lindsey34

parts for sale from my GTST. *Blitz BOV with intercooler pipe $250 *SOLD* *Intercooler, larger than standard R33 GTST, might be from a R34 GTT(slight damage) *SOLD* *Standatd R33 intercooler from my brothers GTST $100 *Dash pad $70 (4 small srew holes from guage) *Dash plastics $40 (good for somebody who wants to paint their plastics as they have been painted black, has also got a hole for a dash light dimmer to poke through) *Manual gearstick surround with ash tray $40 (gearstick surround has also been painted black) *R33 snorkel for air box $30 *SOLD*

thanks, please pm me when you are ready. P.S. why are you taking them off?

i'm after 2x red + white GT badges from side of R33 GTSt in good condition

that's what I believe, it's just that u see quite a few GTR's for around 20k now and they claim that there in exellent condition.

how much would you guys think you could pick up a 89 GTR for localy or imported? how cheap have you seen them going for?

what about a hks GT2540R turbo is anybody running one of these? and if so what other mods had to be taken out to get it running properly?

just wondering if anyone has a hks gt-rs or gt2540r turbo on a rb25 and what sort of power the are making with what mods, as i'm thinking of investing in one, just want to know your thoughts.

2 or 4 wheels?

you say it's still serviceable, what's wrong with the turbo, what exactly needs to be serviced.

BJ, I'm keen for one. Pm me when they are finished.

when i turn a corner slowly my inside wheel skips and it does not make any noises at all (like clunks), and when going around rounderbouts the car feel like it is pulling back and fowards (a surging feel). do you think this is locker? I have been told that it may be just a tight cluch, but it skips even when I'm riding the clutch a little.

knock is actually 89 i think it was. cant wait to get it tuned.

It just keeps flashing orange flat out until I take my foot of the accelerator. and yes I do have the commander

I just took my car for a drive with the stock ecu and the engine check light didn't come on at full trottle/ full boost. I reckon that the Power Fc is causing detonation (the Power FC has not yet been tuned and is still factory set).

the engine check light is still comming up at about 3800rpm onwards at full throttle. All this after I install FMIC, AVCR and Power FC. Any ideas?

I have just taken it for a quick drive and when it revs hard the engine check light is flashing, does anybody have any ideas?

Thanks for your help everyone, I finally managed to feed the wires through by removing the glovebox, this gave me better access to the hole that the loom runs through, I got someone to lever the rubber seal up with a flat screwdriver while I fed the wires through.

GZ R33, Remove the plastic from inside where?

Does anyone know of any other way?

it's so tight to get your hands in there to follow the ecu wires, dont tell me i will have to pull my dash apart to find the hole easily.

Thanks mate I'll give it a go.

does anybody know where to run the wiring and plugs for the apex AVCR through the fire wall?

Yeah i'll take them! Can you C.O.D? Thanks

I have just completed FMIC and Power FC installation, drove it for the first time this morning to the auto electrican to get the wires hooked up for my AVCR and it drove fine, but when I picked it up it had a rough idle and it stalled a couple of times driving it back to work. When I drove it home it stall at every intersection as soon as my foot left the accelerater, it will not idle at all, as soon as I start my car the revs drop and it stalls. The idle is set correct on the Power Fc and I just tried my old CPU and it does the same thing. Any idea's?