TTT

doesn't that also mean timing problem if the gauge is like 0psi at idle. it is usually like 22mmhg at idle..

if you take the dump pipe off (5 bolts from memory) then you can inspect both the turbo exhaust wheel and the wastegate flap. bit of a pain in the buttocks to get to though. and if you have the stock dump pipe still, make sure you soak the bolts in wd40 the night before.. soak them well. then you should be able to get them off without cracking.. even if you got aftermarket dump, spray the bolts with wd40. Obvious note: do this while car is off and cold.

I didn't think that law applied to GT4

most policies will have no issues with mods if they are legal and LISTED ON THE POLICY.

there's a guy called ROY on these here forums.. he seems to have read a few internet articles on the RB20.. I'm sure he will be more than willing to post his favourite VID of it... I'll just get him for ye.. HEY ROY!!!

couple of things.. do this carefully. take the hose off the wastegate actuator. go for a careful drive. accelerate and see if you get boost. if you still don't, then I can only see 2 things. 1.) wastegate flap has come off the actuator and is just flapping around (basically stays open with the force of the exhaust gases) 2.) exhaust ceramic wheel is out of the office and having dirty ruff sex with the cat.

that's the first time I've seen to describe atmo venting bov..anyway, as said above... something is leaking. could be the bov. could be that the wastegate flap is flapping and therefore takes ages to build boost. easiest test is to remove the bov and block off the hole and hoses and go for a drive. if issue is still there, then the wastegate flap option would be a little more difficult to test/check.

installing is like 6 wires. and you can find the ECu pinout diagrams on here and the SAFC should come with it's own diagram of what each wire is or you can download that from the web as well. install is the easy bit. during my tuning, Uni group put my car on the dyno, then did a power run with no changes. took a look at the A:F details at what revs and made changes in the SAFC. basically leaned it out or richened as required. the SAFC I had (Blue screen) had tuning points at 500rpm intervals. so he takes a look at the dyno run readout, and adjusts more or less fuel at each 500rpm point. then runs it again and makes any other adjustments needed. it took 9 power runs if i recall. so.. without a laptop that is mapping your a:f mixture via your expensive wide band o2 sensor, while you are doing these wot runs on the road somewhere, I think it's safer to let someone do it for you on a dyno. or if you insist on doing it yourself, you can hire out a dyno for an hour I think. that would cost you about $110 or around that and you use their o2 sensor, dyno, computer readout etc.

Unigroup charge $150 from what I remember. as long as you turn up with it already installed and cleared, and they just have to tune it. if you don't have a wide band sensor and a road that you can do a 4th gear red line run, then no, you can't tune it yourself. I'm surprised that someone with cash for an R34 doesn't have the cash for an SAFC tune. hope you didn't skimp on insurance by getting a $40 club lock instead.

hahahaha.. 3 replies, all way off one another.. just ge the test done. if each cylinder results are close to one another, then don't worry. if a couple is more than like 10% lower than the rest, then worry

I'd say it popped because you ran double the boost with no tuning.

fark.. how many of you clowns have horse blinkers on? the fastest stock turbo'd AUTO soarer in aus runs 12.3 using stock turbo's as stated, darg radials, MV auto's stage one shift kit (no stall converter). making 230rwkw. let's a GTST (r32 or R33) do the same... A stock AUTO TT soarer weighs 1560kg how is that 600kg heavier than a skyline as some knob put it? Only problem with the soarer is the fact that it is useless. it's a 2 door that has piss all back seat room. piss all boot room. and yet is a massive car. Chaser is where it's at.

^^^ fully? r yoo being siriyis? omagod!

VDO

how much more of a moron does this guy want to look like? "crushing" the stock bov is an old/crude way of allowing it to "HOLD" more boost. Mitsubishi 4G owners have been doing this for years. and that is because they have the same bov.. have you noticed that your bov has 3 diamonds on it? it didn't "increase" the boost... what you are feeling in your well calibrated arse dyno is how your car would have driven when brand spankers. Another way to do the same thing is to remove the bov completely. no bov means no leak. another way again is to take off the stock bov and seal the "small" hole on the underside of it. NOW.. it's been one day, and you should have installed yyour boost gauge. why don't you come back on here now and "LIE" to us about how your car is making 14psi uleh and that everything else is stock and that your "NISMO" mate was right. then we can point out that 14psi on stock r33 would not work because of this that and the other. I'm going to go get something to eat so I can eat while I laugh at you.. nice first thread.

actual respose when calling.. "KKKHHHHHHHHH... this number is not in use.. GOOD-BYE" Another case closed.

^^^ so are Pulsar N14, N15, VN bogan door..

^^^ are you the wanker that didn't do the oil line mod then posted pictures of your scored bearings meaning not enough oil?

it will sound louder and therefore sound faster. but it won't be.

Crank Angle Sensor

put new COPPER spark plugs in it. search for the part number on this forum. regap them to 0.8mm

Black. Same goes for your rims.. black.

what heat range plugs? what gaps? coil packs new? you haven't mentioned anything about the AFM.

did you get a "receipt" from the workshop for the RB rebuild? as if you'd go on the word of the seller that it has a "built" engine

If you can see 11psi, then "if" there is a leak, it is after the turbo. so being an RB, most probably a gasket leak at the turbo manifold. My guess from this side of the monitor is that you have a bolt missing from the turbo to the manifold. you might be able to just tighten replace and tighten it and it will go for a while longer. "IF" there is a manifold leak, and you leave it, it will get worse as the whole in the gasket gets bigger. eventually, it will start to sound like a lawn mower when idling. "OR" you are most likely on crack and it's just the sound of an RB20 with exposed pod filter.