TTT

It was just a joke mate.. You don't have to justify your sparkly car to anyone.. We don't discriminate against your kind. you know..... we even have one of our members who has a toyota MR-S. He's cool even if he likes smoking mangina. post a link to your picture in the gallery here..

I'd rather take a bugeyed rex than that.. that is all!

Jebus man.. just make up your own mind. You don't see many 1982 Falcons at car shows either. get one of those.. Just incase it's not obvious to you... You want the GTR. it's obvious. everything anyone including yourself have said is that the GTST is newer, you know it's history, less maintenance etc.. and yet you keep going back to how the GTR is better in some way. oh der!! of course it's better. it's the top of the line in it's time. Just bite the bullet and buy it. it already has GTSS turbo's and good compression. all you need now is PFC, Injectors, PUMP, AFM, tune. then you'll see which car "feels" faster.

so much power...!!!

I would have thought a rechip would be higher on the list of next mods than a plenum. especially since you have a hi-flow turbo and fuel mods and nothing controlling how it all gets mixed. the stock plenum has been used by people making 300rwkw on the RB20 Search the NSW forum for user "Legend01" I think it is.. Also speak to user CEFFIE about re-chips. he has/had a similar turbo to you on his RB20 and programmed his own ecu. making 240rwkw and boost coming on ALOT earlier than what you are describing.. Your choice.. just think money would be better spent on tuning rather then "fully sick forward facing plenum bro" when the stocker is a good unit.

:laughing-smiley-014: How cool are you now that you have a working one.. how much faster is your car? a real question though.. is the sound any different?

autobahn used to sell an adapter..

I still think that it's an AFM problem it won't come up ont he diagnostics because it is working fine at the time of the diag test. Can you: 1.) Borrow a working AFM from a mate and test it out on yours for a few days? 2.) remove your AFM and clean it as per instructions you can find in this forum? the reason I think it's the AFM is due to these facts. *Happens after long drive (as in after a constant flow of steady air) *revs going from 0 - 1200rpm I'd be interested to know if you get a violent cut too. say after a long drive when it starts to play up, if you shift back a gear or so and give it a boot full.

IBJLIS

how about searching the Parts for sale section instead of asking someone you don't know to go to Japan to find you a pink blow job valve?

might be better to sell your bits off your wreck and get another gtst

Brush that mop on top young man!!!

Hi. did it come with a handbag just as pretty?

^^ you're not married ay?

You're right.. it feels f*king fantastic!!!

Don't pretend you don't miss me...

bro.. it makes the chicks wave at me.. they seem to only have use of their pinky finger though.. YBJLUS of my boost?

not interested but f*k that's a cool car.

he means Manifold. the piping from the block to the turbo. exrtactors is usually the term used in NA engines.. for the same part though.. the part that goes from the engine block to the rest of the exhaust.

Gibson Motorsport R31 Look it up to see how an RB20 (or 25 for that matter) intercooler should be piped.

well done.. another person saved from those horrible rb25's..

Probably because the installation is the easy part for both controllers. then adjusting... the electronic ones to adjust, you press buttons or turn dials to get the desired boost you want. most have a display on them that shows you what you are setting it to. the turbo tech is just a knob. you turn it, do a run and see what boost it makes, then turn it some more and dyno again.. repeat until you have the desired boost level.. so it takes a few goes to get it "adjusted" the the setting you want. that's why you got charged $50 extra.

first question is why do you want to do it? just to remove an extra 50cm of piping?

if everyone jumped off a bridge would you jump off too? does your car have a different blow off valve (bov) than the standard one? that is the usual problem of stalling when coming to a stop/low revs etc. to fix it, you need a plumback bov. if none of this makes sense, take a pic of your engine bacy and post it here..