TTT

Am I the only one thinking a bigger problem may come from this? If the COMPRESSOR wheel has gone, it is surely going to follow the path of the air.. through the cooler and in to the engine. Lets say it hit the cooler, and some bits went through it and ended up in your engine.. You’re game driving it around with bits in there..

on the bathroom scale, they were 16kg each with 225/50/16 tyres back when I was wondering the same thing. Without tyres? No idea.

How about turn the boost down. You have not said anything about an aftermarket front mounted intercooler, or anything about aftermarket computer. That black smoke you see means you are running rich which means it hasn’t been tuned to run that sort of boost/air flow. Turn it back down to about 10psi for now until you have sorted out some form of cooling and tuning.

Could only offer ridiculously low offer and would rather not insult you....

If you look at this link, it seems the rb25 and rb20 pfc is not that different and you can do the work yourself. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=124463 rb25 pfc and hand controller can be had for $960 in group buy section.

how many km’s? what year model? And is that colour green or blue?? Can’t tell from the pics.. maybe my monitor.. Anyway, what is the colour?

auto electrician? What a waste. You had sparks plugs in there when you had the crap bov which caused overfueling and coughing and spluttering. They are fouled. Take them out, buy a new set of spark plugs (NGK BCPR6ES-8 (if they don’t have the -8’s you can also use the -11’s but will have to re-gap them)), put them in and it should be all good. Cost you about $4 each plug.

When did I ever say WD40? I have said “Degreaser” many times. When I did mine, I did it with degreaser then hosed it out (low water pressure), then shook it dry, then dried it out properly with hair dryer.

bahahaha... I am your elder mate.. in probably more ways than 1. it's funny. I joined here when I got my silver R32 then I sold it and bought a VR4, then a S14, then a Barina (hahaha.. yes after the 200 was pinched), then the R32 gts4 sedan, now no car at the moment and I'm still here.. LOL back on topic though.. plugs and coils Mr Reds...

you've been here long enough to realise that it is "NOT" common sense on these here good forums...

I lost count on the number of times I posted the same thing. As Dave with the bad hair up there said, probably the coils and/or spark plugs. It might be cheap to go on a dyno, but it’s even cheaper to check the coils and plugs. You have yourself a 17 year old car basically. It has an engine that has been heated and cooled almost every single day for 17 years. The plastic and rubber bits in the engine bay are bound to be brittle. So do this easy/cheap possible fix. I personally think that everyone on SAU (who doesn’t have after market coil packs) should do this as a preventative measure. Here.. Post number 5 in this thread.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=122908&hl= I will do this on my next skyline the weekend I get it even if it doesn’t have any misfire/stutter/hesitation problems. And when I do, I will take some damn photo’s on how to and post it here.

go R33.. R32's are just crap and seem to cost more than R33's to buy. R33 weighs 1360kg R32 weighs 1290kg for the extra 70kg you get the better engine, better gearbox. more aftermarket support.. they are common cause they are good. just do a carsales search for them between 13-16K.. there are plenty. also.. Dude. Did you recently buy this? And if so, was it from Lane Cove? Cheers

FMIC or SMIC?

what is the new sound that it makes? Just like the stock sound but louder? If so, that is fine. If the noise is more like a fluttering sound, then it’s not venting.. As hard as it is to describe the sound via a keyboard I’ll give it a go.. Does it go.. Wwsshhhhhh Or does it go. Prrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr LOL.. If it’s the first, that’s fine. Anyway, I’ll add one more little thing.. That stock bov bod, when done on an RB fitted with a FMIC seems to cause flutter instead of venting properly. With stock side mount it works as it should. Boost does come on quicker as it is not circulating ANY of the air so the transition between off boost and on boost is more instant. Hence that quicker spool feeling. So what does it do?

R33’s can’t get REMAPS (easily) and Maybe you missed it..

http://www.justjap.com/parts_nexhaust.htm 7th one down Details X-Force Mild Steel Exhaust System for R32 GTS-T Full 3 Inch turbo back system Price $699 Pic

Here is a picture of the best plenum ever made for the rb20det. It will handle more power than you will likely make on an RB20det. Not sure if your friend can copy it or not though.. It’s taken the guy who made that one in the picture a LOOOOOOOOOOOOONNGGGGGGGG time to design and test and so forth. Good luck

AAC valve cleaning DIY thread… http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=110431 Lots of other fun things to do on that section of the forum too.

no.. there should not be ANY plate that completely blocks it off. remove that blanking plate. it should be your bov, the thin gasket to help it seal and then bolted to your intercooler pipe

So you got one of these yes? And you want to know if it sounds like one of these yes? The answer is NO. The one you “bought” goes psshhh The one you “want” goes squeek. To block the plumback line, you can usually fit a coke bottle cap over it and use the clamp that is already there to clamp it on. Or go to bunnings and get a pack of rubber boots that go on the feet of kitchen chairs. Also, I think a D size battery fits in to the rubber hose on that return pipe, which you would then clamp in with the clamp already there. Anyway, all that said and done, you be back to using the stocker soon enough so this would have all been a waste of time and money. Cheers

if you have a FMIC and do that mod to your stock bov, it will flutter and not blow off as it should.. here is my response.. unbolt the bov from that adapter under it and bolt the bov directly on to the spot on your car. There should also be a thin gasket between the bov and plate where you bolt it to the intercooler pipe (near the throttle body) on your car. When you separate the bov from that adapter in that pic, take a look at the bottom of it.. there should be a small hole next to the big one. Make sure it is “NOT” blocked. Once you bolt it back on your car, connect the vacuum hose on top on that little nipple, connect the large hose to the front of the bov and tighten your clamps. Should all be good now and no more flutter. You’ll find your car will run smoother now too.

quick question... lets say you hav no room or tools to do this. How much would it cost (parts and labour) for a drive in drive out job. and to be more specific, how much when doing it for an R33 gtst? throw in a $600 clutch too for example.

Most common problem for RB25det EVA!!! A quick search would have no doubt found the cause/causes for this on your car quite easily. Misfire under boost thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...?showtopic=1456 Anyway, I’ll post here so that it’s in one thread Most common cause for the RB25det misfire/stutter/what ever you want to call it, at the 5000 – 5500rpm range is that it is at it’s maximum load. This causes any small problems in the electrical system to show it’s head. Things you can do on the cheap or even free are as follows: 1.) take out your coil packs and tape them up with electrical tape. Use quality tape, not the 6 for $2 type. I did 3 tight layers. When you take them out, you will see that from the actual COIL down towards the spark plug is a rubber boot. I started at the base of the rubber boot (spark plug end) and wrapped the tape tightly all the way up to the coil and back down and back up. Each rotation goes HALF over the last one. So 3 layers.. up, down, back up. This prevents any hair line cracks that may be there from ARCING out any of the spark. 2.) spark plugs. If they are old, replace them with NGK BCPR6ES-8 (if they don’t have the -8’s you can also use the -11’s but will have to re-gap them) Make sure they are gapped down to 0.8mm (you will need a feeler tool if you don’t already have one – they cost about $30 from what I can remember) If your plugs are new or newish (I’d say spark plugs are only good for about 20,000kms) make sure they are gapped to 0.8mm. Put the spark plugs in and tighten properly, put the newly taped coil packs back in. 3.) Take off your AFM (Air flow meter – it is bolted to your air filter box or pod filter if you have one of those) Get a can of degreaser. Spray the INSIDE of the unit.. you will see a little knob in there with wires… make sure you spray them good. Now rinse out under the tap (not too high pressure). Repeat the above degreaser and wash step if not totally clean. Once you rinse it, you will need to dry it. I used a hair dryer on it till it was completely dry. Put it back on your car and plug it all in. Good to go. Basically you’ve done a simple service which may fix your problem, and it has cost you nothing if you have all the tools or a few bucks if you needed to get parts.

I know this has been found now and all but I have a question. When you say chatswood, Mowbray rd area.. I just want to make sure of something. Is this the building on the corner of Mowbray and “I won’t say” street? The same building where the chick with her NA R32 with resprayed Black paint with sparkles through it got pinched about 2 weeks before this? Like I said in that thread, I lived on Murray street for 2 years. I had my S14 pinched from under my unit where it can’t be seen from the road. I used to go for a walk every evening with the wife around the area and we would walk past your building. I always used to see your car and the chicks r32 out front and would always hope I could see the owner of them both and warn them. Anyway, I’m glad your one came back to you. Be careful, the north shore seems to be the new place for the scum of the earth to go to in order to obtain new parts.

Dude.. You are getting so far ahead of yourself it’s not funny. Stop, take a breath and do some searches on these forums. Firstly, you have an essentially stock car. So you really should go through the stages of modifications to make sure all is well and you don’t end up lunching an rb25. Now. What mods to do first… Save you some searching time as it gets a little cluttered here.. And I feel sorry for you a little cause you seem to have come across someone who has now obviously ripped you off and gave you bad advice. Start here.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=45218 Just like with everything in life, you need to have a goal. We seem to have found that out now. You want a “quick street car” I agree with NIZMOID that a quick street car is up to about 250rwkw… Achievable, streetable and most likely reliable. See if you can get your money back for that turbo. If you can great. If not, sell it on these forums to someone who can make some use of it. If you want to know what mods will net you about 250rwkw, have a look at the rb25 dyno thread and see what mods people have and what power they make.. Here.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=55845 This should be a good starting point for you. Then continue on here.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=66556 Good luck