TTT

it's funny how in the second hand market, Auto cars fetch about $2K less than manual, when they cost about $1500 more when new. $15K gets a decent condition series2 manual in a private sale. I'd assume you MIGHT be able to sell the auto series 2 for about $12K - maybe.. if someone wanted an auto. don't even bother with trade in. Actually, go and get a dealership quote on trade in. then I'll give you $500 more. I've got $10K to spend on a car so that should easily outbid the dealer and buy your car and insurance, and possibly a few mods..

Obviously I will look at the for sale section and the usual web car sale sites. But I thought I would post this here just incase someone was thinking about selling their car but hadn't got around to advertising etc. I want an R33 GTST, in manual. 2 door or 4 door is fine. I will consider any colour (even the lovely 2 tone). km's must be under 150,000kms (not that it means much in imports but it keeps the peace... Stock or modded is fine. must have rego and a safety cert. must have alarm with 3pt immobiliser (or at be at least $700 less then other cars to get decent alarm install) Must be in the immediate brisbane area (perhaps up as far as sunshine coast and as far as Gold coast) small scratches etc don't bother me.. but no accident damaged cars please. I don't expect any series 2 cars but will not say no if you want to lose that much money No fart arsing around. Will have the cash before the end of the week. I will be trying to get a car either this weekend or by latest the next weekend. so.. who wants my money... SELL ME YOUR CAR. Man wants R33 GTST... strange but true. MODS - Please do NOT move this to the general WTB section as I am specifically looking for Brisbane residents who are selling. thanks.

oh jebus... what he means is that "he" thinks that the tune is a little lean. as in too much air compared to fuel that is mixed. puting your air box on instead of pod has nothing to do with this. surely where you are in Japan, you can find a dyno to have a run. this will give you a printout of what your A:F mixture is. also, how much boost are you running? that IS an oil pressure guage. no stock Fuel pressure gauge on skylines. You make no mention of changing your 1990 model Fuel pump. before changing injectors which will require a tune afterwards, perhaps replace the 18 year old fuel pump with a new item from one of MANY brands to choose from depending on your budget. and how exactly did you "test" the coil packs? as in, you tried a set from a car that is working fine? and what gap is on the spark plugs? what kind of spark plugs did you use?

the first number I'd believe.. the second seems a little hard to swallow. that's 145rwkw @ 14psi - stock turbo and 182rwkw @ 12 psi - rb25 turbo. was it on the same dyno?

You could get in to the 12 bracket with adding the following to your current mods. Large hi flow cat - $300? aftermarket dump pipes and front pipes - $??? really not sure what GTR parts are worth in this department. remap ecu - $anywhere from $150 - $600 14psi - $free if you remove the restrictor or $40 for a manual turbotech boost controller or from $300 for a brand name EBC. that should give you something around 250rwkw. if the clutch is up to it, side step it from 6500rpm and get your shifts right and you'll come back past the timing station with a 12.xx time slip in your hand. obviously, the above is the cheapest option. there is always the option to get PFC, top of the line EBC, CES dump and front pipes with seperate wastegate pipe etc etc.

the response of shifting power up in the revs are stupid. ofcourse it will. ANY turbo other than stock will have power come on a little later. but will have more power. the difference is like 300-500rpm. once all the boost is in, you have heaps more torque and power from there on. I don't see what there is to discuss. $350 for turbo $300 for labour to fit it $150 for chip $50 for a dyno run to confirm the mixtures are good. this is "THE" cheapest power up on an RB20det. next step up from there is double the dollars, a fraction more power, more lag. up from there again is an RB25 transplant. = even more money resulting in stock RB25det.

hmmm.. seems to be a network error between brain and fingers. Ping test results in some packet loss.

do you have a dyno prinout with A:F line for current setup? has it done it since day 1 or just started?

I wouldn't go saying he will guarantee anything. especially not on his behalf. dyno's give different results. the fact is, rb25 turbo flows 15% more air than the RB20 one will at the same boost. with tuning, it will be a great little upgrade. just realised how many times I've typed CEF11E's name incorrectly. n00b!

the jerking or the farting?

Fart and a jerk hey? these descriptions are getting worse by the minute.

what a farking joke. let me tell you what really happened.. your tiny upgrade job was not worth their time. That is spasctic. Please do me a favour and listen to me. I can give you the details of my mechanic which I used exclusively for over 6 years when I lived in sydney. he is a regular mechanic. he can pull shit aprt and put shit back together. he does not do any tuning. he will do all mechanical work from oil change to rebuild engine. He is a greek guy who works with his wife and another mechanic. he is honest and reliable. he has done my turbo for me, on my skyline, my galant vr4. he has done an RB25 turbo on to RB20 for another member on here that I sent to him. He will quote you what it will cost (I will assume around $300) and will call you when it's done. the bill will be what ever he quoted you. His workshop is in Bankstown (don't hold that against him). Once the turbo is on, just speak with CEFFIE on these forums. tell him what you have (exhaust, intake, rb25 turbo, stock injectors, walbro pump). ask him what boost he suggests you run with one of his remaps and just do it.. ($150 someone else has said for theirs) CEFFIE did the exact same thing before he went all out on his own motor. If you want my mechanics details let me know and I will PM you his contact details and address. I can't believe they talked you out of the turbo. they probably had bigger dollar work that they could fit in to that 2.5 hours. CRD is obviously a massively popular and brilliant workshop. but the fact is, they don't have time for tightarse mods like we do on budgets.

^^ yeh but more rice

RB20 ones seem to go for $10K or below.. $10K would be in pretty damn good condition. RB25 converted ones go for about $13K'ish RB26 would be $15K and over I'd assume.. it's one of those things that has a special buyer though. it's not common. you really need to be lucky and have someone looking for an RB26 powered R31 while yours is for sale.

it's all in the muff. get a centre muffler (not a resonator.. a muffler) between the cat and the rear muffler. that will keep it quiet. try not to use any cannon mufflers.

wow... though guy..

I AM DEEPLY OFFENDED BY ALL THE RACISM IN THIS THREAD. I feel uncomfortable being in a community where people generalise that Japanese people are all small. I DEMAND THAT EVERYONE ABOVE GETS A WARNING!!!!! The rules apply to everyone on this forum right?

Just one.. It's the word that sits between "members" and "help" up the top of the page. right under the words SKYLINESAUSTRALIA Click it. then press the following buttons on your Keyboard. Rb26 Inlet Manifold And Adaptation To Rb25 Heads Then press the "GO" button or hit the enter key on the keyboard. The choice is yours.

they don't really offer any benefit over the stock R32 or R33 wheels. 0.5 inch wider is the only benefit (but makes no difference as you can't put a larger tyre on it anyway.) so unless someone likes the style you wouldn't get any more than what stock R32/33 wheels go for.. about $300 with tyres. and the tyres you have aren't all new and having one new and one older will probably not be road worthy being on the same axle. unless the tyres are an expensive tyre to begin with (as in some sort of semi slick or at least a top shelf street tyre) then maybe you could ask for more.. Does the non turbo R34 have 4 piston brakes? if not, the offset of these wheels might not suit turbo skylines with the larger brakes.. might want to check that out..

NOT BB

but explain the moment of the jerking (eewww) is it, when foot is on clutch, or when in gear and accelerating AFTER changing gears? may be a stupid question but have you taken the stock bov off and checked to make sure it's not blocked off with a plate? or that the plumback line doesn't have a cork of some kind in there? this is the way I see it. 1.) car jerks when accelerating after chaning gears.. as in you are back on the boost = R&R 2.) car jerks when you are off the accelerator AFTER boosting = blocked bov. you have said that you get flutter so I am leaning towards the fact that either the bov is blocked or that the tiny bleed hole under the bov base is blocked. either way. a few clamps and 2 bolts and the bov comes off. remove it and check what I mentioned.

JZ's fit in the Beemers easier than RB's. JZ has inlet and exhaust on the same side of engine as stock BMW engines. having said that, SR20's and RB20's have been inserted in to BEEMA's before. the extra 38mm of RB30 might be a problem.

Explain this again. you are in lets say 2nd gear. foot to the floor, you accelerate to 6000rpm? then step on clutch to change gears. you hear some flutter and the car jerks a little (while you are off the gas). or does the jerking happen once you've got in to next gear and plant it again?

no shit bollocksnuckle. is anyone debating that? He is thinking of going from a skyline to a 2000 model rex. he is looking to spend $17K and your contribution is "evo > rex" WOW. Brilliant. Please... give us more guidance. what other mystical and magical words of wisdom do you have for us?

because most R33's with RB25 engines are running near max voltage after 200rwkw. at 220 that you want, they will be past their resolution. and series 1 to series 2 AFM are slightly different. but still max out at the same level. you are changing the afm. might as well start with the right one instead of having to change it again in the future.