. I think the ECU retards timing/ over fuels if its running too hot. Change the fuel filter, both in the engine bay and in the tank. Your tank might also need a clean (i have a strange feeling that my tank is dirty) Maybe remove your injectors and have them professionally cleaned and flow tested. SAFC tune would help, but would be quite an expensive route. Seeing you are running 98 you can try getting your timing advanced a bit - i think its supposed to help with fuel economy as well as power but you may have to double check that. Lightweight wheels would probably help a fair amount. Double check your O2 sensor - even if you replaced it not so long ago - its not too hard to do. Perhaps check the knock sensors also (although i have no idea how to do this) Thats all i can think of atm. maybe wax your car for less wind drag

Freaking awesome. Would be great for driving over speed bumps and driving on the kerb Would also be great for high power fwds to keep the front down when dragging.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=42217&hl= Search is your friend O2 sensor might be ok - the ecu could be ignoring it because its in safe mode because of the knock sensor problem. If you cant figure out the knock sensor problem i would recommend you take it to an auto sparky.

I would try and figure out the knock sensor code before you start buying new things. Perhaps the person who did the engine transplant forgot to plug it in or so? do a bit of searching about knock sensors on these forums & sdu - should help you diagnose it.

Done an ecu reset? Should jump between rich and lean when crusing - this is governed by the o2 sensor.