TTT

I think it’s odd that no-one has picked up that this is an R34 gtt. 10 psi on an R34 gtt with no aftermarket management has it in R&R mode. How could you expect anything but worse at 13psi? There is no harm in doing your coil packs, but don’t expect them to fix this issue you have. You need management.

dude.. you either bought the biggest dud car, or you make mountains out of mole hills.

Yeh.. I used to have one too B-man. Looked a little like this..

Make sure you understand boost first. Your engine burns fuel and air and send it out the exhaust manifold which flows past the turbine which it spins along the way. Which in turn spins the compressor wheel which sucks in the air. And the whole process flows through. Now, you get a larger exhaust, the gases coming from your engine has more room and can flow more, and there is less back pressure at the exhaust wheel of your turbo, which means it spins more, which in turn spins the compressor wheel, which sucks in more air to the engine. That is the increase in boost pressure. No factory set up measures the boost pressure at the turbo. It is always measured AFTER the throttle body. So with the intercooler in the way, your turbo might actually be spinning up 12psi of pressure but the intercooler is a restriction and by the time it gets to the engine, it is only 10psi worth. All the factory restrictions like the back pressure caused by stock dump pipe etc, and the restriction in the intercooler, or the stock air filter maybe.. Once these are freed up, you will see a higher pressure amount. Is there a difference between 10psi via a boost controller or via the free flowing exhaust? NO. Is there a power difference? you bet there is. Do a search for “ BOOST+SYDNEYKID” from any date. He had a really good explanation of boost and so on. Unless he sees this and posts it here himself.

I wasn’t going to say anything but I keep seeing it bumped up, and I keep seeing your constant lies. 1.) The car does not weigh 800kg. it weighs 960kg DRY. 2.) It is not restrictive from factory.. much like the highly tuned Honda engines in the type r or s2000, it is hard to make much more power than stock with these engines by bolting on exhaust etc. Definitely not another 25kw which you claim/guess by adding: - K&N panel filter - 2 ¼” Extractors - Custom 2” mandrel bent exhaust - Hiflow 3 way CAT - 4” Cannon 3.) Those wheels are not GENUINE SX wheels. They are genuine TWIN CAM wheels. There was no SX model in that shape. There was a CS which that car is, and the Twin cam which had the 88kw motor. I’ll give you the fact that it looks to be a nice example. It has been re-sprayed obviously and the paint is nice. The conversion is neat and looks to be done well. I hope the gearbox was also in the conversion. AND, the price is very appropriate and would easily sell for $6K. But Please, do not go around claiming 145kw and it beats this and that. You make no mention of any sort of aftermarket management which is where ANY power would come from. All it has is breathing mods which will give it more sound a little more power. You’d be lucky to have 130kw at the engine. That’s 196hp or 200PS. No chance that engine with those mods has that power. The car will no doubt sell, and if it isn’t already on toymods.org… you should head over there.

I’ve had 2 rb20’s, they both do it. Ask around and you will find that they ALL do it. Something about the cold start and how rich it runs till warm or something. Doesn’t seem like there is a fix for it. Best way to describe the problem is like something is holding it back then just releases it. All around the 3000rpm range while engine is cold. I got around it by driving and shifting at 2500rpm till temp gauge is half way.. Which ends up being about 5 minutes of driving.

google images searched for rb20det went through a couple of pages.

Brock did drive a GTR. This one..

R32 GTS4 has factory 4.4:1 diff ratio’s. It needs it to move it’s 1450kg with an RB20 powering it.

T3 flanged Hitachi built, nissan branded turbo. flows about 280-300hp or so I think.

Andy, you ask a lot of the same questions. I have some for you. 1.) when you are driving hard and you are boosting, what sound do you hear in between gear changes? 2.) you have HKS SSQV bov yes? Like this one.. See on the back where there is a brass fitting.. just below that, right in the middle of the bov, there is an adjustment screw. If you adjust that ANTI CLOCKWISE (turning it to the left), it will LOOSEN the spring inside. This will make it easier for the bov to open when you change gears or take your foot off the pedal. So you should be able to hear it more. BUT, if you loosen it too much, the car might STALL as it is leaking too much air. ALSO, you will NOT hear the noise by just revving your engine in neutral. Because it does not make boost in neutral. Only when you are driving.

LOL.. I drove my 89 r32 from Sydney to Brisbane. Why you would think it’s going to break I can’t understand.. If anything, it gets treated better on long freeway driving. It gets to sit at 110km/h, no load, just cruising.. Instead of boost, off boost, boost, off boost., change gears, brake, accelerate, brake, sit at light’s and heat up in traffic. Etc.. At 110km/h and 3000 rpm (roughly), it gets fresh clean air, perfect revs for economy, no load etc. And Canberra is what, 280km from Sydney?

Well that about explains your mentality and I apollogise for thinking you wanted help with performance. How did you come to that conclusion? Do you have a flow bench at home? What were your results from the flow bench? You say it’s restrictive but where is your proof? By looking at it? Forget I said anything. I’m sure someone will be more than happy to take your money to make you up a “BOX” for your sound making pod. Oh, while you’re at it, why not, replace that factory intake pipe from pod filter to turbo… Have you seen it? It’s got kinks and it’s bent and made of rubber. I put it on my imaginary flow bench and it was really restrictive. Make sure you get it made out of titanium too. It will make your pod sound even better and it will reduce weight as your wallet will be much lighter. These are definitely restrictions in your 170rwkw rb20.

Brendan.. I can't recal. I asked my mate and he doesn't remember either. he said he checked at one point but they were pretty scrathed up from rallying so no visible markings to brand.. sorry

AHYES!!.. Parking was fun in that car.. I have that car to thank for these massive guns (brings each arm up to kiss bicep) It’s been like that since my mate bought it from the rally team. Are the log books still with it? It had a little booklet which showed the dates it raced and where.. etc… Damn good brakes for car that weight. I had it serviced at MRT once where they also swapped the turbo for me and Brett Middleton took it for a drive with me in the passenger seat back when they were on the other side of the bridge.. I was terrified. He would brake so late that I thought we were going to die.. Was just a walk in the park for him.. Scary.. scary stuff. Those ones in there are not comfortable but they are extremely light. I’d consider getting them redone instead of changing them. My bad.. when I got the car, it had the 2 front seats and the harnesses going to the rear strut brace.. And that is it. I went and got carpet, rear seats and dodgied up the harness to the floor. Not sure how it will take corners with a locked diff.. It was good on redline launches though.. LOL Man you got a good deal..

LOL… few reasons. 1.) I’ve been here too long and see the same questions over and over and over. 2.) I’m sick of people asking for advice then not taking it when given and asking the question in another way. 3.) I’m just an angry old man who doesn’t have a tolerance for people who don’t listen and who don’t search. Next we’ll see some thread asking how much power the stock air box can handle before a pod is required.. And guess what, that’s been answered/proven by many people on here from their own experience and cars. Almost everyone has a pod filter. Then almost everyone one of them have asked how to or where to get a heat shield for it. Or how to get a box made for it. I don’t understand how these people’s brains function. A 7.3 second search on here for “AIR+BOX” or “POD+FILTER+BOX” will get a bunch of threads. It will have people posting their results or experience on them. It will show you what power people are making with stock air boxes. Any skyline owner.. especially the ones on this forum will know of the MINES R34 GTR. Everyone of them would have seen the clip of “drift king” and others driving it around a track and how they are amazed at the power etc.. Everyone will see that the car still utilises the STOCK GTR AIR BOX. Yes it has a MINES intake snorkel to it but it is still a STOCK AIR BOX with a hi flow panel filter and aftermarket intake snorkel. Everyone knows that car makes over 500hp. So I have to question what makes people “THINK” they need to use a pod filter on their skylines with power levels of “MOSTLY” under 200rwkw. Apart from making more sound, they do NOTHING for performance at these sort of power levels. Car has stock air box, you buy a $80 panel filter and $10 worth of PVC piping and spend 1 hour cutting holes and putting it all together to make a duct to the air box. Instead people spend $100 on a pod, $50 for an adapter to mount it to the AFM, then get sound and heat soaked intake air. Then they go spend god knows how much for a patrician or air box made of carbon fibre or aluminium or white gold or something.. And STILL get worse results than the stock setup. I was hoping that my SARCASTIC reply would make the person understand that it’s obvious what would yield the better result and cost less without calling him/her names. That’s my cry for the day over. Have a nice night.

Now call me crazy.. but I’ve got a wicked idea.. It’s just out of this world and I doubt anyone would ever think of it.. Here’s what you do.. You go and buy… A STOCK R32 GTST AIR BOX. Drill a 3 inch hole to the bottom of it. Drill a 3 inch hole in the metal frame under the air box. Buy some 3 inch PVC plumbing pipe from Bunnings and a few 45 and 90 degree bends and then put it all together so that it directs air from your front bar where intake for the stock intercooler used to sit, up to the fully sealed air box. Put in a hi flow K&N panel filter. How crazy is that idea? Man I’m clever.. No-one would ever think to use the stock air box with a new air feed to it.

EJ20T conversion in to the wagon. Then you have the space you want and the power you want.

The adjuster on the Apexi bov is for the PITCH of sound it makes.. The size of the hole will ALTER the PITCH of the sound it makes. It doesn’t hold boost in or have anything to do with boost. Just the sound it makes on release.. Small hole means slightly less sound and it a little more high pitched. Larger holes make more sound and not as high pitched. Stock GTR bovs are on the drivers side of the car. Follow piping from intercooler up to engine bay on drivers side.

I saw on an SR20 conversion in to an R32 or maybe a cefiro.. The person (I think it was Meggala from these forums from many years ago) had a bov welded to the intercooler pipe in a position where he then had a stainless steel pipe (same diameter as the bov venting side) going from the bov directly across to his stainless intake pipe. That’s extreme but it would definitely flow enough back to the intake..

I hope this guy sorts it out for you. If not.. I live near Kedron. I’m happy to go hurt someone for scamming someone else.. If you don’t want to inflict pain, I can have some people at my work go pay him a visit.. They drive commodores with disco lights on top, and they wear nice blue uniforms. Let me know..

capri’s have a 1.6 engine. Same as the aus delivered 1.6TX3 turbo and mazda 323 turbo of the late 80’s (86+) and early 90’s… the bubble shape. Next option up is the 1.8L from the aus tx3. Or from the Familia GTX BEST option is the BP18T from the Familia GTR. It is a rally prepped engine. Stock forged pistons and rods. Large turbo… Usually the familia gtr’s can put out about 200awkw with boost, cooler, exhaust and management from that turbo, injectors, pump and After market management. All this said, the problem with the capri is the body flex. You can almost do it by hand…. If you were say Ronnie Coleman…

On my next skyline I want to play around a little with this. Upon pulling apart the afm on my rb20 to re-solder it, I found it’s nothing more than a circuit board with wires and sensors etc. And offcourse the hot wire below. I plan to get a spare afm and cut it apart and make something up so that I can just have the hot wire sensor sit in the intercooler piping. Not sure how I will do this just yet as I don’t have a spare lying around. But I’ll give it a go eventually. I don’t want to actually have the hole AFM unit… just the element and circuitry above it.

pardon my ignorance… but of you are running rb20 base maps, then shouldn’t your formula be using the rb20 standard injectors? As in 270cc… I was under the impression rb20 was 270cc and rb25 was 370cc

Some questions for you. 1.) How much power does your car make? 2.) How much boost pressure do you run? 3.) What turbo? 4.) How big (in diameter) are your intercooler pipes? 5.) What do you seen if you take the plum back hose off and free rev the engine from the engine bay? Does the bov open and vent? (Yes it will probably stall after, but it’s just a test to see if the bov is opening.) 6.) Have you tried to run a new length of hose Straight from bov to turbo intake pipe? The reason for all the questions is this. Extra boost/airflow from bigger turbo will require more air to be vented on gear changes (obviously) Bigger diameter intercooler piping and intercooler means even more air is in there. Back on my S14, when I fitted a FMIC, the stock bov would not flow enough at 1 bar boost. I would get the well known sr20 flutter on gear changes or back off from accelerator. I then decided to test a GFB plum back bov. Same result. Odd…. So then I vented the gfb to atom…. No more flutter. Then I had a look at the bov plum back return line. It goes in to a small flat section over the front of the engine block. No way it will flow enough.. Got new hose from front of bov all the way across to intake pipe. Problem solved. I suggest you try that telstar tx5 radiator pipe size to go from bov directly to the intake pipe where the plum back pipe fits.. It won’t cost you much.. just some time.. Cheers