TTT

All you auto drivers… I’ve got some auto trans questions for you all. Does anyone here downshift when slowing down? As in, foot on brake, put it in 3, then 2 on the auto shifter. Does this cause strain on the box/gears? Does this cause more heat? For those of you with the upgraded valve body in their auto box… If it’s in drive, I hear that the up-shift speed/feel depends on how much gas you are giving it. So if just cruising along, the shifts are nice and smooth and if you are getting up it, the shifts are hard and fast. Does it effect the shift at all if you were to say use the gear to slow down the car and say you have it in 2 while in the corner and you plant it, the revs go up and you just slip it in D while still gassing it… does it still shift like it should or does this confuse things for the ecu and it’s shift points? What if any aftermarket trans coolers are you lot using? Where is it mounted? What did it cost? Is it a DIY kinda job? Anyone got a DIY gearbox oil change instructions or is it best to just buy your oil and take it to a shop who has a hoist and pump? Anyone using Castrol gearbox oil? Which one? How many litres? Cheers

Have you done or had done a compression check on the engine?

just to question everyone with the same problem. 1.) do you have the correct heat range spark plugs? For those guys with gt30’s and what not, have you tried a $25 set of NGK BCPR7ES-8 (the 7 is the colder heat range,, stock is BCPR6ES which is good enough for mild mods like anything using stock turbo) and the -8 is the 0.8mm gap. Even try 0.7mm.. I’ve heard of some people going as little as 6.5mm at high power levels. 2.) Have you taped up the coil packs? It’ll cost you nothing but 30 minutes of your time and you can be sure that the coil packs are not arcing out and making you lose spark. Yes some of you have said you’ve replaced a couple of them but at idle they might read fine on a multi meter, but under load at hi revs and boost, it’s a different world for them. Just tape them up to be sure. You got nothing to lose. 3.) Those of you with AFM still in use… Clean them and resolder them I keep repeating myself on this topic but it seems that they are logical things to check/do first. Here is the thread in which I posted more details for something similar. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=122908&hl Post 5

why would a belt make noise? If it fits in the exact way a Nissan belt fits, then why would it make noise? I would have thought that if there was any whining noise from the timing belt, it would be due to the tensioners not being replaced during the service and the new tight belt puts a strain on them. I’d think it’s more of a problem than a bonus.

Here is a reply I prepared earlier on FFF. http://forums.fastfours.com.au/viewtopic.p...e8a757ed084a8a9 (I’m on there as TTT and have the same avatar as here..) End of Flutter related threads.. Cheers

FYI. r33 gtr wheels are 17x9. no 8

*twidling thumbs while r31nismoid makes his way over here...*

FINALLY.. it broke.. well done..

castrol edge 10-60W yes!! got in before it gets locked. LOL

If you’re going to quote the man at least get it right dude.

Latest ZOOM has a great little article regarding crank case pressure and the ins and outs of oil catch cans and oil breather cans. There was also a thread here recently where someone had a similar issue after putting on a new can and using wrong size hoses. I think that thread started off saying “hi flow turbo blown” or something (because of the white smoke) Even after fixing, there was a bit of smoke as the extra pressure had pushed oil past the turbo seals and so forth and was burning in the exhaust for a bit. Hope that is all you have done and that nothing is broke.

Google HICAS This is the 4ws system on the skylines Not all had them, most do. They were an option when new. Coil packs What makes you think that you’re aren’t working. Search this forum for 2 things 1.) coil+packs+tape or taping 2.) splitfire You’ll get all the answers you want.

Called compressor surge. Search for it and sift your way through the flutter threads, and you will find explanation of this and possible solutions. I’ve heard having aftermarket bovs on a gtr sometimes causes this. Stock gtr bovs plumbed back as is from factory seems to fix issue. If you have stock bovs already, then I’m stumped. cheers

What does Nissan say about 15 year old engines with “apparent” 110,000kms on it? Also, does Nissan say that when running a turbo capable of almost double the factory turbo’s air flow ability, still requires the same sort of lubrication? AND, does Nissan say that this 15 year old engine will have the same condition rings, seals, bearings as it did back in 1991 when it produced 160kw with 10psi of boost running through it, even though now it has 110,000kms (apparently), using a big turbo, much more boost/air flow/pressure. NO. Lets not get in to an oil sh*t fight. But lets think logically.. we are men after all and should be this way from birth. Machine gets used, it has wear and tear. Machine is made to run harder/faster, it has wear and tear. Machine gets a bigger pump on it, making it work even harder, hold more pressure, it has wear and tear on it. The addition of the turbo, boost, revs, pressure, etc…. all add to the heat as well. Nissans own mineral 7.5 – 30W does not cut it… Surely you can see this. It’s logic. Have you actually asked Nissan what oil they recommend for your 15 year old high km motor running substantial more power and boost? I doubt very much they will say 7.5 – 30w mineral blend oil. You said yourself that you change the oil every 5000kms and have not seen anything like this before. Then you say this new turbo has been on there for 5000kms and this oil change it has. 1+1 = 2 man.. you added the turbo and upped the power and the oil did not cut it and as said, bearings have been damaged. On a side note, I hope nothing is broken and it was just stuff that was in your sump from something before and the new found pressure from this turbo has got it loose and made it come out with the oil. On an even better side note, CAPITAN RB20 ROY on these forums will tell you over and over that a rb20 short block costs $400 these days. So if your breaks, you are up for about $1000 to get new bottom end, engine out and fit to head and engine back in and good to go. Hopefully, when it comes to that, you will reconsider your choice in oils. Everyone will have there preferred brand.. Mine is Castrol EDGE fully synthetic 10-60W Next time you go in to supercheap or something, just have a look at the back of the oils and compare them. Good luck and I hope this isn’t a costly experience for you.

*Slaps CUBES and LINKS 3 Stooges style* LOL

I think you missed my point. I made the reference to the mines gtr to show that even a car with around 600hp was still using a stock GTR airbox with their own enlarged intake snorkel. This MAD082 guy is blabbering that a pod…. No an un-shielded pod is better than a pod filter in a box or partition which is better than a panel filter in the stock air box. His reasoning is that it can suck in more air.. wether it’s hot or not does not matter cause it’s more air and the intercooler will fix the temp issue. BULLSH*T The fact is, lower temps means more power. Before the cooler, after cooler, in the plenum.. whatever. Cooler means more power is capable. People on here have over 250rwkw in GTST’s or GTT’s with stock air box and intake snorkel and rubber duct from afm to turbo. People have close to 300rwkw in gtr’s with stock air box and intake and rubber duct from afms to turbos. I see no reason to replace the stock Nissan skyline air box unless you have over those sorts of rough figures. And even if you do, the mines GTR factory air box MODDED with new CAI snorkel allowing enough air flow for 600hp is good enough, I’m sure you can do the same for your car. R32 gtst’s have the duct in the bottom half, then the filter above it, and then the afm pipe on top of that. Once you get a fmic, get some 3 inch PVC pipe and some bends, duct it from the front bar (in the duct where the stock smic opening is, drill a 3 inch hole under your factory air box and duct it up. You will never run out of fresh cold air in your air box. R33 gtst’s may have a little more difficulty as they have the intake on the top of the box, then the filter then the afm pipe under that. So you would have to design another CAI to maybe pipe in to the other side of the air box (left side has factory snorkel). I just think that a pod filter is not required for most people. You want fully sick induction sound bro?, this post is not for you. You want the performance without the look at me noise and hassles from cops for being illegal?, then put a hi flow panel filter in your stock box and maybe work out a new CAI to it.

You are all wrong. Mad082 is correct. Un shielded pod is better.. I might just ring up MINES factory and let them know that they should quickly bolt up a $40 MONZA pod filter to their R34 gtr which uses a stock air box with after market duct and filter at the moment. Oh and get rid of the duct as it’s not necessary with the pod there. This will give them more power and possibly a WHOLE second off their time at the time attack trials they do.

probe was jammed in to the pod. Basically it was sitting in front of the AFM mesh just like the afm probe sits in the afm. Don’t go around giving advice on things when you are going by your own minds theory. And don’t compare the majority of skyline owners to 2000hp drag cars. Most people on here have street cars which they occasionally take to the drags or tracks.

If that was my $16,000 investment, I would do the following during your service. 1.) New fuel filter 2.) Injectors cleaned/ flow tested, and fitted with the highest flowing one to above cylinder 6 then next on no. 5 etc. 3.) Remove AFM and clean it. 4.) New spark plugs 5.) Hard wire in your stock fuel pump so it gets fuel voltage constantly 6.) Nismo fuel pressure regulator 7.) SAFC and tune. Cost: $30 – Filter $100?? – clean and refit injectors $0 – AFM clean $30 – NGK BCPR6ES-8 (if they don’t have the -8’s you can also use the -11’s but will have to re-gap them) $30 – hard wire the pump $150 – fuel pressure regulator direct fit to stock position $200 – SAFC $150 – Tune Boost to 10 psi and you’d be pretty happy for a while and the car will be safe. Oh – don’t think that the fuel pump will not die after 70,000kms.. They can go at anytime. I’d say it would be more common at about 100,000kms but you can never tell. My S14 had 116,000kms on it. I drove all the way from Sydney to coffs harbour. Not a single problem all the way there. Stopped at the hotel, idled for a minute, turned the car off to unload and check in. And that was it. It did not start back up. Pump just died once turned off and never came back. So it’s not like the pump will always die slowly… it could just stop instantly like flicking a light switch.

Man that is one of your most stupid posts.. and believe me.. you've made a few. you have no hard evidence of your claims. just your theory. then noobs on here believe it and take your word for it. Unlike you I did a little reasearch and tried and tested this little theory. R32 gtst rb20det. pod filter, no shield or box, just a duct from the front bar to the stock intercooler pipe hole which I enlaged to 3 inches.. I bought a Jay car digital temp gauge with probe. I tested it first with a glass of ice and then a glass of boiling water and it read correct. I then jammed this probe in to the pod filter and the display on my steering column. after a week of driving all sorts of conditions the results if I recal were like this. 60km/h on parramatta rd ambiant temp (R32's have an ambiant temp button) = 23 degrees digital display = 45 degrees 0km/h (stuck in traffic) amb = 25 filter = 60 100km/h on freeway towards west amb = 22 filter = 38 I then made up a partition with that heat shielded foam stuff from Clarks rubber basically partitioned the filter off from the engine (not a box.. just a partition) this made a pretty big difference when moving. 60km/h amb = 22 filter = 30 100km/h amb = 22 filter = 26 0km/h amb = 24 filter = 54 I then put the stock air box in. 4 bolts hold the box to the afm. I used 3 bolts and in the 4th hole I jammed the temp probe in. 60km/h amb = 19 air box = 21 100km/h amb = 18 air box = 18 0km/h amb = 22 air box = 26 so where is your test and results? just because you have a IC doesn't mean that it will do magic with the air going in. if it's cold air going in, th ic does a better job at cooling it. if the intake tamp is hot, the IC can only take so much of that heat off. Long story short, put your stock air box in. people have got over 250rwkw using them with a K&N type panel filter

(no subject) Inbox [email protected] to me More options 3:20 pm(5 hours ago) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=126587 http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turbo.htm gives you all the info you’ll need…

I could definitely tell the difference between the stock S14 (same as R33) wheels and the 17’s I had. The rears were 17x9 with 255’s on it. They weighed 22kg on the same bathroom scales. You could REALLY notice the difference as you take off in normal traffic. Almost feels like you have to rev a little higher or ride the clutch a little bit more to get the same sort of movement as with the stockers. I went to WSID with the 17’s and best I could do was 13.8 with the best 60’ being 1.9 And I still had the sub box in the boot. I then decided that the stockers or similar was the go. Bought a set of 16x7.5 300zx rims. They weighed the same as the s14 wheels. Was all excited about having another go at WSID but the car was stolen. I did however get to take it to wakefield. Before I went, I went to wakefield, I stripped the boot. Carpet and all. Stuck the 300zx wheels and had a good day out (as good as could be had on S15 factory suspension and my own factory S14 sway bars.. hahahaha) But with the boot empty and lighter wheels, the car was so much more nimble to drive around from stand still and when accelerating on a roll. You’re 17’s sound good. Get the smaller nuts and use those for sure.

Roy buying an rb25de and selling everything but the head? Could only mean one thing… Finally given in to the rb30det bug.. LOL

cool. If it were me, and I had standard size brakes that could still use the 16’s, I would do one of 2 things. 1 – 300zx wheels. They are 16x7.5 instead of the 16x6.5 of the stock gtst wheels (both r32 and r33). 225’s fit better on the 300 wheels than the gtst wheels. 2. – r32 GTR wheels. 16x8, 225’s are a perfect fit. They are forged alloy or something, they are lighter and tougher. if you want 17's, look in to ENKEI wheels. they seem to make some nice light wheels. I'ce always likes the RP01 model Enkie wheels. basic design and very light.

GTR has 2 bovs. They are mounted on a single larger pipe (bit smaller than the intercooler piping) and are located in the drivers side kinda in the front air dam.. So if you are looking at a GTR front on, you will see the big space in the middle for the intercooler and the smaller space on your left (drivers side when looking front on) is where you will see the bovs. The plumbing for it is like a Y pipe. 2 hoses join to become one and the one pipe goes all the way over to the intake pipe which is from the air box to the turbo’s. Why it has 2 bovs? Not sure. I doubt it has anything to do with 2 turbo’s. My guess is it has something to do with the fact that the rb26 has individual throttles. It seems people who change the bovs to atmo ones on rb26’s have all sorts of problem with idle and turbo surge etc..