TTT

Microtechs belong in rotarys. that's all

walbro pump would be the smartest cheapest option for a pump for a rexy.

he already said not for street. but obviously some people didn't see that from their high horses.

I don't see why though. all the rego numbers and engine numbers match. it is still the original block that was rebuilt so no number changes. Built to stock specs using better quality materials so compressions and capacity are all stock. there are no defectable items on it. All emisions stuff is still intack. exhaust is well below sound levels. Ride height is well above minimum. up to you though...

maybe you should just get a DOSE pipe and be done with it mate. obviously the thing you are after..

I'm not against screamer pipes. I'm against screamer pipes on stock turbo's. they sound like shit. it sounds like a hole in the exhaust. or a massive exhaust leak. A large turbo with an external gate does sound tough. but the fact that it's illegal and STINKS out anything it drives past with toxic f*king gasses is shitty. It annoys me when it's used on the street with regular driving because of the noise and smell. there is a reason for a Cat converter and the fact that it is being bypassed causes massive toxic gases.. When you go to a circuit or drags, and you hear a skyline with the boot fair up it with a large turbo and external gate with screamer wide open definitely sounds good. i get the shits with all this on the streets. when your not out there looking to watch racing or race yourself. when you are a regular citizen and some knob head screams past with their exhaust leak and you are left sitting there in the fumes. THAT is why I don't like them Not that any of that matters. any fool that has a stock turbo with a screamer pipe that says it sounds good or similar to an external gated turbo should get their hand off it.

Gemini's are crap. IF you want idea's, then I say go for an E30 series BMW buy an Aristo halfcut glue the two together. or even easier would be a MX73 Cressida with either 1J or 2J. 1J or 2J engines would be a better platform for a crazy "that shouldn't be in there" conversion. BMW's have the exhaust on the drivers side of the engine bay. 1J/2J engines are the same (have the turbos on the drivers side) RB's have their hot bits on the passenger side. This shape Beema http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/comm...W-E30-coupe.jpg if you get a 6 cylinder one (anything over 318 models) then it's already got a straight six in it (sure mounted on a slight angle but that's no problem for this sort of conversion) or if you got more money an E36 beema http://images.paultan.org/uploads/2006/03/emodel_e36.jpg MX73 cressida http://www.ridejudge.com/rides/00038650.jpg or slightly more monies.. MX83 cressida http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p118/bi...31236186114.jpg Here is an MX73 that one of the liberty RS club guys put a 2J in to.. as you can see, it's faster than Victor Bray

I love that it "really" is a stock bottom end. no refresh of anything. take the sohc of and bolt in the dohc. add valve springs and other bits required and turn the thing on

2rismo - nice work. on a more important topic.. I didn't you popped your engine. I didn't know you changed your turbo to be able to run the type of boost to blow your engine.. what's being built for it?

edit: *2rismo*

BAN!!!!

only early model r32's came with RB20 on the cover. 92 and 93 didn't get the rb20 stamped on the belt cover

91 white sedan CP pistons ARP rod bolts Prepped stock rods. new bearings 97 TT heads intake resonator removal pipe modified stock air box and intake snorkel. replaced Coolant header tank. STI clutch aftermarket lightened flywheel. JAYCAR air fuel adjuster. 3" MRT dump/cat/front pipe (to halfway under car) and 3 inch mild steel from there back leading through a resonator and in to a 99 STI muffler. All performance, with a little more sound over stock. KYB damper adjustable and rebuildable shocks lowered king springs to match. whiteline adjustable rear sway bar. DBA slotted disks with quality pads. Engine rebuilt by perFOURmance motorsport.. look them up if you don't know them.. have receipts for over $5K on that alone. Stock VF8 is bolted on and set to 13psi. 12 months qld rego starts in 3 weeks. interior is clean and has had seat covers for most of it's life as it has now. the usual drivers seat, outer edge is worn. has tinted windows pioneer CD head deck and replacement stock sized speakers. rex seats only cost about $500 at most anyway. The body has 316,000kms. engine was rebuilt as a reliability precaution rather than a Necessity hence the stock turbo being back on there. it was built in 2004. Looks wise, it is a stock white Liberty RS that sits a little lower and has a towbar at the rear. If you still want pics, let me know which parts in particular and I'll get some this weekend.

hmmm 800 degrees being shot out of a pipe hanging halfway down the back of the engine bay.. nothing can happen surely. I mean, these engines are only 12-17years old. they woldn't have any oil leaks or anything. especially not from the back of the rocker covers.. naaah.. no way. and surely there aren't any heater hoses or any electrical wiring anywhere near the back lower area of an engine bay these days... I am seriously dissapointed at how much stupid information is given in these forums sometimes. yes it's a public forum to pass your opinion on a subject but for f**ks sake.. the subject is a screamer on a stock turbo and people are saying it will bring boost on faster than a 3inch turbo back exhaust. it will hold boost better. it won't leak on idle. it'll make more power. you people need to get your arse dynos re-calibrated.. don't give out advice unless you have first hand experience or cold hard facts from proper testing. sure give your opinion on the matter like "screamer pipe is sick bro" "you gotta have one to be in the in crowd bro".. etc.. but don't give out bullshit advise.

hey subie.. interested in old subie? say 91 vintage. liberty RS with rebuilt forged engine.

what inside joke? it's all out in the open in this thread.

couple of layers of electrical tape is a cheap way to test if there is any arcing issues that you can't see. tape em up, go for a boot. I did 3 layers when I had mine and it fixed the missfire issue. considering it will set you back maybe $5 and an hour of your time, it's a worthy test before "new ecu" "new coils" "new tune" etc. in the DIY section, there is a thread about this sort of thing and going one further by using spray on silicon spray that hardens up for a full seal.

pinging sounds like this. glass coffee jar. regular glass marble that you used to play with as kids put it in the jar. put the lid on the jar. shake the jar around.. that's the sound of audible pinging. which means that it has been pinging for a long time before that which means you've already done alot of damage.

brilliant. why not buy a cannon muffler, and cable tie it to the other side of the rear of the whale? ALA Corolla's and civics bro. then you got da looks and not da cost.

hot side should be the same size as the turbo outlet, cold side should be same size as throttle body.

It would be interesting to see it.. but you're not going to see it.

this thread is great for stupidity. A+ will read again for laughter.

well there you go.. now open the old AFM up and resolder the contacts.

2 things. 1.) how did you test the coils? how do you come to the conclusion that there is no arcing? Did you remove the bonnet, remove the spark plug cover and strap your mate to the engine, go for a drive at night and load it up on second gear to 4500rpm down the road and get him to yell if he could see any arcing? of course there's no arcing at idle or free reving. there is no load. 2.) R33, stock ECU, 10psi, 4500rpm, misfire is as common as 14 second skylines. If it didn't misfire at 7psi, and it does at 10psi, and you have new spark plugs, and you own an R33, you should look at the ecu. Don't use the old AFC. either get the original blue screen SAFC, or even cheaper, get the Jaycar Digital Fuel adjuster and hand controller kits and put them together. but the SAFC is less hassle. When I bought one about 3 years ago for the S14, it cost me $250 second hand. since there have been a few new ones introduced, the original blue screen SAFC would be worth even less. It'll cost you about $200 to get it tuned. installing it is like 6 wires and come with instructions. All this is if you don't want to spend about $1500 for a PFC or similar ecu. your problem is ecu or coils. probably ecu.

as expected they are all gone. I posted this here and on the RSLIBERTYCLUB forum. skylines got beat by the liberty.. this thread can be closed.