TTT

Deren - Where in Brisbane are you? I'm by no means mechanically minded, but if you ever need a spare set of hands to help do anything, I'll be happy to help out.. I just want to see this damn thing in person. Also, as you are a mechanic, I'd be happy to pay you to do any mechanical work that I might need rather than jo blo.. I moved up to Brisbane about a year ago and don't really have any mechanics I know like I did in Sydney so someone with your attention to detail would be beneficial to know. PM me if you like. Cheers. T

Look where the gauges are on the second picture.. then you'll put the pieces together as to why RB20

I can't understand why people still insist on getting pod filters and bovs on road going cars. there are people on this forum with over 250rwkw using stock intake and bov. possibly higher.. you're just asking for trouble.. it's true they don't bother going over old bombs.. "GENERALISATION" shows that those are not the cars that hang out together and do "HOON" type activities.. it's just how it is.. Build a bridge..

rb25det box is the only one that will 'handle' 300rwkw for any decent length of time. the 6 speed is ok for the likes of 220-230rwkw. the 5 speed is probably a little better at that level. anything over 250rwkw and you'd be silly to spend your money on anything execpt rb25 box.. and no, the conversion is not simple and straight forward for the rb box.

Xizor - AFM. take it off, clean it with electronic contact cleaner. You can also use degreaser. when I did mine, I only had degreaser. so I took it off the car, degreased it, washed it out with slow running water. Got the wifes hair dryer and dried it out completely. put it back on the car and it was fine. Some people also have a problem where the internal connectors have broken off and need to be re-soldered. that is also easy. but try the cleaning first. if you bother to go get electrical contact cleaner, you don't have to wash it out and it dries by itself. you can probably find it at places like Tandy, dick smiths or Jaycar.

bump - stock rb25det boost solenoid anyone?

has anyone bothered to do the calculations on what a 2inch, 3inch, 4 inch system will actually flow? you'll find that even a mandrel bent 2.5 inch system has enough capacity to flow like 400hp. I don't remember the calculations exactly.. I think Sydney Kid had posted them at one point.

surely someone must have a stock boost controller solenoid that they are not using. and ofcourse they would want to "GIVE" it to me for free.. anyone? Don't all jump in at once now..

Geoff - where in Brisbane? Consider a part trade? corolla + cash.

I'm a Western Oriented Gentlemen as well

don't give me that "I'm the princess of the world" rubbish..

double h and double a. tisk tisk moon pie!

Both are crappy Mexicans to the superior Brisbane. 1 hour from surfers 1 hour from sunshine coast. all roads are new. all roads are wide. plenty of hills circuits. easy going cops. easy laws on modifications. low "uleh" factor. wimmins.. come on... tanned/blonde/blue is what aus is about and this is where they are made.. clubs.. I'm sure there are some.. not my scene. pubs/bars/latte sipping fairy places a plenty.

I fink wat our edumecated friend up here waz tryin to say is This is by far the worst grammar and punctuation I have see in a long time. I can barley understand what this idiot is saying. It's no wonder you were pulled over. I bet the police assumed you were another uneducated moron driving around. They should have fined you more, just for your superior efforts in remaining to type like a jackass. [edit] I apologise for this sounding abusive, but it just irritates the crap out of me when someone writes a sentence this long with what Iwould call "SMS lingo".

cleaned your afm?

for $900, you can't go past a hiflow from slide. as ceffie has proven. he has 240rwkw with injectors, pump and remap ecu. plus usual things like intercooler, exhaust, boost controller.

good little article on Autospeed. http://autospeed.com/cms/A_108651/article.html simple explanation of certain terms used when talking about turbo's and wastegates etc..

rb20 stock turbo has a '16v' on the front housing. RB25 stock turbo has 42v1 or 45v1 or similar. if either have been hiflow, the rear wheel will be made of metal. if stock, it will be ceramic.

yes walbro pump is fine. it goes in the tank in the boot. under the carpet towards the right hand side of the spare wheel it should be pretty easy to swap. you might need to modify the craddle a little to hold the new pump in if it is slightly different in size. like I said before. replace fuel filter and as well. if you got more cash, clean injectors.

new plugs = $4 each at most. electrical tape to tape up coils cost $5 alot cheaper than a dyno run and re-re-chip. AND, if you are going to get it re-done on the dyno, you'd want brand new plugs in there anyway, adn to make sure your coil packs aren't arcing (taped up) it's cheap but it works. the last r32 I bought would missfire (make popcorn or what ever you want to call it) high in the revs. I taped up the coil packs. Start at the bottom (right at the tip of the rubber bit). I did tight layers, each bit of tape going half over the previous. I went up the coil pack, down and back up. so 3 layers. right up to the top of the actual pack. put them back in, went for a drive.. much better.. only slight missfire right up in the rev range. got new plugs gapped to 0.8mm put them in. missfire completely gone.. hit rev limit instead For $30 and 1 hour of your time, it's well worth trying before going to a workshop for dyno and re-chip.

r32's don't have R&R. if your afr is hitting 16:1, it is extremely lean and obviously not enough fuel is going through. they are right. a new fuel pump will probably solve the issue. cheap option is a WALBRO 255L/h pump (yes people will say it doesn't flow enoug blah blah blah) but it flows plenty for the 200rwkw you want to make.. it will cost about $200 - $250 next price range is a used GTR fuel pump price will be about $250 or more. then there are the more expensive BOSCH pump range. then the even more expensive NIZMO range. Don't worry too much about regulator.. if you must, NIZMO makes a direct bolt on replacement which is under $200 I think.. Might also be a good idea to replace fuel filter ($30 or so) and get your injectors ultrasonicly cleaned (not sure on price) to get the 180+rwkw you will need some sort of tunable ecu or piggy back. SAFC will set you back about $250 and can bent the afr enough to give you some gains. a re-chip is even better. to give you an idea. way back when I had my first r32. i had... rb25 turbo 11psi gtr fuel pump side mount arc intercooler 3 inch exhaust from turbo back. Trust panel filter in stock air box. no ecu tuning. it made 155rwkw.

coolant temp sensor? it would explain the cold start issue. it may also explain it running really rich when in closed loop cycle rev range (up to 4000rpm or so) what you mean oopps.. what did you realise?

M I D L I F E C R I S I S edit bit: What ever happened to the Laser?

I'm sick of seeing people give stupid advice like CAI or box is waste of time etc. what is a waste of time is a pod filter. I've pinched this pic from the NSW section, hope the owner doesn't mind. this is an RB21. note stock airbox, stock plenum. also note dyno figure. there is no need for a pod

interested in any part trades?