TTT

*waits for the mafia re: gt30 and 300rwkw and stock bov*

I did. why don't you state you have a GTST? How is "Updating to an R33 GTR" supposed to tell me you have a GTST? You could be upgrading from an Avalon. besides, you said that sounds like the occasional spirited drive but mainly to commute around. Why waste a GTR on a daily? but it's your money, you obviously want a GTR.. don't know why you bothered to post it if you didn't want to hear other options..

good advice

a little flashing light in your brain? like a robot? You're a robot? like ASIMO? Cool. Dance Tangles, Dance!! I still don't believe that it would need any more cool down than any other turbo. Cooling down essentially means letting the car run so that the oil pump still does it's job to push oil through the engine and turbo. if you've been cruising along before parking, it requires no more cooling than you woudl for the other turbo's.. ie, park, handbrake up, seatbelt off, get out of door, pull pants up, pull undies out of crack, scratch left nut, adjust position of knob, windows up, turn off car.

I disagree Tangles (Surprising hey..) Since you take it easy on the "last km's or so", wether you have oil only or water and oil cooling makes no difference. As an example, if you have your slide turbo on and drive off boosty for the last km or so and when you stop at your driveway, say your oil temp is 90 degrees. same scenario in the oil only cooled turbo will show the same result. and leting it idle at the driveway for 2 minutes or whatnot will only heat it back up as there is no air going past the factory shitty oil cooler on the oil filter adapter thingy. if you thrash the bajebus right up to your driveway, you'd cool either turbo down. if you turned it off straight away, it would seize up either turbo.

look harder bro.

haha.. yeh.. that guy's a f*king knob. as if take all that time to put [ b ] and [ / b ] around someones quotes. wot a idiyot.

How about an AVALON? makes a good road car and you can pull over and have a squirt whenever you like.. honestly, GTST sounds more up your alley.

Nothing wrong with OIL cooled only turbo's As you said, Trust range is like that. yes you get what you pay for. Everyone was all happy as larry about the Slide Hiflows. Now there are threads that pop up everywhere (then locked and deleted) about failures and warranty shit. it's up to you. But just like you, I can't see a better option for $1K when you get manifold turbo, gate etc etc. all pretty much ready to go. EDIT - why not search to see how many people have busted TRUST turbos. Roy has had a TD06 on his RB20 for god knows how long now. He's gone through 1 RB20 block but nothing wrong with the turbo. He's car's seen more track days than most and makes over 250rwkw most of the time. I'm not comparing HG turbos to Trust turbo's... just trying to show the OIL cooled only-phobia people that it's all ok.

Don't get me wrong. It's the design I would do from the start if I was doing a fmic. Gibson motorsport used this on the race R31's.. I just wouldn't have bothered if it already had the U shape across the motor like he already had. each to their own.

I know.. but it doesn't cut boost like say in a wrx

it would be bee's dick difference. but I'm sure you'll THINK you can feel it.

89 gtst = 1290kg 92+ gtst = 1320kg 1450 - 1290 = 160 1450 - 1320 = 130 Half those weights as you say would be 80kg - 65kg you saying the removal of gts4 items and replacing with GTR items will make that kind of difference?

My cat's breath smells like cat food.

1.) GTR and GTS4 power figures don't change much going from rwkw to 4wkw. 2.) Search for threads and posts by user CEFFIE. he has an R32 GTST (rwd) with same turbo as you, remapped ecu blah blah.. currently has an RB30 in there but when the 20 was in there, he cranked out 242rwkw on just under 20psi. 3.) RB30, built by someone else, for a GTS4 does not equal cheap. $6K will only get you the block, head, machining and putting together. turbo, ecu, injectors, afm, etc etc will all cost extra. The Stag half cut would probably be the ONLY way that you can get a responsive GTS4 for cheap. sorry but 1450kg and rb20 in stock form with stock turbo which is on full boost around 3200rpm still feel slugish, let alone a modded one. My choice would be to sell and buy a different car. but if that was not a choice, I'd go the stag engine route, bolt all your bits (turbo, fpr, fmic, k&n etc etc) I'd say since someone else will be doing the work, this will come to about $6K'ish including engine purchase. THEN... sell your re-mapped stock ecu, your RB20det for gts4, RB25 turbo, the 2 bovs you have, splitfire coil packs (don't think they fit the rb25), etc etc... you should make some money back so all in all, it will cost you between $4K - $5K. RB20 from the GTS4 is not as common as the rwd ones. and the rwd ones can't be used in the 4wd ones. so you might get more for it. OR you could strip the engine completely and sel lit in bits. this will get you even more money. I bought a "dead" rb20 for $400 about 4 years ago. when I pulled it apart, it had 1 burnt valve lol.. After selling all the bits and pieces seperately, I made $2300. then gave the bottom end away cause no-one wanted it.

hmmm interesting, magical removal of things that don't exist. This is a good enough reason not to buy anything from that buyer.

Insurance does have the 4 door R32 on their system. Mine was insured through AAMI. true about getting out of the smaller doors. Seating position is the same in 4 or 2 door. all 89 and 90 models 2 or 4 door came with the gaybo cloth trim. funny. I don't I've come across a 91 model R32 yet.. hmmm.

one is a fat whale the other is a fat whale on roids.

how many dollars? why not buy one already here? Looks nice.. Do they come with leather?

4 door looks crap in comparison to the 2 door in my opinion. I've had both and prefer the look of the 2 door. however, if I ever get another, I would need the 4 door. but if you need 4 doors, then might aswell get a skyline instead of a camry. adam - R32 is closer to 1.3tonne. gts4 is a GTR style 1450kg now that is of the suck with an RB20

jizz?? I thought it was Hand and nail cream. tastes like hand and nail cream

You didn't mention the words "IMO or in my opinion" anywhere in your post. you posted "facts" according to you. 200rwkw to 220rwkw is a big difference. stock injectors = 370cc Calculation is (injector size(cc) / 10.6) x 2 = horsepower per injector convert to kilowatts: divide by 1.34 multiply by number of injectors (370/10.6) x 2 = 69.8 69.8/1.34 = 52 52 x 6 = 312kw lose 40-50kw to the wheels = 260 - 270rwkw at 100% duty cycle. take 20% off for good measure 218rwkw @ 80% duty cycle your injectors using the above and your said 60% = 230 - 240rwkw (using 40-50kw loss to the wheels.)

I swear people are joining up and searching for the word "BOV" iam2pro4u replying to a post that is 3 years old. pro ?? best oxymoron (more so moron) example yet.

don't get it repaired. buy another stock auto ecu from wreckers or these forums. cost a fraction of repair.. but you're right. the ecu controlls everything including the auto box. so if it was faulty, it wouldn't run at all. I don't know muuch about auto's, but there must be something that controls idle when in gear. just like when the air con is on etc..

I have higlighted the parts of this post which are utter rubbish. turbo is ball bearing. limit of the turbo is not calculated on a "boost" number. injectors and afm is not out of their range before the turbo is so 200rwkw is within their reach without maxing out either. Hilfow turbo is not required for a safe 200rwkw Stock BOV is perfectly fine for alot more power than the stock or hiflow turbo can flow. No. increasing the boost on a skyline makes the tune go even richer. In R33 skylines, you won't be able to run much more than 10 psi without running in to R&R issues... (which will feel like a boost cut.. or you'll get misfire issues around 4500rpm .. plenty of threads on this issue) the dip in some peoples dyno graphs on R33 skylines is very common with stock ECU.. search for that to find more details.