TTT

get on the car as in "more boost"? more boost = more air flow etc etc.. try budget option of taping up the coil packs. search for "Tape+up+coil+packs" it costs you 30 minutes and the cost of a few rolls of good electrical tape. should give you some time to buy splitfires or something. also, when you say you gapped the plugs down to "32" what measurement is that?

coil packs

Modena - bit of an off topic question but... Do you live at home now or are you renting your "OWN" place.. as in are you in the real world yet? this "buying my first home" dream is very different once you take the plunge. it's like budgetting for an engine conversion.. it always costs double what you think. Hope you're smart about what you are buying and what you can "very comfortably" afford to pay back

If money was no objest, he wouldn't have bought an R32 GTST, nor would he say that when he can afford it, he will buy an R34 GTT anyway, I'm sure there is enough feedback in this thread to help him make up his mind.

what is it with Noel and Jacks...

see.. you can do shit yourself.. I'd say the majority of the forum can do stuff like oil, filter, spark plugs etc. but not actually build an engine.. nor have the required tools to do so. that includes turbo and manifold, injectors? as in $6500 ready to slot in and tune?

I don't think SK's 800hp, RB31det powered, stripped out, caged, unregisttered R32 GTST is what you'd call a street car. no-one is doubting that the RB20 is the bottom of the barrel RB (anchor) (Hi Roy..!!) but he has now mentioned a goal of 300hp. and without offending him, his questions kinda come across as someone who is not "able" to do any of the work himself when talking an engine conversion. so for the amount of money he would have to fork out to even PURCHASE a front cut, he could spend it on his RB20 to make the power he wants. CEF11E made 240rwkw with 19psi using a $800 slide hi flow turbo along with supporting mods on a stock RB20. he then put together an RB25/30. BY HIMSELF. he did it ALL by him self. no workshop used AT ALL... and he is $5K poorer for it. and his build was a stock bottom end, stock head, replace valve springs with second hand GTR ones. use as much of his existing parts as possible. it's not cheap man.. you should know (2630GTS).. what $$$$'s is yours up to now and it's still not running... and you should also know that your current RB20det made close to his power goal.... wasn't it 210rwkw for your RB20? what did that cost you?

Having said all that, you are after 300hp. I assume you mean at the wheels. 300hp = 223kw. that sort of power is easily attainable from the RB20. Not sure what you already have so will assume a stock car. hi flow turbo = $850 (Hypergear or JJR or KKR) turbo back exhaust = $700 (Just Jap - Xforce) Intercooler = $500 (Just japs new return flow cooler which uses stock pipes) Fuel pump = $200 (Bosch, Walbro, anything bigger/newer than your current one really) GTR injectors and resistor = $200 (from the forums) Z32 afm = $250 (From the forums) boost controller = $30 (turbo tech bleed valve) Rechip of stock ecu = $200 (CEF11E - the guy who posted at the top of this page) Grand total = about $3K If you already have some of these mods, reduce the price. NOTE: I haven't included any costs for labour. fitting some of thos things might not be something you can do yourself, so you will be charged by a mechanic to do it. For $3K, you can't get a stock RB25 fitted in to your car. and if you somehow managed, you would have about 140rwkw or what ever it is a stock RB25 makes at the wheels. Just do the best that you can with what you have.. when you have the dollars, buy a better car.... like the R34 gtt you mentioned.

I've had 2 RB20's and now my first RB25.. 20 has nothing over the 25. even in standard form. yeh the shape may be ugly, but the fact that the R33 costs less than the R32, has better brakes, better gearbox, better engine and only an extra 50-60kg, a true "performance enthusiast" would over look the camry looks.

Got one.. Please close.

I'd buy one already done. there was/is one for sale on this site for about $15K

just called Cresta.. message.. "Hi. thanks for calling Cresta australia. Unfortunately, we are no longer open for business and therefore will not be blah blah blah..." GOOOONE!!! Tried STZ - they don't have any.. I'll try gaybarn and supacrap this weekend.

Just called... didn't have any.. col - where is cresta? any contact details? ABC at Oxley is a little too far so will leave it as a last resort.

You mean like this?? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...-E-t207769.html

Compuuu tahhh

sooo.... which "hiflow" was this? pm me if its a secret.

anyone got a spare or a wreck or something? Will pick up. How many Dorra? or are there any jap wreckers that the Brisbane guys use that I could contact?

I'd suggest you for out for a manual conversion. then add that to the asking price. then it would sell. well.. sell to someone who wants a car that colour.

thought this might be of interest for someone in here... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3699871

You obviously have some sort of issue with me wanting to swap my wheels cause you don't like them.. and you have nothing to swap. I don't remember saying "I'm looking for a dumbarse who wants to give me their 17 inch TE37's for my Aussie made apparently heavy 18's with no cash adjustment" But if you want to keep arguing go right ahead. Some people will consider me being stupid for going from 18's to 17's. I also said, I'd "Prefer" light Jap wheels. The only thing I said I wouldn't want is CHROME. please.. carry on trying to make your useless point.

You in QLD or VIC?

Nice opinion. I'm sure you will also know that there are alot of bigger is better skyline owners who may have imported a car with a set of 17's they don't like. thanks anyway. Noel - thanks mate.. was getting a bit worried you were ignoring me.

I'd consider them, but would expect cash on top. Iceberg - nice try. fair swap too hey?

Just want to confirm your numbers.. How do you know that you got 140km out of 20L? you filled your car to the brim, then drove for 140km then filled up again and only got 20L? or car was bone dry, you put in 20L then when you got to 140km you ran out of juice and parked it? point I'm making is that by looking at your fuel gauge then odometer to judge isn't acurate. if you want a true indication, just fill up the tank to the top. reset the trip counter to 0000 drive around all week or whatever. Fill up to the top again and make note of litres you put in, and what the trip meter now says. example. you filled up, hit reset, drove around for 5 days, did 280km, filled up again and put in 50L on fill up. that would mean. 50L divided by 280km times 100 = 17.85L per 100km. 50/280*100 = 17.857 your example above would be 20/140*100 = 14.285L per 100km (which is about normal for mixed driving..) but to get a proper gauge of what it's using, you have to fill up and reset, drive, fill up and calculate properly.

that's why I said most. and did you tune it? did you see it being tuned? do you have a PFC hand controller where you can see the AFM voltage? is it not hitting max (4.8 or whatever it is) way before redline? You can tune the car still once it has passed max voltage.. but it's not as accurate. which kinda defeats the purpose of having an AFM equipt car.. and it is kinda in the zone where you would want to place the most emphasis on getting the tune right.