TTT

I'll be getting it done, but I'm not paying extra to get him here to do it live. My planned list of mods are the same as sidr20 in sydney who got a bees dick under 200rwkw. All I will do is get those mods, then get Toshi to send me a pre-mapped ECU. plug it in on a dyno, all is good. then send him my one as return. it'll be around $350 from what he's told me. I know how most people feel about buying "pre-tuned" tunes, but I don't really care. If there is a problem, take it out, put in the stocker and get my money back. IF he is willing to tune it while he is up here for the same price as postal service, then I'm in.

Noel was working on his nugget back when YODA was in kindy. Old and Angry you are, take it easy you should, haemorrhoids you might get.. hrrmmm!

they are like any other bov. what's to set up? vacuum line goes on top little nipples, plumbback return hose goes over the front.

S13 turbo good diff stiff suspension drivers seat, steering wheel, gear stick, dash, good front tyres. Basically, after that it's practice and money. Can't remember who it is that is up there in the AUS drift scene who has an S13 or is it a onevia (s13 and 180 front end) who has about 220rwkw and is one of the most competitive cars on the scene.. a stock S15 turbo'd SR20 with tuning and fuel mods etc will make about 200rwkw. a stock S13 is about 1100kg. remove anything not required and close to 1000kg.

Hi, I'd been trying to swap these wheels at first, but gave up. bought myself a set of stockers so these are now up for sale. http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d158/T_T...t/1-800x600.jpg http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d158/T_T...t/3-800x600.jpg http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d158/T_T...t/2-800x600.jpg 18x8's rear tyres are 245's and Dunlop SP 9000's fronts are 235's and a mixed pair.. PCD = 5x114.3 Offset = I can't find them on the back of the rims. - pics in this thread and other thread will tell you how it looks on an R33. No spacers are used. more pics and conversation is in the previous swap thread. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sw...tml&hl=swap Price = Offers over $600 I weighed them when I took them off. 21kg each (with tyres) not bad considering the stockers I put on were 17.5kg and these are 2 inches larger in diameter and 1.5 inches wider and the tyres are bigger again. Location = Brisbane Northside. Will fit all 5 stud skylines (probably not GTR offset though), all falcons and commondores.

You're obviously new to this country.

so it was new or known to be working

www.treadsinternational.net. go there.!

I heard it was on stock injectors, AFM and fuel pump too.

did you replace the AFM from a car that was working fine? or from the wreckers?

did they Modify the "D" on your plates before handing them to you and were they giggling?

basically, it is a series 1 with Teins, front and rear strut bars, bov and exhaust and stereo. $10K sounds like a fair price with all that on there. I think that colour is the hardest to sell. You do know that there are baby seat mounting points in the back of these cars right? If my Lab can fit, your baby can.

need for gearbox depends on driving style. see the car in the vid in my signature. 260rwkw stock rb20 block and head. td06 20g (8cm) ecu blah blah blah. 8800rpm 22 psi (I think) stock rb20 gearbox The details of his motor is in that rb20 dyno thread somewhere. it's Roy's car. Edit - here is his post http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=1895402

220rwkw? for the $5K you have to spend, you could make a reliable 250rwkw out of the RB20. without the hassles of rego paper work, engine swap, being off the road for ages etc. to make 220rwkw out of an RB25 you are going to need upgraded.... intercooler, fuel pump, afm, injectors, turbo, exhaust, ecu, tune now, if you buy the above parts for the RB20 you already have, you will still make over 220rwkw and not have to fork out for the purchase of RB25, gearbox, tailshaft, engine swap costs. If your goal was on the crazy side of 250rwkw, i'd understand the need for more capacity. just a thought mate. I think spending the cash on the rb20 will yeald good results for less money. have a look in to the RB20 dyno results thread in the forced induction section to see what mods make what power on peoples cars.

I went and got my tyres from them on Tuesday. they have a shit load (and I mean SHIT LOAD) of tyres that have just come in and have now been unloaded and grouped. all with heaps of tread. NOTE: They do not fit tyres They only take CASH. They sent me down the road to BRIJI's auto who fitted and balanced them for me for $10 each. I saw plenty of semi slicks and all sizes of everything. if anyone is considering getting some, I suggest you heap down. Another note: The street they are on is more pothole than road and currently has workers digging shit up. drive slowly or risk breaking shit

Happy birfday Bruvva

attitude doof. Bman made mention of getting the RTA to give you regular joe average plates till they sort out getting your plates back or making you new drpoof plates back on page 1 or something. you saw the 6 weeks part and kept complaining. all ended well anyway. got your plates back and can drive your car.

nizmonut - 400rwhp @ 8psi = awesome

Can't help you with your problem. but I sure as f*k hope that there will be vids of rb24/t04z posted eventually.

does it come factory with leb spec intiria bro?

Decent old Z?????

agreed. once that is done, get your self a $30 turbo tech boost controller, a walbro fuel pump, then talk to "TOSHI" or "CEF11E" from these forums regarding remaps will cost you from about $100 - $200 for the remap. 12-14 psi (depends on what you want to run and what you feel is safe) should net you somewhere between 170-190rwkw depending on Dyno.

Banging the arse out of some chick on a contiki tour that you are never going to see again will put a smile on your face for many many months after. Many! Not sure how many if any of you would remember the Fairstar.. the f**k ship!

on a stock R33 set up, the line goes from the actuator to the intercooler pipe. so you can "tap a nipple" into the cooler piping or you can actually tap a nipple in to the compressor housing like it is setup on the stock RB20 turbo. obviously, what ever you tap in to would need to be done off the car as it requires drilling and little metal filings. I have seen some people connect it to the line that goes to the bov. I'd try to keep the line as short as possible.

even the stock gtst one is open at idle. but as soon as you rev a little bit, the vacuum sucks it shut. just try it plumbed back.