TTT

Fine I'll stop. I won't say anything in reply to his stupid decisions that he decides to post about. bunch of f*king cry babies..

Get room you cute little monkeys you...

you won't have any gearbox problems unless you drive fully sic all the fully time. ther eare people with over 240rwkw with rb20 box still going strong.

*gets the tape measure out in preperation for the E-wang measuring contest about to begin*

shirt answer is YES. it will bolt on and be an upgrade. Long answer would invole you answering more questions which you won't know the answers to as you are not the workshop who took it apart and measured bits.

Before doing that, I'd get a larger diamter return hose for the bov from some place like clark rubber. plug it to the bov and the other end to the return outlet on the intake pipe. see if thats the restriction. if you still get it, try your atmo bov. if the atmo bov resolved the flutter issue, then a single GTR bov vented back has found it's limit. the only reason I say the return pipe is the issue I had with my S14... or any 200sx for that matter. you'll find that if a pod is fitted and they've raised the boost even to a mere 10 psi, at full boost gearshift, you will get a flutter. and it's because of the pissant return line which becomes a flat section as it goes across the motor. the new hose will cost you like $2 for a meter length. just get a cheap clear hose as a test.

*puts on his word spinning robe on* So Geoff according to your post, Auto skylines are for retards and those that are disabled?

LMAO at geoff - HEY!! there is no place for experience and facts here geoff.

:laughing-smiley-014:

193kw + 163kw = 356kw 356kw / 2 = 178 So let say that you have the average of the 2 and have about 180rwkw. f*king dyno's they shouldn't display power. they should display, A:F, boost, and a power and torque curve.. but never show a number.. there are thousands of these useless threads around.

don't the 4agze's have a 'by-pass' valve?

yeh man.. anything from ebay is a great idea. see if you can also find yourself an electronic supercharger. or a fuel magnitizer.

I see you changed your user id but not your dumbarsed attitude.

which also means more power but that's a different point. on one of my RB20's I bolted an RB25 turbo to, I had the usual mods except FMIC. with the exhaust and filter being free flowing, and no boost control, the stock car would boost to 11psi. (stock is 10) Once the RB25 turbo went on and I used a boost controller to bring it to 11 psi (I used the stock actuator instead of the rb20 one so it had 6psi stock), I put it on a dyno and it made 153rwkw. I think a stock R32 makes around 110rwkw. an RB25 with stock turbo at 10psi (if it isn't missing and spluttering like a shitbox) will have around the 170rwkw. an RB20 with stock turbo at stock 10psi but with intake and exhaust mods will have around 130rwkw.

when I read Rally, I assumed WRC.

the RB25 is 500cc larger in capacity. it can push out x amount more air so to speak. so people say that the max safe boost setting for a stock R33 gtst is about 10-12psi. and on a car that is 500cc smaller in capacity, it can handle more boost to put the same amount of strain on the turbo as it does on a lower boost setting when on the RB25. Also, the RB20 has lower compression than the RB25 which also means more PSI to bring the power/heat to the same levels. f*k that was a messy post.

on what engine? on an RB25.. yes.. it's too much. on a smaller rb20 it should be just about as much as you'd want to put through a ceramic exhaust wheeled turbo. all the pics you've posted have had 20V seca in the name so you could be putting this on a 4age in which case, I've seen people put 17+ through that turbo on those engines.

yes they use the same flange.. direct swap for an RB20 is 14.5 asking too much for what? the turbo? a car? $14.5K?

it's a RB25 turbo

someone please point out which "RALLY" car uses a bov.

:laughing-smiley-014: 4 pages and then 1 word. sums it up.. I say get the $5K cheaper Auto. drive it around. if you want manual, you could get it done for less than $5K easily.

I've always liked Roys car. TD06-20G sounds ok too doesn't it Roy? click signature..

LMAO at these threads. I'm not a mathamagician or an engineer or a science teacher or a rocket scientist as some people on here obviously are. so... in regular human terms. if you must have a pod - extend it "OUT" of the engine bay. if you don't care if you have a pod or not - use a stock air box and search these forums for "REV210"'s post about a solution to stop the intake pipe sucking closed. Street car - stock air box. try to improve the stock air box if you want. in the R32 GTST, the duct goes from behind the headlight in to the bottom half of the box. easy to mod. if you get a FMIC, there is plenty of room under the air box where the stock IC was to set up a massive intake to the box and all Legal. The R33 box where the duct goes in to the top is a little more difficult but I'm sure something could be made to improve the intake snorkel or perhaps another duct to the other side on the top of the box. seriously - the number of people on here using stock air box making ridiculous power is enough to never use a pod. LEGEND1 - RB20, 300+rwkw, stock RB20 air box. ABO BOB - over 250rwkw - stock R34 RB25 air box. MINES gtr - 600hp, r34 GTR stock air box with new ducting. some people say "My fmic pipes go where the stock air box is so I need a pod" modify the air box. Some guy on the Stagea section of this forum modified his stock box to fit around the fmic pipe. Apart from "it sounds sick wif da pod", what reason do you have for using it on a street car? I did my own testing of intake temps with a pod, pod with CAI, pod with heat shield and cai and stock air box and a digital temp probe, back in 2002 or 2003... Feel free to search for it as I had posted here somewhere way back then.

Describe this HTFU emoticon...

yeh thanks Grant.. NG0387 - it's obvious that you are young and will make your own mistakes/decisions. I'm assuming the 180sx you got was the one with the ca18det in the sale section of this forum? he was asking $7.5K. I'm hoping that you got at least $4K on top of his car for your R32 4 door. the other thing is, you had a 4 door R32 skyline. it's pretty much the "IN THING" in that crap they call drifting, which you want to do. You're car would have been so much better at it then a ca18 180sx with FMIC and a pod. The skyline has better brakes, more powerful engine, etc. If you come to a public forum and make posts about whatever you want to talk about, you are going to get peoples replies. if you don't like it, then that's too bad. everyone here is posting their own opinion/experience. You started here with "I want a 1000kw R34 GTR" and we know where that went. then you swapped your skyline for a ca18det 180sx? That just seems stupid to me. not to mention you calling a 180sx with pod and fmic a drift pig. I'm not about to baby what i think just so it doesn't hurt your feelings. Toughen the f*k up princess same goes for your husband.