TTT

if you still have the plug packs, see what the part number is. they usually go BCP..... 11 or BCP....8 if it's 11, then you'll need to re-gap them. it might be all it is.. and it's only 30 minutes of your time and no extra money.

on a side note, I serviced my Liberty last week. the air box is the same as many other cars (commodore, nissans, etc) subaru sells for $18. Holden sells for $12. same filter, same part number. also, RYCO and Valvoline etc all make replacements for these boxes.

wouldn't it be dangerous to cut fuel in a situation of full boost? Surely you don't want to have any lean situation .... I would have thought a timing retard/cut for rev limit or overboost would be a better option. anyway, I think the point of this thread was pod or air box. Air box for the win. standard filter or other Panel filter. but for under $20 for a brand new OEM filter, you can't go wrong. and could easily replace it each service and know you have a perfectly clean, perfectly filtering new filter.

Fuel cut hey? interesting..

out of your list, get the 180sx. outside that.. Legnum VR4 Wagon. Stags are too heavy. 1710kg are they?

Can you confirm the JJR coils are working (don't care if they are new) plug them in to a mates car with same motor and test them out. or use his ones on your car to test out.

Look back a few pages Peter.. Some clown already posted a link to your car. GTST25 - I meant that if you were hitting boost cut with the K&N due to it flowing so well, then how come it didn't do it with NO filter at all.., no restriction so with your theory should flow as much as possible and hit boost cut.

Which model? Cybershot what? P200? may be an odd question but do you have a pic of the camera or a link to the details..?

if you got new pistons and rings etc etc.. then drove it home rich as all f*k, haven't you just glazed the bores? didn't you also prevent the rings from bedding?

You're taking the piss yeh?

so, filter or no filter got the exact same power.. yet paper filter then K&N filter made you hit boost/fuel cut but made no difference in power? that doesn't make any sense..

..and... stock boost of 10 psi?

when you changed the plugs in the skyline, what plugs did you use? and what gap? May be a stupid question but have you got rid of the 95 fuel yet? if not, maybe buy a bottle of good octane booster and dump that in the tank with the 95.. it should bring it's rating back up to 98 or so.

if it only happens under load, then you could only really check them on a dyno. Just tape them up as per instructions in many other threads.. Here is one I bothered to type it all up in http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3202123

that's pretty cool mate.. I'd say that the one I had is a shit load better though.. what do you rekon? http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d158/T_T...20gtst/R327.jpg

What a farkin Rip!!!! An RB26dett transplant would cost less than that..

when you say everything factory... you mean factory turbo's running factory 10 psi? The lowest I've seen is about 170awkw from an R32 GTR with Cat back system only. Stock everything aside from a Compliance Cat and a 3 inch cat back system

since it is an R32 and not R33, it is not rich and retart. your problem will most likely bee spark plug or coil pack related. easy fix. 6 new spark plugs - $24 Roll of good quality Electrical tape - $5 Gap the spark plugs to 0.8mm and put them in (search this forum for the part number of the spark plugs to use) tape up the coil packs which are already out to get to the spark plugs (search this forum for detailed instructions) done. 2 hours and $30 (it may take you less time)

and you are located in the state of........... the colour it was reprayed in is........ no pics = many questions.

and you can confirm that they are "THE SAME" suspension bits that were installed on your car in 1998? NO. I find it very hard to believe ANY stock suspensioned skyline handling better than a stock DC2R or DC5R

yeh RB25 turbo

Looks good.. I've seen ALOT dodgeyer versions.. I think the arguements of making the stock one Front facing is the fact that it is internally designed to have air coming in from the middle of the plenum. having the air come in from the end there throws it all out.. have a look on the inside of the plenum and you'll see the little fins.. How do your spark plugs look? 1 thru to 6? anyway, you didn't want any arguements so I'll leave it there.. it works for you.. all good.

FMIC for $400 involves cuttong a hole in the chassis, trimming the fan blades, cutting the front bar and it's support. $150 R34 GTT side mounted stock intercooler is bigger than the R33 one in each direction, yet is a straight swap (bit tight but still straight swap). it has been proven number of times to be good for cooling and flow for around 220rwkw. your stock turbo will not do any more than that anyway. $150. remove some hose clamps, remove some bolts, remove old intercooker, then reverse the steps with new intercooler. ALSO, SAFC will be tuned on a dyno. that is when I would increase the boost. not before. better safe than sorry. strap the car on. increase boost to 10psi, dyno run, get result. then the tuner goes and makes the adjustments and runs it again, then same step over and over to find the best compromise. expect around 190-200kw Then post a thread on here about your result so everyone can take out there online penises and compare.

I see what's happened here.. Your mates have obviously confused the word TURBO with the word ROTARY.

Radiator was an aftermarket item. well not so much aftermarket.. more from another car. it was twice a thick and a little wider and a little taller. ARC intercooler was good. wasn't really pushed much. I only had 155rwkw with 11psi