TTT

it's more than tyres that provide traction. and having 235's over 225's will make bees dick of a difference. with 260rwkw, and foot to the floor in 1st 2 gears will probably end up with a smoke show with any tyre. your suspension plays a big part in traction.

they are the same mate. R32, R33, R34 all have the same Mitsubishi bov.

The idle dropping and going to 1200rpm is what my R32 was doing when the AFM joints were cracked. I know you have cleaned the AFM but you need to look at the soldering joints in the square box thing on top of the hot wire element. search the forums for "AFM+SOLDER" and you should get a few threads. some have pics and so on. solved my problem.

13L / 100kms Filled up, hit reset on the trip meter, drove around all week, got 399km on the trip meter, refilled again and it took 52L to fill. 52L / 399kms x 100 = 13.03L /100km that's mixed freeway and city driving.

How the hell was your car stock if it had "cooler xaust 14psi and a mines tuned ecu" and making 244hp which I'm guessing is at the wheels? so 182rwkw skyline with exhaust, intercooler, a tuned ECu and double stock boost. This is your idea of a STOCK car?

I'll be getting it from Nissan for sure. I also noticed that the sump was painted with the plug on there.. All good now for another 5K kms.

the plugs I took out were NGK iridiums. heat range 5, gap 1.1mm the last photo is a smear of the oil that was in the car (on the left) and the new oil (on the right) I used the gauge feeler tool to make sure that all the new plugs were infact 0.8mm - and they were.

well.... lol.. I am by no means a weak fella... but I couldn't get the bolt off. I used the vice grips. I used them, and clamped them on there so tight, that it actually crushed the bolt head somewhat. and yet, it still stripped the head of the bolt more and still didn't get it off. I then filed some of the edges to try to fit a 13mm open ended spanner. I hammered the spanner on to it, then it still stripped it and wouldn't come off. tried the cold chisel and hammer, made a big dent in to the bolt etc and still didn't move. I drove to the nearest Kmart tyre and auto, up on a hoist, they grabbed a plumbers adjustable pipe wrench thing, clamped it on, then with a little body weight behind it, cracked the seal. I got them to just slightly tighten it back on then drove it home. Went to supercheap with the wifes car and got 6 plugs, and a new bolt (I told him it was a 14mm head on it and he supplied what turned out to be a 14mm thread bolt) So I have done an oil change and re-used the same sump bolt. tightened by vice grips. bolt head is totally rounded. but it's ok for now. anyway, while the oil was draining (see pics as to why an oil change was needed) I removed the coil packs and gave them a good clean with the electrical contact cleaner - see pics replaced the plugs with new plugs - see pics removed and cleaned the AFM with the same contact cleaner. Blocked off the bleed hole in the stock bov via extra gasket thanks to Diet Coke can. New oil filter, new oil and everything back on and the car feels great. Not sayings it's faster, but it just feels smoother. anyway, I will get a new sump plug for the next service. What a head f**k. Parts used: NGK Copper plugs - BCPR6ES (this is the model that is already gapped to 0.8mm - the ones that are 1.1mm are labeled BCPR6ES-11) OIL - Castrol Edge 10W60 (took just over 4.5L - about 4.7L - I had the oil draining for about 1 hour) OIL Filter - Valvoline V04 Electrical Contact Cleaner (purchase from Tandy type store) Diet coke can for gasket

I have burrowed a some Vice grips from my neighbour. Will try those first on Saturday morn when I get back under it. I also burrowed a cold chisel if it comes to that.. Will also buy some plugs on the way home tonight to make a morning out of it tomorrow. BCPR6ES is it?

It works differently to the other Boost controllers. as Gary puts it... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=1159436 Hand controllers?? http://jaycar.com.au/productResults.asp?FORM=KEYWORD

get it engineered, then provide details of mods, and the engineering cert to your insurer, then get another loan to pay for the premium. I love seeing threads by you about your awesome engine. I'm looking forward to others in the near future

well.. it's like this.. Having your license is like having sex on Tap.. Good sex.. Hot sex. You lose that, and you can have all the blow up dolls, vaso and porn you can buy to replace the real thing, but in the end, after you've left your load in that plastic bitch, and wiping your wang before you turn off that porn, you will think about how much you miss real hot poontang. So I've been told.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wt...er-t213108.html

I'll contact you when I get the dump pipe/front pipe and intercooler

well well.. if it isn't capitan Fashion himself..

has this engine ever run fine before the fuel pump change? have you changed the fuel filter? when you say you tested the fuel pump, how did you test what happens when you place load on it? (not free rev) have you got the old fuel pump you can put in to test?

it's pronounced, BeeTak

It's fine. if there was a problem, like it has been said, it would have been a HUGE failure. like get a tow truck home failure. a few years ago, there was a link being sent around to a US honda forum where some guy was doing a run on the freeway in his DC5R when they were new. shifted from 4th at 8500rpm to 3rd instead of 5th. resulted in what looked like the end of Terminator 2, where the liquid metal terminator is in the lava shit. go do a regular service with new oil and oil filter for the engine and maybe change your gearbox oil and diff oil for good measure too.

well drop me a PM next week I guess.

this is why I want to swap/replace.. if this is what someone is interested in then by all means.. lets swap.

as above.. I don't like the aftermarket one that came with the car. Just prefer a stock series 1 steering wheel. I can even swap for the one that is in my car with boss kit too if someone is interested (can get pics if anyone is interested.) Don't want any tears on the wheel.. I know it's rare but there must be some around. thanks

more details as above please.. series 1 or 2? When you say "wrecking all parts off my R33", what is damaged and what is available? which area are you in?

is that price for the set? as in gear lever boot and hand brake boot? $50 delivered to Brisbane for the pair? R33 gtst (series 1 if that makes any difference)

Item: JayCar Independant Electronic Boost controller Age: New Condition: Wonderful - put together, but never used. Price: $50 (kit price is $80 when buying from Jaycar) To Fit: Any car (works with Stock R33 boost solenoid) Location: Brisbane Contact: through this thread or PM Comments: you can find all the details about this controller from Jaycar ( LINK ) And you can read the review that our own Sydneykid gives it Here Pic here Will post anywhere at your expense. Willing to swap for Stock R33 Air box and snorkel

SAU Does not condone losing to Camry's. Please stop doing so immediately or you will be banned.