TTT

Hi Terry GT-R34!!

one of the wheel nuts have gone awol. where can I get another? what size is it? standard R32/r33 nut. located in qld cheers

what turbo do you have that has a 4 inch opening on the front? I'm about as anti pod as it comes. however, Lets take Andru's (r34NRG) car as an example. he has just spend seriously large dollars to have an RB30/25 built for him. forged this, forged that, multi thousand dollar turbo this etc etc. if he has this sort of cash, then I assume he will have no problems forking out another $500 to have a carbon fibre air box created, with well designed COLD air intake piping, completely sealed from engine bay and best flowing pod filter he can sign a cheque for. then pay to get it engineered. fine. Let's take for example, an R32 GTST. Stock air box has it's intake on the bottom/front corner of the box. with a small section of piping that sits behind the passenger side headlight. drop in a K&N or whatever brand you're loyal to, panel filter, and as is, it's more than enough for over 200rwkw (which the stock turbo is never going to make) this is ALOT cheaper than getting the same brand pod filter, then creating or paying someone to make you a box for it, then CAI, then engineering for it. end result is the same. lets say in the example of ABU that URAS just posted above. I will assume he has a FMIC so there is already a free hole under the air box. All he has to do now is enlarge that hole, mark the bottom of the box to cut out the same size hole, then get same sized PVC piping and bends required from bunnings and the glue it uses.. put it all together and it will be as good as ANY aftermarket unobtanium materialed pod box you will buy. and all it will cost him is like $20 if that for the PVC and glue. AND, no engineering, no hassle from cops. pop the bonnet, it's all standard. track only cars... go for gold. have no filter for that matter. This is for about 95% of our community. the other 5% do have ridiculously powered cars with mods worth more than 3 times the price of the car. show cars with shiney everything and a factory black plastic air box will not be suitable... so fair enough. I highly doubt that the 95% of us would EVER have a need for a pod filter and the other associated bits to make it legal and worthwile. ABU/URAS Dyno results are a good indication. but road driven cars behave differently than running from 2000rpm to 7000rpm over and over. was the Dyno fan turned off in between runs like it would be in traffic? no.. and why would you.. that wasn't the intent of the test. Also, you guys changed the intake pipe aswell as the airbox. was it sucking closed? $5 to do the "REV210" intake pipe mod instead of how many dollars for the silicon intake? anyway.. enough rambling. I can't help being a tightarse..

well? are you?

why is it so important to be different than everyone else? I don't get the obsession.

what is an S15 red top? you talking about the motor (as in red top that only came in the S13's)?

not in the dog mount position. only during the nutsdeepinthroat position will she make a sound close to Dose.

no it's a manual one. like this setup yeah stockers are 6.5 wide. still fits 225's which is what is stock on GTR 8 inch wide rims. besides, it's a street car. it's fine. The front antisway bar should make a good improvement and same for the controller. your one isn't a turbotech one is it?

I think the main problem you're going to have here is traction.. I can't help you with the sump but I do have some random questions.. What model GTR did the motor come from? Are you going to freshen it up in anyway before putting it in your gtst? was it from a running car? compression test? It'd be a pain in the arse to have to do any og that work when it's in the car.

To have a turbo mounted up in the look at me area, you need a manifold that is made to high mount a turbo. almost ALL after market manifolds are like this. To be honest with you, I have NEVER bought anything from Ebay. and the numbr of people with cracked manifolds from ebay goes to show the quality. some people have had them working fine "AFTER" they've made a few mods to the manifolds like adding more welds to the joins, adding brackets to keep the weight off it etc. Check the traders for sale section of this forum for manifolds. also search "6boost" for what some people consider to be the BEST manifolds around. ofcourse his prices start around 4 times what you pay for ebay junk. but come with a lifetime warranty or something. Most of these manifolds have provision for an external gate. Those people who have the pod mounted directly to the turbo have done one of 2 things. 1.) got an aftermarket ecu which uses MAP sensor (Mass Air Pressure) to get air measurements instead of the MAF (Mass air flow - An air flow meter) or 2.) they have modified their intercooler piping to include the AFM on to the intercooler piping tract somewhere (this is common with the VL Turbo commodore DOSEing crowd - search the Calaisturbo.com forums for that if you don't know what DOSE is)

Juz - If I knew you in person, I'd punch you square in the mouth if you spoke in your gansta shit. grow up mate. do you see anyone else talking like Vanilla Ice in here? You are but one of Many little skool holleydayz kids that come on here starting stupid shit and lieing to increase the E-respect or something. Head on over to boostcruising for that type of shit. and LEARN TO SPELL. Aiight.. Peace out homes.. Word to your mother..!

R33 does not use the same system as R32. power steering fluid has no bearing on R33 HICAS. search on here will tell you how to diagnose it.

If your dyno graph shows no boost until 5000rpm on your GCG rb25 hiflow on an RB20, then you have tune problems. look at all the other rb20 dyno results in the dyno thread. there are much bigger turbo's and even r33 hiflow turbo's which produce numbers way before 5000rpm. Just a couple I can remember that are "similar" to an R33 hiflow on an RB20.. Roy - TD05 20G-8cm. makes over 1 bar boost by 4500rpm. CEF11E - Slide hiflow (similar to GCG but non BB) 19 psi, 4200rpm makes 240rwkw

I thought you were 15. how have you had a GETZ for 3 years?

It's good that you like it. it's your car. You were after opinions.. I just think the black comes down too far. and it makes it look as though it wasn't thought out very well (to me!). I don't mind cars which are 2 toned with a massive range of colours.. even those ugly gold and brown silvia's look ok sometimes. but this black comes down too far I think. As someone mentioned earlier, if it had stopped at the bonnet/top of the guards level, it would have looked great. Mine is painted Westinghouse white from factory and I think it looks better than that combo you've done. Having said that, I like both the black or the candy red you used, but on their own. not in that design.

I have found a mate who wants to swap my Ipood nano for a boost controller and front antisway bar. so that covers that. I like the stock R32 rims. I'll be keeping those. The 33 ones I will sell after cleaning them up and painting them knee grow. the tyres on them are practically new.

Juz = an already existing member with a new account.. surely! If not - get one of these. http://www.gumtree.com/posting_images/12/2...91d.__big__.jpg or if you must get RWD http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y201/Corzza/AE71.jpg then when you're a growd up, get your skyline. they'll be worth about $700 by then. and you could easily afford it with your SAKE money

for future reference: stock turbo and manifold = Low mount. turbo sitting up the top on tubular manifold = highmount. stock skyline intercooler setup = side mount Stock GTR intercooler setup = Frun moun Stock WRX or GTiR intercooler setup = top mount your mum, on her knees, face pressed in to carpet with me on her back = dog mount

I like the before photos if that's anything to go by.

buy one already done for sure. there is always someone who spent the dosh and now can't afford to keep it.. bargain for you.

$32K are you crazy????????? just give it away why don't ya!!! you've spent too much on this to sell it for that price.. it's going to be a good buy for someone...

f**k the game... what are you going to do about those feet?

If I were you, I'd just keep my eyes open for late model R33 suspension (say from a 40th anniversary edition R33 series 2 - I think 98 model) they are the newest old shocks you will be able to get. For someone looking to replace a leaking shock on a road car that is used for commuting, it's abit silly to be recommending SK's $2K kit or Teins for $1k+ rebuilding the stocker for $80 sounds more up your alley I'd say. does that make them "good as new" so to speak?

anyway, I say stick to S13. SR20 powered too. As I mentioned earlier in this thread.. The guy I was refering to is one of the guys from the PEER drifitng team. S13 with 220rwkw. he's pretty much at the top of the field somewhere. in the grand scheme of things, that is fark all power. I mean, most S15 with stock turbo and support mods make 200rwkw. fully loaded on the road a stock sr powered S13 weighs about 1150kg. probably get that to 1000kg if it's a track only car. and.. quick search shows that an SR powered one starts around the $8K mark with some mods.. Shitbox S13 or an RB powered one for same price.. RB S13 - $8K You rock up to one with $6.5K give them the old "take it or leave it" drive it home. strip it down to it's undies. sell all the parts to some NS.com member. sell the motors you have and any other bits you won't need. spend that cash on the suspension you'll need for arse dragging - sorry... drifting.. I would say it would cost less than buying the $1K chassis and putting your engine in it, then doing everything else to get it going.

bahahaha.. forget the house man.. You're never going to outright own one anyway.... not when it matters.. what you are going to have is a mortage until you are retired, then live in it for a few more years till you die at which point your kids and grandkids are going to sell it and use the money to do up an R31 or silvia for drifting. f**k them!! you do it.