Stray

A Z32 AFM? Is 350hp really going to be that big of a strain on standard internals? Where is the weak point in the internals, the rods or the pistons?

I should of mentioned that I have no cat also I have a custom front/down pipe and guages. So the PFC is the best ecu to get? I saw a Mines one for sale awhile ago that was pretty cheap, are they any good and is there anyone around here who can tune them?

Okay so this is probably a pretty common topic but I'm at a loss for where to go next with my mods so I'll start with the current list: S1 R33 GTST TD06 turbo 3inch turbo back FMIC Profec EBC SSQ BOV Turbo timer Tien/Bilstein springs/shocks OS Giken twin plate I was thinking my next step should obviously be ECU upgrade then I thought I could probably use a box for my pod filter and some cold air but then I got to thinking that fuel upgrades might be more important first. I'm not really bothered (don't care) about asthetics at this stage and this is my first serious performance car so I don't want to pour a huge ammount of money into something I'll probably sell in a year or two. Between now and the next big step I have a few small things planned like a catch can and HICAS lock bar, possibly an oil cooler too. So basically my question is what's the most important thing for me to get into next? The car is just a street car and I'm only chasing a reliable 300-350hp atw but I'm hoping to see some track time and I do go to the drags a bit.

Thanks I'll give them a call.

Bump.. still looking guys.

How much for the shifter boot/handbrake boot posted to Perth?

Maybe someone has one laying around from a half cut? Needed urgently, PM me.

Cool thanks for the help guys hopefully I can get it fixed today.

Okay, is it a good idea to replace it with one of those heavy duty ones I've seen? I think they're Nismo, would all the mounts be exactly the same etc?

I'm having some problems with my gearbox/clutch/pedal. I was driving and the clutch pedal dropped away from my foot maybe 2-3cm. The clutch is still there but I have to push the pedal right up against the firewall to disengage it. I've tried to bleed the system and I'm certain there is no air in there, also replaced the slave cyclinder. The clutch doesn't feel as heavy as it used to be, I'd say it's 30% lighter right up until just before I get to the firewall then it's about the same as it used to be. It's an OS Giken twin plate in a S1 R33 GTST and I'm totally stuck for ideas, the clutch works fine and doesn't slip at all but it's very hard to make it disengage so I've kept the car off the road until I can get it sorted out. 2 things I have noticed: The bracket that holds the pedal in seems to be flexing sideways when I put the clutch pedal in, on further inspection I noticed there was 2 small 'tabs' holding the bracket together on the side closest to the transmission, these little tabs have broken though I don't know if it's related or not. Secondly when I push the clutch in there is a fair ammount of movement of the actual master clyinder in the engine bay, it flexes out a good 3cm. If it makes any difference the pedal dropped away while I was driving the car after changing the gearbox oil, I wasn't driving hard just giving the gearbox oil a chance to spread around and do it's thing. Any help is much appreciated guys I really can't afford to put it into a shop so soon after Christmas.