TTT

I’m surprised no-one has mentioned it yet. What if you’re car gets stolen? Is your $2K insurance worth it then? Yeh… singing a different tune now aren’t you? How can you come on here and complain that you might not be covered for a “NON ROAD WORTHY CAR” Reminds me of the cases where thieves who get caught by the owner during a burglary and cope a well good hiding as they should, then take the home owner to court for the damages. You do an illegal thing, knowingly break the law, then complain when you are denied insurance? They say at the beginning “we cover you for unlimited modifications as long as they are legal and road worthy” AND, if you bother to read your 80 page “Product Disclosure Statement” as they say at the end of every phone conversation, tv or radio advert etc.., you’d know this. I for one only get the insurance on all my belongings (, house, contents, car life, wife…..) purely for the theft factor. I don’t plan to get in to an accident. I am in charge of a situation when I am behind the wheel, and I am in charge of the situation where I could get in to a bingle where I am at fault. And I will not get myself in to that position. But theft… You can do everything you want. Alarm, immobiliser, club lock, barricade lock, dogs, bees, dog’s with bees in their mouths and when they bark they shout bees at the thief.. you could even be there yourself.. but they can and will still take your car. Tow truck, weapons etc.. they use what they want to take it from you. THEN, your $2K insurance premium and close to $1600 theft excess all of a sudden looks great compared to the $15K you’d lose if you have 3rd party only. Don’t be stupid about this. Accidents can be avoided.. but theft can’t. Believe me, $15K loss (in my case…. for you with an R34 gtt, I’d assume a lot more) is very hard to get back with regular living costs. You think about how much time it is going to take for you to make $30K of pure spare savings to buy another R34. If you earn $60K, live at home, pay nothing in terms of bills or food and don’t go out for a year, have your travel to and from work paid for, clothes paid for…. You might save $30K in a year.. But lets admit it.. unless you are very lucky, that ain’t going to happen. I say re-think your insurance from another view..

You’ve got to be kidding me.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=130349 I went to the effort of giving you shed loads of info with pics etc and you start a new thread on this.? What an ungrateful sh*t. Add you to the list of people I won’t bother replying to.. Pfft.. Someone make me a mod.. I got some banning to do..

kind of a band aid solution. see if you close it up so much that it flutters, that means tha air is going back through the afm and it measures it twice.. it doesn't only measure one way... it just measures air going past it in any direction. so still dumps more fuel. so you MIGHT still have stalling issues. I say stick with the stock bov to the point where you get flutter using stock plumback bov. at that point, upgrade to Stock twin gtr bovs. they seem to have no problems at about 650rwkw if you have more than that.. well.. I have no answer.

idiot.. Of course it can..

The guy who bought it off me blew the engine up a month later (THAT engine was the one that was raced and had been rebuilt every 10,000kms before I got it. (which was at 37,000kms) And yes the meter would have been wound back to before first rebuild.. Anyway, the guy who bought it and blew it up then went and got a stock motor for it and exchanged the one he broke as part of the deal.. Clown All those quality rods, valves, pistons, etc all gone to the wreckers. Unless the next owner after him rebuilt the engine now in it with goodies, I’d say you have a stocker there.

Mate the last 3 things you have there is where I would start. When was the plugs last changed? When were the AFM’s last cleaned? Here is a similar problem I had and what I tried… http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...&hl=misfire post 5

That’s very good mate. But most R32’s are 13-17 years old. Most R33’s are 13-9 years old. The coil packs are equally old. If not already done, the most common mod people to is exhaust, filter, and 2-3 psi more boost. This almost ALWAYS causes misfire and spark break down issues. And instead of spending $600 odd dollars to buy Splitfire Coils, people go buy one range cooler and 0.8mm gapped plugs for $24 and $5 roll of electrical tape and do a cheap fix. If you think that they are loosing power from this then look at it this way. They have 2 ways of resolving the misfire issues. 1.) go back to stock boost and no mods so they can run 1.1mm gapped plugs and 5 heat range. 2.) Buy new coils packs for $600 odd dollars to get around the misfire problem when increasing boost and power. Option one is crap and defeats the purpose of having a turbo charged skyline,. Option 2 is stupidly over priced for 99% of people with skylines. So when “I” keep repeating myself on every single misfire thread to go change the plugs to NGK BPR6ES-8 plugs and spend half an hour to tape up the coil packs, I am doing so with the knowledge that this will fix the misfire problem 99% of the time and cost the person $30 which is the same as about quarter tank of fuel these days. Now – Please tell me how much power is lost by going from 1.1mm gap and heat range 5 to 0.8mm gap and 6 heat range? Does it even register on the dyno? If someone like BU5TER came on here with a misfire problem do you really think that I’d suggest the same $30 solution? I wouldn’t know what to suggest. He’s put 10’s of thousands of dollars in to that car/engine package. I’m sure that his spark/fuel/air setup is just right. But like I said, a MASSIVE majority of skyline owners are in MILDLY modified skylines. And the smaller gap and tapped coil packs fixes the issue. All you’ve done is come here and blabbed your mouth about why it’s the wrong thing to do.. How about now posting your solution to the common misfire problem when boost is increased on these RB engines?

1.) Blow Off Valves “DO NOT” make any kind of fluttering noises. Get that out of your head right now. All they do is make a single release sound. Different bovs make different sounds but they are always a single release sound. Psshhh of some sort. The HKS sequential and super sequential bovs also make a single release sound. The older style HKS bovs called HKS SQV (SeQuential Valve) looks like this.. It makes a regular bov pssshhh type sound. Notice the 2 vacuum nipples? It needs this because it has 2 chambers in it. It actually has 2 valves. HKS use this to prevent leaks under massive boost pressure. That is where the “sequential” term comes in. The newer HKS bov called the SSQV (Super SeQuential Valve) looks like this.. This also has twin chambers and twin vacuum nipples. This bov is known for it’s high pitched sound. Instead of a regular psshhh sound, it lets out a high pitched “squeek” that is the best way I can describe it. The spring tension on the valve that opens and closes can be adjusted. So if it’s too tight, when driving around, it will not vent and your car will make a fluttering sound.. it is “CAUSED” by the bov being too tight and not opening…. But the sound it not coming out of the bov.. the bov does not make a fluttering sound.. it does cause it though.. it causes it because it is not doing it’s job of opening so the air that would have escaped it, is not trying to escape from the air filter where it came in causing the fluttering sound as it pushes back through.. Kinda like the sound you get with old water pipes when you turn the tap on high then shut it quickly.. you get that tap tap tap sound from the pipes as it all backs up. Apexi also make a twin chamber bov.. looks like this.. See the 2 nipples again. The red thing with the holes can be twisted to get different pitch and loudness of sound on gear changes. Greddy also make twin chamber bovs.. So wether it’s plumbed back or vent to atmosphere, it can still cause a fluttering sound depending on how tight the spring tension is. Bovs and legalities change from state to state. In nsw, atom venting bovs are illegal. Full stop. People have even been defected for aftermarket plumb back ones… depends what mood the officer is in I guess.

dude he already got a car.. LOL It does need software. it needs to be tuned on a laptop. I "DID" have a floppy disk of the software back when I owned it but it's long gone. but those haltech's are upgradable by software version so any place that has laptop software and correct cable for the laptop "SHOULD" be able to do the work. I only know one haltech guy and it is "Adrian Vos" (known for the VOS chip for the liberty RS turbos). he can be found on the libertyrs forums.. http://www.rslibertyclub.org/forums/index.php he is on there as "adrianvos" he might be able to point you in the right direction or mayb even plug in and have a look. you need to become a member of the forum or I can pass on your email address to him.. yes that knob is a air/fuel adjuster thingy.. not sure if it works.. it was supposed to be for rally times.. depending on what altitude they were at or something.. they could just adjust it. that car has 2 pumps. one is active as per usual and the other is via a switch somewhere on the right hand side.. kinda under the indicator stalk on the right, on the dash there.. Does it still have that cut off key down below next to the brake bias? it needed a red key like one of those safety battery cut off things that race cars MUST have. Let me know if I can help

first part is right second part is also right but you are thinking wrong. Your turbo exhaust wheel spins from the exhaust gases that the engine produces. Since it is connected to the compressor wheel at the front of the turbo, this sucks more air in. The more gas you give it, the faster it spins, sucking in more air. SO There are 2 parts. 1 is the gas going out of the turbo and 2 is the air getting sucked in by the turbo. Wastegate is used to CONTROL the amount of boost your engine sees. At a set boost level (set by the pressure of the wastegate spring) the wastegate flap will start to open and vent some of the gases. Then it will be open enough to vent x amount of gas so that your engine only sees X amount of boost. If you had no wastegate, when you accelerate, the gas from the engine would go through the turbos exhaust wheel which in turn would spin faster and faster meaning the compressor wheel at the front will spin just as fast, sucking in more and more air and the engine would get more and more pressure in it (boost) until it goes bang. Wastegate is basically just that. A waste gate. It is a gate that opens and wastes some of the energy (heat/gas) that the engine has produced in to the exhaust system, preventing it from going through the turbine wheel. By doing so, it controls the speed at which this wheel turns and therefore controlling the amount of boost your engine sees. When you come off the gas to change gears, the wastegate slams shut as there is no boost there. At the same time, your throttle body valve slams shut as it is directly connected to your accelerator pedal via cable. At this instance, there is still air between the turbo compressor (front wheel) and the throttle body valve. Since there is no boost, there is vacuum. The job of the bov is to vent this out of that location. Vacuum causes the bov piston to open and release the air. Some bovs vent it out completely to atmosphere making psshh noise.. and some vent it back in to the inlet pipe between the air filter and turbo compressor wheel. This prevents the flutter sound from happening on gear changes. So a bov is used to vent air that is in between the turbo and engine And A wastegate is used to control the amount of boost your engine sees

what a small world hey Brendan. I buy a car from you, then you go buy a car which I owned about 6 years ago.. LOL.. I had that car registered with those seats and harnesses. Yes the suspension is damn hard. But if you get that 4wd working again, it does turn pretty well.. Front brakes are from a VL turbo just in case you need to replace bits. It has no cat. And when I had it, it was running on SUPER . The haltech has been repaired before. It had a crack in the board. I hope it’s been tuned since then cause it had a few problems after about 20 minutes of driving. The injectors when I had them were some bosch items which were same as some 944 turbo Porsche. It had no bov The turbo is a stock ihi rbh5 hi-flowed. Clutch was a 5 puck ceramic button clutch. I can ask my mate if he still has the roll cage for it if you like. But it was a proper rally purpose cage.

I doubt VERY much that your stock CAST IRON manifold has a hole in it. I bet my least used testicle that the leak is from one of 3 gaskets. The gasket between the manifold and block The gasket between manifold and turbo The gasket between turbo and dump pipe Costs for gaskets are $50 (this one is a guess) $20 $20 Cost to actually change them are dependant on how much your mechanic charges per hour. Expect about 2 hours.

The only time I went to wakefield, they had a group of gen 1 swift gti’s for one of those track days where they give you a car and an instructor in a track car. They were stripped and caged. And they were screaming. Failing that.. 86-88 corolla 1.6L twin cam. Any gen Starlet turbo you can buy for the price. I think the Gen1 (88 model) starlet is about 750kg.. Look like this.. Gen 2 – 850kg? 90-95 model) Gen 3? – 900kg? 96 - ?? model They have 100kw stock. Whiteline have a suspension kit for it that I believe SK from here helped put together.. $5K on the motor will have it running 12’s so imagine it on a track.(that money gets you turbo, cooler, pump, injectors, ecu and tune.) Strip the interior and it’s even lighter. Brakes can be upgraded from a celica gt4. but at the weight it is, you won’t need to.

well well well.. looky what we have here.. I owned this car in a former life.. My mate bought this off the guy who was rallying it. Took it to MRT and they removed the restrictor and roll cage and tuned the haltech properly. Came out with 120fwkw. Then I bought it off him. Back then it had a switch to put it to 4wd.. Actually it still does. In the pic where you can see the pedals, in the centre console where the radio would be, there is a little toggle switch with a blue light under it. When flicked, once the blue light came on it would be 4wd. Back then it had a locked rear diff and “very” limited slip front diff. Had a purpose built gearbox and was tough as nails. Had a hydrolic handbrake and the rear was stripped. engine was completely rebuilt with forged goodies and heavy duty valve springs for constant rev limiting.. it seems that engine is gone in those pics.. I had that carpet in there laid. Once in 4wd, you could launch the thing on the limiter and it would just absolutely fly off the mark. Good times, good time.. Anyway, I’ve sent an email to my mate who bought it off the original rally guy. See what he thinks. Here is what it used to look like back in the day of ownership by me and my mate before me.

roy you love that clip.. hahahaha but I do watch the whole clip each time you post it..

Sick.. You’ll fit in here just fine bro.

YES. It is a DIRECT bolt on. Unbolt stocker, replace with the R34 one. On the R32, one of the end tanks are on a different angle and it needs mods to fit that. But for the r33 and stagea, it fits straight on. PAUL - SK had stated previously that the R34 smic was used in his R32 with the rb20 at 220rwkw. He did have some temps that he posted here. have a search for a thread with R34 intercooler and SK in the search options from a few months ago.

Just called my local Nissan.. Village Nissan 425 Elizabeth Ave Redcliffe, QLD, 4020 (07)3883 0900 While he was looking up the part number that CUBES posted a picture of *15208-H8911AU*, he was making small talk about what I do for work. When I told him I worked for QPS he made a joke and said “Oh I better give you a discount so you don’t send your work mates here aye” Anyway, he ended up giving me a discount anyway.. He can supply them for $7.70 I’ll head on over to see him this Saturday. If there are other QLD’ers that would be interested in the future, or now I guess, I might have a chat to him and see if he can do this for this price all the time for the car club.

no need to be snappy. Why don’t you find out the cost of postage to 4509 then? You’re the one looking to sell. I made an offer which was what you wanted for the cooler but for you to pay for the postage of what.. $10 - $20? Find out what it is to post to 4509 and let me know.

it's the one with the picture of the R32.. it's installed.. mate.. I will take the supra cooler if you include postage to Brisbane postcode 4509 in that $70 PM me if you like.

pending payment means still a chance it will fall through. If it does, I’ll take it.

SLIDINGPERFORMANCE from these forums (slide) $900 hiflowed turbo that bolts straight back on.

so what do people with auto's do when circuit racing.. I think ABO BOB has seen a few circuits in his R34. so when comming to a corner and you are on the brakes, you don't bother shifting the auto to do SOME engine braking?

Internet is a wonderful place. So many different forums for all kinds of things. Anyway, here is something I came across on a barge forums.. I mean Soarer forum.. Hope you got some time and money on your hands.. But once you are done, you’ll be able to see that bit of chicken you got between your front teeth there.. http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/messages...html?1153124760

Hi, Few questions regarding R33 4 door sedans. 1.) Is the suspension from the R33 coupe a direct swap? 2.) Is the exhaust from the R33 coupe a direct swap? 3.) Is there a weight difference between the coupe and the sedan? Cheers