TTT

damn out bidding mofos...

I am willing to drive J-boys car down from QLD to sydney for you if you pay for my return flight home and it's over a weekend.. definitely sounds better than the $25K unknown internal Vspec..

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=175825

Toyota Corolla Seca SX 1989 212,000kms 100kw small port 4A-GE Red manual Hatch 3rd owner Jan 2008 rego Will come with RWC Modifications: = None Overall Condition: Very good Other Info: Air conditioned, power steering, central locking. Perfect run around car. Location:Brisbane PRICE - $3900 Contact: PM, or in this thread or via mobile. 0414 82 32 77 Pics: http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d...sx/DSC01434.jpg http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d...sx/DSC01433.jpg http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d...sx/DSC01431.jpg

hope you are getting for really cheap.. like low teens. soon enough you'll be spending another something-teen 'K' to bring it up to scratch.

the pinky thing is stupid.. it should have been making them out as wankers rather than little knobs.. you know. do the wank wank hand gesture rather than "another cup of yes please" even before all the chops and remakes of the video, it was funny to start with. how funny is the face ont he ford driver as he lights it up.. in other news.. LOL

what happens when you turn the key? does it crank but not start? does it just tick? do the headlights and radio work? when accessories are on (reds on the dash) and you turn the key once more to start, do they dim or stay on? have you tried starting in Neutral instead of park?

:laughing-smiley-014: yeh.. just like rb20e powered skylines are essentially like a Ztune R34 gtr... but different right?

bull shit.. it's lebs. end of story. I moved from sydney and will only return to visit family and friends. don't need that shit. I'm also from the middle east. The land of goat sphincter rings for that matter. as if being of middle eastern appearance isn't bad enough, we now have constant "muslim extremists" to add to the list. It's farking embarasing to be in some small way associated with these scum. I can't help being where I am from or being the religion I am.. For some stupid reason, I still get dumarses go "how come you muslims do terrorist attacks? is it in your god book thingy?" sydney is too far down the hole to be cleaned up. I say move. best modification to my life so far.

there is no difference between series 1 or 2 for the S14 in the engine. if you are making 203rwkw in an S14, you do not have a stock turbo. even S15's struggle to make 200rwkw with pfc and supporting mods and something like 17psi of boost. my series 1 made 175rwkw with 15psi boost and safc, fmic, pump, exhaust, pod etc.. same dyno as you. same tuner as you.

jay car

I see a knob-gobbler

"DON'T YOU HATE PAAANTS?"

keep arguing... It's teh funny for the rest of us.. Keegs - I think he also said something about yo mumma...

underbonnet swimin pool

what AFM are you using? with that sort of turbo, the stock AFM will be no use to you as it does not hae the resolution at much power over 200rwkw.

have you tried pushing it off a cliff?

bump.. drive.com blog.. http://blogs.drive.com.au/2007/06/rta_spee...ivers_have.html how many of you have already had a go...

it came with an SR20det? wouldn't it have been better rebuilding it?

if you take the stock bov off (or any bov for that matter) and jam your thumb up it's arse (so to speak), you will be able to push the piston in by hand. now. with aftrmarket bovs, you can adjust the piston tension. by making it tighter, you make it harder to open. but the stock bov just sits shut against the hole. not much is required to make it open. when on the car, you have air under the bov, and air in the vacuum line on top. So. at idle, your boost gause will show a vacuum reading or some sort. that means that the bov will be shut as it has x amount of air pressure (vacuum) in the intercooler pipe under it and the vacuum line above it.. so no pressure means it stays shut. get on boost and all this pressure builds up under it and tries to open it.. but the vacuum lne on top is also providing the same amount of pressure as it is seeing boost from the the manifold. so the bov stays shut. you get off the gas and step on the clutch to chane gears and if you notice your boost gauge, it shoots waaaay down the vaccum side. at this very moment, all the boost your turbo was creating is still pressured up in the intercooler pipes. But the vacuum line above the bov is seeing vacuum (as per your boost gauge) from the manifold so it is trying to SUCK the piston up. this vacuum line sucking and intercooler pipes filled with pressure opens the bov and pssh comes out. NOW. If you have disconnected the vacuum line on top.. what happens? you accelerate, create boost, boost builds up in the intercooler pipes, pushes against the bov piston. since there is no line above it showing the same boost, it "IS ABLE" to push the bov open. and 5psi is enough to push it open and there is your problem. and end of my essay solution. remove blitz blow job valve. sell to some ricer. fit stock bov and all lines and enjoy a problem free car.

so you still have the stock bov on at the same time as the blitz one? and you are just disconnecting the vacuum line to the stock bov? that's your problem. it will open up.. you have to remove the stock bov and block off the vacuum line, and the other 2 holes for bov and bov return. then connect vaccum line to blitz show off valve and it will boost and everyone will look at you and go "sik mate sik"

xRHETTx - yes please scan. I'll search SK's doco.. It's not going in to a skyline so ecu pinout will not help.. thanks

so the injector duty supply is displayed on the controller? I haven't put it in yet.. it is holding down my coffee table at the moment..

I've got the controller but not the instruction manual on how to tune/adjust it. I've got the controller for it too. If someone has a soft copy and could post it or email it to me it would be great. thanks

Always try the cheap things first. any increase in flow (exhaust, intake, boost) will bring out spark issues. new copper plugs are cheap @ $4 each. gap to 0.8 as above. I also taped my coil packs up with electrical tape ($7 for a roll of good quality 3M branded stuff) I pulled each coil pack out and started down the bottom (the part that goes OVER the spark plug). I went up, then down, then up again and ended it up the top (at the very top of the actual COIL) As I wrapped it with the tape, each turn went over half the last turn so it was a tight, thick layer. this completely removed the misfire. Mine was on an 1989 R32. so it was 18 years old with factory coils. since the above will only set you back like $30, if it doesn't help (99% of the time it will), you have only spent $30 and besides, you now have brand new spark plugs and sealed coils for when you do find the problem. New pump and filter are always a good idea on a modified skyline. if you are not looking to change the turbo, then a WALBRO pump for like $170 is enough. People say they don't flow well under high pressure but with your stock turbo in an RB20 you'll get like 170rwkw if you're lucky and about 200rwkw on an RB25... the pump can handle that. also get a new fuel filter to make sure. Not sure about the off the shelf injector cleaners.. nor do I know how much it costs to get them taken out, ultrasonically cleaned and flow measured. I'd say more than the above costs though.. If these do not fix the misfire issue, then it will be R&R issues that R33 owners have.. search for threads by user WOGSRUS... he's had 1 or 2 misfire threads..